DAF 44 White

[galaxy904]

This is my new DAF, im 16 and hope to have it ready for october, just a couple of problems with it.

1. the timing is out
2. the clutch has gone and grinds alot
3. the exhaust is falling apart.

is there any advice you could give me on how to get parts and what to do with them?

[veeruk]

So that is where Vixie has ended up. When I looked after her the clutch was sticking already. You would need to get the engine out and investigate as I think that the drum might be damaged too. Exhaust would be one for Danny in Holland as I don't know of any for sale here in the UK. I am in Luton so not a million miles away from you. Let me know how you get on and if you need any help. My name is Alex by the way.

[spunkymonkey]

Is the whole exhaust falling apart or is the front box (the one that goes across the car just behind the engine) still ok? If that's sound then you can replace the pipe from there back with plain pipe (about £10 a length from CES) and not really notice any difference in noise apart from a slightly nicer sound at idle

Timing is no problem, the basic setting is done "static" on these so all you need is an 11mm(??) socket and an extension to loosen the distributor clamp. I'm sure someone on here can provide a picture of the correct timing marks for a 44 engine.

Clutch is a bit more of a problem but, as Alex says, get the engine out and investigate. It's a good way to get to know your Daf anyway (and discover how easy they are to work on!). Once it's out, if you're looking to be on road by October, you have plenty of time to work out what to do about any parts needed - your old shoes might be ok for re-lining if they haven't been ground away too badly.

[spunkymonkey]

Oh, and welcome to Daf ownership ;D

[33grinder]

Hello and welcome to the forum!

Yes, I remember Vixie being on eBay and I forwarded Essex DAFs contact details on case we could help as at the time she was for sale in South London. Nice to see her again though.

You mention timing. Are ignition components are in order - points, condensor, cap, plugs, leads etc - have you checked for spark from the coil and to the plugs?

Assuming all in order there, it is sometimes a case of adjusting the dwell angle on the distibutor. I belive a large flat blade screwdriver will loosen the clamp and with her idling you can make small movements to listen for when it runs smoothest. Only small increments but perhaps blipping the accellerator then letting it idle again (make sure the car's in neutral! ).

As for grinding, I have the clubhouse keys as Mac says! What are the symptoms? Do you have drive and is it both directions? Can you change gear with the engine running or need you switch off the engine first? Clutch problems are remarkably common but well documented here and you'll have lots of good advice.

As for the exhaust, where is it shot? If it's the straight exhaust pipe then you should find something to fit, if it's heat exchangers or front silencer then your options are to buy new/reconditioned (expensive) or beg/buy used and get the welder out!

Do keep us updated with progress!

[galaxy904]

It can drive in both directions, but sometimes when in neutral it grinds, and i have to turn the engine off too change gear

[33grinder]

Yes, ditto what John says. Neutral is only to be used for maintenance work. Otherwise your 44 should always be started in gear. When in neutral the engine revs are a little higher and the clutch shoes start to drag. So when you try to change gear you'll experience grinding and crunching. Eventually the rubbers at either end of the prop-shaft will give in, and prop shafts are quite hard to come by.

Sometimes when changing between forward and reverse (and vice versa) the gear cogs will not mesh. In that case a slight blip of throttle should put her into gear whilst you are pulling/pushing against the lever but again, don't be too hard on her. If you can't get the gear then best to switch off the engine and listen for everything to come to a halt (you should hear the clutch drum spinning to a stop when you switch off, should take a few seconds). Also check your inlet manifold - is it sound or is there any rot allowing extra air in? Is the latter then it may be that the carb has been enrichened to counter a lean fuel/air mix and the revs bought up. Above +/- 900rpm the clutch starts to engage.

Talking of the clutch drum, have a listen to it - are there any rattles coming from it? The clutches are not your regular pressure plate type, they are of the centrifugal type and you'll have individual components - 8 clutch shoes and four springs plus a selection of washers and clutch replacement will involve the clutch shoes being relined if needed, springs renewed if needed and then the clutch components built up.

Without hearing what she's doing it's hard to pinpoint what the problem could be, however if there's any doubt about the clutch then the only way to know for sure is to pull the engine and check the clutch and propshaft - not too bad a job for the competent home mechanic with a selection of spanners and a trolley jack.

Good luck and let us know how you get on.

[Richard DAF Webmeister]

Gosh - more young blood! I remember when I got my first DAF and joined the club all those years ago - I was young then - about the same age!

Anyway, pretty much ditto ditto.

The club does supply/can get exhausts and I believe has some sort of arrangement re exchange clutch shoes. Pop a note to Steve Bidwell - details on home page of the main www.dafownersclub.co.uk website. (I think he parcelled up an exhaust to some far flung corner of the world recently)

Rear bumper - not a big issue I would think. I bet Essex/Derbyshire et al will have some!

Good luck and well done for taking such an interest.

[veeruk]

Just a word of advice, when Vixie was here (your 44, that is her name known by the club members) she could idle happily in gear. However, the clutch would sometimes grab and make the car creep forward and set off. I suspect the usual that the linings have come away and are wedging themselves between the drum and the other shoes. Also, be careful as the throttle cable used to stick which meant that she goes to full revs and shoots forward, not recommended if there is a wall in front of you. I'm not sure if that has been fixed in the meantime which I would seriously doubt.

[33grinder]

OK, I've just spoken with Matt.

He thinks we can sort you out with a bumper and we do help owners with re-lining clutch shoes. You just send us your shoes with payment including postage and there is a company near us that does the relining. We send the shoes back to you all relined. You just pay the postage and for the relining. There's nothing in it for us - we do it from the goodness of our hearts! ;D

We can possibly help with a front wing too.

PM me a contact number and I'll ask Matt to call you next weekend when he is at the parts barn.

Pete.

[galaxy904]

Sunday, i plan to take the engine out, so i can see what needs doing. any tips?

[spunkymonkey]

Yes - don't try pulling the engine without removing the front suspension tie bars first (the ones that go at an angle from the bottom of the suspension forward to the front engine support bar). You can remove it with them in place but it's a lot harder than it looks and undoing the tie bars at the other end will save a lot of cursing and (probably) a lot of time in the end.

Especially if it's mid evening and raining at the time ;D

[galaxy904]

my only concern is that, i wont get it back in, ive got my friend to help me but his experiance is mostly with minis

[33grinder]

Ah, you'll be fine! The hardest part is getting the bonnet back on afterwards.

They are a peach to work on and just slide out on a trolley jack. When you pull the engine the prop will probably come with it-let it. There should be a spring at the other end of the prop - try not to loose that!

[galaxy904]

wait, so the engine doesnt get lifted out of the top of the car?

[spunkymonkey]

No. Remove the bonnet, the front bumper (undo the brackets from the car and leave them fixed to the bumper) and the grille panel behind it.

Disconnect the exhaust from the heat exchangers (3 bolts either side - awkward) and all the wires, cables, vacuum pipes and fuel pipe that go between the engine and the rest of the car.

Undo the suspension tie-bars from the suspension struts and put a trolley jack under the engine (about where the oil filler is) so it just takes some weight.

Undo the rear engine mounts and the front mounting bar from the body (leave them all attached to the engine)

Roll the engine out forwards on the jack.

[galaxy904]

If i get the clutch shoes and take some pics of them?

[33grinder]

Then we'll know whether they need relining. We'll also be able to asses the springs and 'R' clips, the other components - and not forgetting the prop shaft of course.

Don't worry, many if us have been there ourselves - where do you think my nome-de-plume comes from?

You'll get plenty if help and advice here.

[veeruk]

When you have the engine out and the drum off then take a good, detailed photo of it. This will help us look for any faults but also you then have an example to fall back on when you put it back together. Be aware that the springs have to go back where they were as they are different strength ones and do different things when the engine is running. Failure to do so will result in you having to take the engine out again and do it all over.

[Patrick]

Was she (the clutch) repaired after her trip to France? Can't find any more than/the later threads after a quick look.

[galaxy904]

The person i purchased it off said that it still had the clutch problem

[veeruk]

Did you buy it from somebody in London?

[galaxy904]

Yes

[33grinder]

It's a shame the vendor did not pass you Essex DAFs contact details as requested - we might have her up and running by now...

[pauldaf44]

Hmmm I wouldn't rely on the clutch springs being on correct in the first place as having been through a few owners recently I think it fair to assume that there is a good chance somebody may have tried to fix it and ballsed it up.

As said before take photos and we will tell you if its right.

A couple of points.
Joe is right with the tie bars undo them at the hub end as they are a nightmare to realign otherwise. Also with a 44 engine when refitting it is usefull to have a bottle jack as well as the trolley jack so that you can adjust the angle of the motor for aligning the front Mounting bar/brace.

Re fitting the bonnet having 2 or 3 people makes things a lot easier but it is possible single handed. The trick is such.

Place bonnet roughly in position and lock it down at the back. If you then release the catch the bonnet will be aligned and provided your carefull you can lift the front edge of the bonnet and get the front bolts in a couple of turns by hand. Then lift the bonnet and do it up tight.

Paul

p.s when you disconnect the choke and throttle be carefull not too loose the teeny weeny nuts for the throttle or the little circlip that goes with the choke cable. You wont be happy if you do