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Post by Patrick on Dec 9, 2012 16:06:02 GMT
Splendid stuff! My Grandmother - who changed her DAF regularly tried out a 66 in 1974/5 and bought an N reg in that colour. She didn't like it though and for the P year traded back to a 44. I am fairly sure she'd had an orange 55 saloon not long before though. (That was the one that hit me in the face when I opened the boot when I shouldn't have! Boiiing!)
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33grinder
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Post by 33grinder on Dec 9, 2012 17:32:06 GMT
Great result John! She looks very clean indeed. The racks do suffer from a little play and it is usually due to the wearing of nylon bushes where the rack enters the column. If you ask Joe Horner (aka Spunkeymonkey) nicely he might make you a set on his lathe. It's a rack out and recondition job but not too bad. Otherwise I believe the column itself has some kind of felt cushioning where it is bracketed if the play is in the vertical plane.
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Post by andrejuan on Dec 9, 2012 17:56:26 GMT
Great result John! She looks very clean indeed. The racks do suffer from a little play and it is usually due to the wearing of nylon bushes where the rack enters the column. If you ask Joe Horner (aka Spunkeymonkey) nicely he might make you a set on his lathe. It's a rack out and recondition job but not too bad. Otherwise I believe the column itself has some kind of felt cushioning where it is bracketed if the play is in the vertical plane. Cheers Pete
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Post by dafdaffer on Dec 9, 2012 19:12:47 GMT
Well done that man looks good The speedo drives from the front wheel hub. (passenger side i think) it drives from the grease cup which sits on the bearing with a small square cut out and an e clip. just check that's on first, if not check the back of the binicle its easy to remove you just tug it forwards from the top. if its a cable fail then i should have one kicking around. the rack can be nipped up, its possible that its a nylon bush but you can try doing that first. remove the wire from the nuts at the base of the rack and slightly undo the bolts, then drive the wedge round a bit at a time until it feels tighter, not to much though, then just re tighten and put some more wire on. the front brake hoses can break up inside not letting the fluid return to the MS. other than that its working the pistons back and forth. hope that made sense. also do the blow test as the 66 is a blighter for diaphragms. paul
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Post by lincsmike on Dec 9, 2012 19:23:33 GMT
Hi Mate.. The 66 looks real good, am so pleased you got her, would have loved to have got her myself, but am quite tied up with sorting Dafs out at the mo,, keep up the good work. The speedo does drive from the left hand side front hub as Paul quite rightly stated,
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Post by andrejuan on Dec 15, 2012 16:19:45 GMT
Well done that man looks good The speedo drives from the front wheel hub. (passenger side i think) it drives from the grease cup which sits on the bearing with a small square cut out and an e clip. just check that's on first, if not check the back of the binicle its easy to remove you just tug it forwards from the top. if its a cable fail then i should have one kicking around. the rack can be nipped up, its possible that its a nylon bush but you can try doing that first. remove the wire from the nuts at the base of the rack and slightly undo the bolts, then drive the wedge round a bit at a time until it feels tighter, not to much though, then just re tighten and put some more wire on. the front brake hoses can break up inside not letting the fluid return to the MS. other than that its working the pistons back and forth. hope that made sense. also do the blow test as the 66 is a blighter for diaphragms. paul Thanks Paul I may call on you for a cable if it's US.
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Post by andrejuan on Dec 26, 2012 10:37:43 GMT
Update.............
Well they say a job takes as long as the time you have to do it.
So, in order to move things on a little, I have booked an MOT.
The object being, at worst I will have a priority list, at best I will have a ticket.
Plus, it will give me a deadline to stop me getting side-tracked and tinkering with less important jobs on the old girl.
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Post by Richard DAF Webmeister on Dec 29, 2012 14:08:54 GMT
All good stuff - coming along well.
I'm particularly impressed that the wheel appears to be inside the house!!
Thanks for the other info too.
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33grinder
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Post by 33grinder on Dec 29, 2012 23:00:54 GMT
Progress is progress John and glad to see it, am really looking forward to seeing this one in the tin - do say you'll visit us when she us back on the road! Am also looking forward to seeing the Wilson's 33 as much of the replacement front end came from the ED parts barn.
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on Jan 2, 2013 17:15:32 GMT
MOT day today, and I am a happy chappy. Start the search for bottom ball joints!!!! If the part is interchangeable with the 44 I have a brand new lower ball joint on my stock shelf at the moment.
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Post by andrejuan on Jan 2, 2013 17:38:19 GMT
MOT day today, and I am a happy chappy. Start the search for bottom ball joints!!!! If the part is interchangeable with the 44 I have a brand new lower ball joint on my stock shelf at the moment. Lets hope someone can tell us
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Post by andrejuan on Jan 3, 2013 16:36:50 GMT
MOT day today, and I am a happy chappy. Start the search for bottom ball joints!!!! If the part is interchangeable with the 44 I have a brand new lower ball joint on my stock shelf at the moment. I'll buy that from you if the offer is still there thanks. Simon also has one he thinks, so that is me sorted hopefully.
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Post by Nick the man with a daf.... on Jan 6, 2013 15:38:52 GMT
easiest way to confirm this is to undo the bleed nipple, if they move back easily with this slackened off then its deffo the flexis
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Post by Richard DAF Webmeister on Jan 9, 2013 20:56:14 GMT
Goodness me. I remember you telling me how averse you are to filler etc. So, all you have to do now is fit and paint.
Wooo!
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Post by dafdaffer on Jan 10, 2013 14:49:17 GMT
Brilliant. We're the old ones that bad?
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Post by andrejuan on Jan 10, 2013 16:12:10 GMT
Brilliant. We're the old ones that bad? No not that bad Paul. One was well perforated at the front with a little down the back spine. The other was perforated down the spine but very slight bubbling at the front. They are saveable, and there is a chance I may do that and save the rust free wings for later?? Depends how much other welding is needed.
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Post by andrejuan on Jan 11, 2013 14:50:07 GMT
Goodness me. I remember you telling me how averse you are to filler etc. So, all you have to do now is fit and paint. Wooo! Mmm, yes Richard I do have a downer on filler. That is a reflection on my age though, I know fillers have come on in leaps and bounds since I last used them. In my day they cracked and lifted after only a short time. These days (I am told) good fillers are equal to metal in suitable areas, if applied correctly. I will need some filler somewhere no doubt, but couldn't pass over the chance of two rust free wings.
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Post by andrejuan on Jan 16, 2013 18:46:42 GMT
UPDATE The old girl now has an MOT !!!! I will be taxing her in the morning and then spending the day driving her to check all is well. I can now get started on the bodywork.
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Post by Richard DAF Webmeister on Jan 16, 2013 21:04:47 GMT
Wayhay - well done!
I knew it would happen.
You'll soon be charging the battery as you belt around!
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Post by dafdaffer on Jan 18, 2013 7:47:25 GMT
Well done that was quick work, ps do you still need a cable? I've not had chance to get a look as I have been emptying the garage.
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Post by andrejuan on Jan 18, 2013 9:49:59 GMT
Well done that was quick work, ps do you still need a cable? I've not had chance to get a look as I have been emptying the garage. Thanks Paul I will let you know, I have the inner, it's the outer that I may need. As it's not an MOT item it wasn't top priority. The stumbling block at the moment is getting the old retaining nut out of the hub, it sounds simple but just will not budge
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mattsdafs
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Post by mattsdafs on Jan 21, 2013 7:34:11 GMT
John... The nut is plastic and breaks very easily,be very gentle...the cable will probably pull out,try to change just the inner cable,leave the outer in place ...good luck
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Post by andrejuan on Jan 21, 2013 9:23:32 GMT
John... The nut is plastic and breaks very easily,be very gentle...the cable will probably pull out,try to change just the inner cable,leave the outer in place ...good luck OOP'S too late !!! The plastic nut has snapped already. I need to get it off to get the broken bit of inner cable out. Are the plastic nuts readily available, or is that a stoopid question?
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33grinder
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Post by 33grinder on Jan 21, 2013 13:02:47 GMT
OOP'S too late !!! The plastic nut has snapped already. I need to get it off to get the broken bit of inner cable out. Are the plastic nuts readily available, or is that a stoopid question? Hen's teeth cast in rocking horse poo...
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Post by andrejuan on Jan 21, 2013 14:39:02 GMT
OOP'S too late !!! The plastic nut has snapped already. I need to get it off to get the broken bit of inner cable out. Are the plastic nuts readily available, or is that a stoopid question? Hen's teeth cast in rocking horse poo... I reckon I could make one if I had one to copy. In fact, when I get one I will be cloning it ;D
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mattsdafs
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Post by mattsdafs on Jan 21, 2013 17:15:24 GMT
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Post by Nick the man with a daf.... on Jan 21, 2013 17:40:05 GMT
kent bumper systems do a two pack plastic in a small twin syringe with mixing tubes, ive used ti to good effect to cast things in plastic, comes in rigid, semi rigid, and flexible varieties, they say its strong enough to repair a plastic bumper without re-enforcement.. might be worth a thought?? not that expensive either
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on Jan 21, 2013 17:58:21 GMT
I presuming you mean the nut that attaches the cable to the rear of the speedo unit? Interstingly that nut on Sophie is metal not plastic.
I also believe Joe discovered that a VW beetle speedo cable will fit.
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Post by andrejuan on Jan 22, 2013 14:38:09 GMT
I presuming you mean the nut that attaches the cable to the rear of the speedo unit? Interstingly that nut on Sophie is metal not plastic. I also believe Joe discovered that a VW beetle speedo cable will fit. That looks promising, I wonder which model year Bug?
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Post by andrejuan on Jan 22, 2013 14:41:07 GMT
...er...no you wont find 1...if i remember,they are not replaceable ...you may be able to put the cable in and get it to hold...but it will pop out again every now and then If it comes to it, I wondered about leaving the thread in and pushing the new cable through, then just sealing it with some strong mastic type stuff
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