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Post by spidersmart on Jul 18, 2015 12:58:20 GMT
Just a quick update on Sophia, after being unable to adjust the belts, I presumed the belts had stretched to much so obtained new belts from the club. When I came to fit the belts I then noticed that the adjuster was broken, after repair I was then able to adjust the belts. At leased I know have a spare set of belts. Sophia has now gone to the body shop for the door and hinge repairs and paint, l was not confidant enough to attempt this myself, she has only been gone a week but I can't wait for her return sometime next week. I will report and put up photos as soon as I get her back.
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Post by spidersmart on Jul 23, 2015 20:30:26 GMT
Hi got Sophia back hinges, door and wing done. Almost ready for the road but now I have to go into hospital for a major operation, so will not be able to do any work on her for about 2 to 3 months. Have a good summer Daffing everyone.
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mattsdafs
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Yolanda, 55 estate
Posts: 374
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Post by mattsdafs on Jul 25, 2015 7:22:58 GMT
Hope all goes well with the op..glad Sophia's bodywork has been sorted
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Post by joe on Jul 25, 2015 10:56:05 GMT
Chin up, hopefully you will be back on your feet before you know it. I was anyway! And keep us updated as the prospect of another Daf making it back onto the road warms the cockles of my cold and broken heart!
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Post by spidersmart on Jul 25, 2015 21:39:08 GMT
Thanks far the comments, is anyone going to the Essex Daffs weekender next month and would be able to bring me a drivers seat, that Matt has for me, back to somewhere near South Yorkshire.
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Post by joe on Jul 28, 2015 8:27:52 GMT
Hello. I might be popping down. Funds and work/home commitments permitting! I will let you know.
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Post by spidersmart on Jul 28, 2015 8:49:33 GMT
Thanks Joe.
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simon
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Post by simon on Aug 6, 2015 20:49:32 GMT
Hi, I've just read this thread through ... it's so good to see "my" old car coming back to life! I knew it had gone to a great new owner! Hope the op (yours, not Sophia's) is now history - best wishes to you (and your mum!) from Simon, still sadly dafless.
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Post by spidersmart on Jun 6, 2016 18:56:27 GMT
Why do our Daf's have to be so tempramental. Just spent last two weeks rewiring the dashbourd, after loseing my notes from when I took it out last year,every thing working OK. Then put everything back in, new blows one of the fuses as soon as ignition switched on, must have traped a wire someware.
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Post by andrejuan on Jun 6, 2016 18:59:55 GMT
We can all relate to that type of thing, it keeps us on our toes. Glad things are progressing :-))
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andrew
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Post by andrew on Jun 6, 2016 20:42:15 GMT
Why do our Daf's have to be so tempramental. Just spent last two weeks rewiring the dashbourd, after loseing my notes from when I took it out last year,every thing working OK. Then put everything back in, new blows one of the fuses as soon as ignition switched on, must have traped a wire someware. Don't panic! Electrical problems are often THE most frustrating ones to eradicate, and the MOST important thing is to only change or adjust/replace one thing at a time or you'll be in a bigger muddle then ever! If the fuse pops when the ignition is switched on then you know the problem is something that becomes live when the ignition is on (wipers, low hold ratio, fuel gauge to name but some.) One side of the fuse holder that popped will be live (+12volts) when the ignition is on, the other side will be at zero. If you can, remove the leads connected to the "zero" side ONE AT A TIME, put a fuse back in, put the ignition on & see if it "pops." With one of the feeds from the "zero" side of the fuse disconnected you'll find everything will be O.K. when the fuse is in place, so by trial and error you WILL find out which lead is running to a dead short and you'll then be able to focus on where the problem is. Hope this helps!
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Post by spidersmart on Jun 6, 2016 22:44:43 GMT
Thanks Andrew thats the plan for 2morrow car running well hopeing to get her MOT bone this week if I can sort this out.
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andrew
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Post by andrew on Jun 7, 2016 11:15:42 GMT
Any help I can be or give, feel free to PM me. Several years as a mechanic (alright, a V.W., not a DAF trained one!) taught me quite a lot!
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Post by spidersmart on Jun 7, 2016 20:09:30 GMT
Hi all took most of today to find it but fuse problem was a short on the flasher unit. If I could just get the side and tail lights to work without the headlights
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Post by spidersmart on Jun 8, 2016 11:08:02 GMT
At last after about 2 hours switching wires about this morning got every thing working. Sophia booked in for MOT at 10.30 in the morning. Fingers crossed.
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Post by andrejuan on Jun 8, 2016 17:59:45 GMT
Good luck with the MOT. I bet it shines like a new pin looking at the progress photo's
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Jun 9, 2016 10:23:04 GMT
good luck with her MOT.Ive got to do mine in july.
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Post by spidersmart on Jun 9, 2016 10:23:10 GMT
How do they know. MOT 10.30 this morning started Sophia up pulled out of garage on to drive about 9.00 no problem. 10.15 ready to go, no chance dificult to start then only running on one cylinder no power, ring and cancel MOT. Right hand cylinded cold not running on that one, new plug put in running great again. What is that about? MOT booked for tomorrow!?
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Post by andrejuan on Jun 9, 2016 12:23:38 GMT
OK, I had the same problem on my 44. Intermittent one cylinder running. Possibly the same reason?
With mine, I noticed on the cold side of the engine, the inlet manifold pipe didn't look quite right. After unbolting it and re seating it better it fired on both cylinders and has been fine since. Worth a look?
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Post by spidersmart on Jun 9, 2016 12:50:37 GMT
Thanks for that will have to check that,.must be a reason for fouling that plug.
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Post by spidersmart on Jun 10, 2016 9:15:14 GMT
Sophia behaved herself this morning,passed MOT no advisories, tester could not beleive how good the underneath was. Tax done road legal now.
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Post by swissdave on Jun 11, 2016 9:00:19 GMT
Excellent news!
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Post by joe on Jun 11, 2016 9:34:56 GMT
REJOICE! JUST REJOICE AT THAT NEWS!
Will you be going to Princethorpe in her then!?
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mattsdafs
Likes DAFs
Yolanda, 55 estate
Posts: 374
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Post by mattsdafs on Jun 11, 2016 9:59:56 GMT
Well done..
Always nice to see an ex Essex Dafs car back on the road where all Dafs belong. Enjoy taking her out.
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Post by spidersmart on Jun 11, 2016 10:06:00 GMT
Yes Joe couple of weeks to run her around to make sure every thing OK.then Princethorpe is the plan for her first major outing.
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Post by spidersmart on Jun 12, 2016 20:34:06 GMT
Been out in Sophia today nothing majorjust out with a frend shopping at local shopping centre. Great to see the smile on peoples faces when they see the strange car coming. Plenty of looks in the car park. Now any ideas about 10 miles run home, about 2 miles to go slow down for traffic lights, lights change before I get to them car accelerates to about 30 then cuts out pull over will no start. Check things over can't find anything.Thenafter about 20 min starts and tuns perfect again.
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Post by joe on Jun 13, 2016 11:14:53 GMT
Sounds (in my completely un-technical and know-nowt opinion) like a fuel vaporisation/hot starting issue. Although it was not air-cooled so this probably is of no use but my dear old 55 used to be terrible for this. You might need to fashion some sort of heat-shield for the inlet manifold.
Of course, it might not be this at all!
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Post by Richard DAF Webmeister on Jun 13, 2016 16:23:43 GMT
Something else to keep an eye on, is to make sure that the electronic pollution control/idle valve, is securely screwed in on/beside the carburettor.
I've lost count of the number of times over the years that they work loose with the vibration from the engine.
It looks like a "bullet" or valve and has a pale cable connected to it. Also check that the cable is connected securely and clean.
What happens is that when loose, you will find that the engine loses considerable power and runs rough, and will stall at junctions etc.
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andrew
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Post by andrew on Jun 13, 2016 16:37:01 GMT
The engine cutting out is because one of the three things needed for power is missing. These things are: 1/ Fuel. 2/ Air (or, to be more precise, oxygen) 3/ Ignition (or spark)
1/ Fuel: Dirty fuel or blocked fuel lines, perhaps a faulty fuel pump or a blocked filter in the fuel pump or fuel line, fuel starvation or evaporation caused by the heat of the engine. Unleaded fuel evaporates more quickly then old leaded fuel did! Fuel tank sealed too efficiently, thus creating a partial vacuum, preventing the pump from drawing fuel through to the engine. This is noticeable when you open the filler cap & hear a "psshhht"! 2/ Air: unlikely, but a badly blocked air filter (A combination of 1 & 2 could be a problem of dirt in the carburettor; a blocked jet or solenoid, or a damaged float valve) 3/ Ignition: points incorrectly gapped (unlikely) or (highly likely) condenser failure, damage to H.T. leads, causing arcing and loss of spark at the plugs. Dirty or incorrectly gapped plugs. Overheating coil causing breakdown and loss of H.T. voltage.
I hope this gives you "food for thought!" Of course, it might be none of these..... Good luck in sorting it out!
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andrew
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Post by andrew on Jun 13, 2016 16:42:24 GMT
Something else to keep an eye on, is to make sure that the electronic pollution control/idle valve, is securely screwed in on/beside the carburettor. I've lost count of the number of times over the years that they work loose with the vibration from the engine. It looks like a "bullet" or valve and has a pale cable connected to it. Also check that the cable is connected securely and clean. What happens is that when loose, you will find that the engine loses considerable power and runs rough, and will stall at junctions etc. As Richard says, and it's easy to check this: switch on the ignition (don't start the car!) and identify the wire leading to the carburettor slow running solenoid. When you disconnect it from the engine you should hear a "click" and another "click" where it is re-connected. If you do then most likely all's well. If not, the valve may be at fault...
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