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Post by Richard DAF Webmeister on Apr 4, 2018 19:35:10 GMT
Thank you. Might even bring on a caption competition!
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Post by jackytwoshoes on Apr 14, 2018 15:45:43 GMT
Nearly there now, with some pleasant tinnkering in the sunshine. My rebuild kit arrived so I set to rebuilding the vacuum valve- I couldn't believe how small the mushrooms are! There's the devil. And dissembled.. Not much to it is there? You can see the offending mushroom (good name for a band), and the solenoid it should be attached to. Also, this valve is perhaps from a Volvo 340 as it has a diode which isn't needed on a 66. See-ya! Now, the strange this is, all is now working as it should, and a test drive reveals that there is a change up effect, however this isn't nearly as strong as when I bodged it to the low hold side. The reason seems to be that there is much less vacuum present on the change up side than there is on the change down. This is confirmed by sucking on the inlet pipe of the body without any thing else attached- the change down side is free, however the change up side feels restricted. Is this correct?
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gromsound
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Post by gromsound on Apr 15, 2018 14:58:31 GMT
Yes Sir! the upshift side is limited in vacuum to a fixed max. that is where the large membrane housing is for, it is a pressure regulator just like on a gas bottle, but not variable. Also there is a flow restriction in your example (can be recognised by the exclamation mark on the mounting plate) which slows down the upshift effect. was for ''less erratic behaviour in city traffic'' (said the factory info). many daffers disable the latter function by the way... you'll see this working using a vacuum meter. experienced daf pilots have an upshiftvac meter in the cabin to spot developing troubles like small leaks etc.
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Post by jackytwoshoes on Apr 16, 2018 11:47:51 GMT
Fantastic information! Thanks!
So the valve is to limit max vacuum pressure? That makes sense. What would happen if I removed the max pressure valve for the highest gear possible for motorway driving? Would it cause damage to the diaphragms?
How would I disable the flow restriction, and where is the exclamation mark you refer to? If I disabled it, then presumably the upshift effect would be more noticeable around town (where I do most of my driving)..
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gromsound
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Post by gromsound on Apr 16, 2018 15:38:39 GMT
The upshift vac is deliberately limited to keep the vario intact, more is not useful since it will lock up in highest gear on a mechanical stop. any more vac will only strain the membranes and seals. so removal of the pressure limiter has no effect at all.
the flow restriction can be removed, will lead to quicker upshifting if that is what you like. it will also increase the ''pendulum'' effect when driving around the microswitch upswitching point, normally at ca 40 km/u. that was the very reason to change the construction, people complained about that effect.
You cant go back so better experiment with an older (scrap) valve if you really want to. the exclamation mark is visible in your own (second) picture! its cast on front of the ground plate between the two upper mounting holes.
Such fun these pure mechanical but very intelligent cars eh? so simple to tinker with when you know the consruction.
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Post by jackytwoshoes on Apr 19, 2018 6:53:50 GMT
The upshift vac is deliberately limited to keep the vario intact, more is not useful since it will lock up in highest gear on a mechanical stop. any more vac will only strain the membranes and seals. so removal of the pressure limiter has no effect at all. the flow restriction can be removed, will lead to quicker upshifting if that is what you like. it will also increase the ''pendulum'' effect when driving around the microswitch upswitching point, normally at ca 40 km/u. that was the very reason to change the construction, people complained about that effect. You cant go back so better experiment with an older (scrap) valve if you really want to. the exclamation mark is visible in your own (second) picture! its cast on front of the ground plate between the two upper mounting holes. Such fun these pure mechanical but very intelligent cars eh? so simple to tinker with when you know the consruction. Yes indeed! I'm now on the look out for another valve to play with- do let me know if you hear of one! I had a "failure to proceed" today- the non-return valve seems to be dodgy and occasionally lets all the fuel back to the tank. I managed to get it started again by drawing fuel through from the tank with a syringe and injecting it into the carb. I've had good experiences with electric pumps before- has anyone installed an electric pump on a 66?
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Post by jackytwoshoes on Apr 22, 2018 17:43:14 GMT
Trouble in paradise today- I can’t seem to draw any fuel through from the tank. I have a priming bulb that hasn’t managed to pull anything through, and neither can I seem to suck anything through with my mouth. When I blow back down the tube I can hear bubbles in the fuel tank, so there’s definitely fuel in the tank. Do I have a holed fuel feed? Acccess to the fuel line seems really bad- it looks like it goes through a chassis rail and presumable I’d have to drop the tank. I assumed that my fuel pump check valve was on the blink, so I’ve ordered a new pump which will be here tomorrow, so I’ll try manually filling the carb float and seeing if the new pump can pull some fuel through.
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andrew
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Post by andrew on Apr 23, 2018 7:36:05 GMT
I don't know if this will help, but there's a diaphragm inside the fuel pump fitted to the car, which might have a small tear in it, causing loss of pressure. Alternatively (and more likely, bearing in mind the age of the car) you might have a partial blockage in the fuel line. As I remember the fuel pipe from the tank to the front of the car is a thin metal one, which could possibly have accumulated some detritus (I do like that word!) over the years. I recently fitted a new tank to my 33 and the pipe fittings are fairly simple; maybe a blast of compressed air to clear it and confirm there's nothing stuck might be a starting point?
Another thought: If your fuel cap doesn't allow for air to enter the tank as the petrol is drawn out by the pump a partial vacuum will prevent the fuel flowing properly. The usual sign of this is the sound of pressure being released when the cap's removed. If running the engine with the cap off results in normal running you might have found the culprit!
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Post by jackytwoshoes on Apr 24, 2018 6:52:30 GMT
Thanks Andrew- I’m pretty certain it’s the fuel line (it’s a plastic one) as the pump works fine drawing from a fuel canister. I tried running it without the tank cap to confirm that the breather isn’t blocked. I can also blow back down the fuel line to the tank and hear bubbles, so I reckon it’s either the tank pick up pipe or the fuel line. The fuel line requires dropping the tank which I don’t want to tackle on the street, so I rigged up a temporary feed to the passenger footwell and drove to the local garage for them to drop the tank
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Post by swissdave on Apr 24, 2018 8:03:18 GMT
Nice bodge! My 66 has a plastic fuel line too, I also had a problem with fuel draining back at one point which turned out to be a tiny leak where the hose joined the fuel pump. Not enough for it to leak fuel but enough to allow a little air in overnight so restarting was always a pain needing a couple of long spins on the starter.
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gromsound
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Post by gromsound on Apr 24, 2018 16:38:17 GMT
most common (very common!) problem with no fuel from the 66 tank is the short piece of rubber hose on top of the tank which quietly deteriorates there out of sight. it will be so brittle it cracks and your pump will suck only air.
it is very easy to drop the tank, just 4 bolts from below, disconnect the sender wires, support it with a car jack and a plank. wiggle it free of the filler tunnel and drop it sofar that you can reach the offending hose. with modern fuel you can expect this hose to go much faster then before.
i'm almost sure this is your problem, the statistics speak clearly ;-) if you don't know about that hose you can search for ages and replace all parts of the system without any success... happened even to most prominent DCN members :-)
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Post by jackytwoshoes on Apr 24, 2018 17:41:44 GMT
Joys! Delight! This cheeky little sausage is back in the good books! There is the little section of hose causing all the problems! Probably didn't need that new pump after all, but hey ho! They did an oil change to 20w40 and set the valve clearances- they were way out and it now runs at half the volume! Sadly the supplied rocker gasket was wrong, but the original seems to have sealed nicely with some sealant. Behold the shiny bits and new smooth running! It sounds clattery here but that's phones for you. Your ears would agree with me.
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Post by jackytwoshoes on Apr 24, 2018 17:43:10 GMT
most common (very common!) problem with no fuel from the 66 tank is the short piece of rubber hose on top of the tank which quietly deteriorates there out of sight. it will be so brittle it cracks and your pump will suck only air. it is very easy to drop the tank, just 4 bolts from below, disconnect the sender wires, support it with a car jack and a plank. wiggle it free of the filler tunnel and drop it sofar that you can reach the offending hose. with modern fuel you can expect this hose to go much faster then before. i'm almost sure this is your problem, the statistics speak clearly ;-) if you don't know about that hose you can search for ages and replace all parts of the system without any success... happened even to most prominent DCN members :-) Thanks, you're bang on, as usual!
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Post by jackytwoshoes on Apr 24, 2018 18:13:45 GMT
That reminds me- I was hoping that the oil leak was coming from the rocker gasket, but unfortunately it’s also coming from the main crank seal. I think I’ll order it and have the garage pop a new one in. Any tips?
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Post by swissdave on Apr 24, 2018 18:31:58 GMT
The rear seal involves prop shaft removal via primary transmission being moved rearwards and is a load of work. Front crank seal is very simple and can be done in an hour with the engine still on the car. Top tip for the front seal replacement is to not drive it all the way in flush with the timing cover lip as the old seal was fitted. Instead leave it a couple of mm proud and it will be acting on a “new” part of the pulley nose and give a better, longer lasting seal.
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Post by jackytwoshoes on Apr 24, 2018 18:45:30 GMT
Great! Luckily it's the front one. Is there a Renault specialist or similar that UK Daffers use for buying things like crank seals?
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Post by swissdave on Apr 24, 2018 19:55:02 GMT
They are readily available from any motor factors, Volvo 340 is the same fitting and most factors have a Payen or similar gasket book that goes back far enough for those.
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Post by Richard DAF Webmeister on Apr 24, 2018 20:07:31 GMT
Really pleased to see this discussion.
Firstly for what we are learning and hopefully sharing advice about this 66, but also the fact that it is all on here anyway!
Once upon a time, before the appearance of other social media sites, we'd have dozens if not hundreds of such discussions going on at the same time.
But that's progress, I guess.
At least we have a sort of archive on here, which is more than can be said for the other place.
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Post by andrejuan on Apr 24, 2018 20:24:25 GMT
They are readily available from any motor factors, Volvo 340 is the same fitting and most factors have a Payen or similar gasket book that goes back far enough for those. That is worth knowing thanks. This is I job I will be doing as well ( mine drips now and then ) so if I get the part I will post details on here.
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Post by jackytwoshoes on Apr 24, 2018 20:36:20 GMT
Agreed. The knowledge you get from places like this amazing, and it really helps to keep me motivated, keeping a log like this. I’ve got lots more bits and bobs to do and I plan to do 300 miles or so over the next 4 days, which will be the first time I’ve done some long distances. Don’t put down your keyboards yet, in case I need some help along the way...!
Many many thanks for all the input everyone, keep it coming!
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Post by jackytwoshoes on Apr 26, 2018 14:35:47 GMT
Beach status unlocked
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Post by swissdave on Apr 26, 2018 18:23:05 GMT
Great pic!
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