DAF 44 1970 - How to remove rear brake drums?

[luxhoj]

Hi
I am a new member of DAF Owners Club, and I joined because there is no DAF Club here in Denmark, so I feel a bit on my own here in this country . I have had my DAF 44 (1970 model) only since September of last year, but the brakes need a service. The drums at the front was no problem to remove, but I have a problem with the rear drums. I do not want to use a lot of force, but perhaps that is just what is needed?

I have the "DAF Owners Workshop Manual - Autobook 752 by Kenneth Ball, which on page 118 says: "Use a suitable puller to remove the brake drum". I have attached a photo of the puller I have got, and need your advice, please. Do you consider it suitable for the job - or am I likely to ruin something, if I use it?  

So:
- Any suggestions as to which kind of puller I should get and use? (Description or photos would be much appreciated, please - if the one I have got is a "no go")
- Anything else I should be aware of, when trying to remove the rear drums? I have turned the adjusters, as described in the workshop manual, but have you got other bits of good advice and hints that might be helpful?
- And finally: What kind of brake fluid do you use or recommend? I want to replace all of it - not just top it up. The Dutch internet shop "dafhobby.nl" seems to recommend and sell Dot4 brake fluid for all DAF models. Is that in your opinion the correct substitute for the SAE J-1703, which is the type of fluid mentioned in the manual, that came with car, as well as in the work shop manual by Kenneth Ball? I guess the J-1703 is no longer on the market?

Hope to hear from some of you much more experienced DAF owners - and thanks a lot in advance. 

Henning Luxhøj
Mariager
Denmark





 

[starider]

Hi, remove the split pin and loosen the retaining nut several turns, next make sure the brake adjusters are fully turned back,a good shot of WD40 or Plusgas, a good tap with a copper mallet on the end of the shaft,then if the drum hasn't released along the splines, try tapping one side of the drum while pulling the opposite side of the drum with your other hand. Failing that unfortunately a puller is needed.If you are able to manufacture a puller, drop me a PM and I'll measure mine and give you sizes.The puller you have is not suitable.The correct puller looks like a UK Top Hat with three holes in the brim and a bolt in the centre of top.It's amazing how easily the drums come off with the correct puller!!.........starider.

[gromsound]

You may try the inertia pull hammer method:
Bolt on the wheel the other way around (backside facing you) turn the nuts only 3 turns so you leave a lot of play between wheel and drum. Then use the wheel as pulling hammer, the impulse of the wheel mass on the drum will normally loosen it from the shaft.
Its a bit brutal but even works on almost seized wheels in the breakers yard in France ;-)
You may prepare the job by heating the centre of the drum (around the shaft end) using a gas flame, that will expand the drum a bit.

succes and greetings from Daf country.

[starider]

Hi, not a method I've heard of,should work OK, but don't be too brutal,remember it's the shape of the indents in the wheel round the stud holes that centre the wheel on the hub.So if you try this method ensure you don't cause damage to the indents.Please let us know how you eventually remove the drums...................starider

[gromsound]

yes, normally i use an old rusty spare wheel for this (also the wheel is reversed so the machined centering surfaces are on the safe side). preferably a 46/66 wheel which is flat in the middle. Also you might reverse the nuts or use some old spares. I read the method once in a classic car magazine and used it several times as a last resort.

[starider]

Hi, agreed, but although the machined centring is not in contact with the wheel nut,if too much force is applied, the dome on the nut could distort the machined centring surface from behind, also reversing the nut may cause distortion.I point this out in case anyone trying this method hasn't an old wheel to use.I agree,use only as a last resort.
Anyone who intends to keep their DAF would benefit from a simple puller.Drop me a PM with an address and I'll send a drawing......starider.

[Nick the man with a daf....]

could a puller be made of a wheel rim by welding up a tube on the centre with a thread in it and a large bolt ? as I cant get Milly's rear drums off, but then they have never been off

[starider]

Hi,should work,make sure the bolt is high tensile and grind a shallow point on the end.Soak the splined area with WD40 put the retaining nut on loosely[so that if the end of the half shaft gets damaged you will be able remove the nut]and grease the threads and contact end of the bolt.Then apply plenty of pressure,if the drum will still not come loose, give the head of the bolt in the "extractor" a couple of sharp blows on the end. If this doesn't work put a little more pressure on the bolt and try again.
It's worth checking to see if the wheel flex's as you tighten because if it does it means very little force is being applied.
As I said before it is important that the adjusters are full off.
Where do you live? Send me a PM if you still cann't get them off. DOT4 is absolutely fine[DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC unless you are renewing the whole braking system].................starider

[Nick the man with a daf....]

it worked !! even with 20mm fine pitched thread on the pushing bolt it was an effort to get the drums off, found obviously shoes without linings and the linings all wedged in all sorts of funny positions...