|
|
Post by bobdisk on Nov 20, 2018 17:56:33 GMT
Daf 33 : The exhaust manifolds are both well and truly stuck inside the heads. I would imagine its a fairly common thing for a 33 thats not been used for some years. Both the aluminium and steel have corroded and stuck together and I cannot separate them. Soaked in releasing fluid for days, no luck. Tried heating, but didnt want to heat too much in case of damage. Again, no luck. Has anyone else come across this, and had success in separating them? If so, how did you do it? I need to replace both as they are damaged at the outlet end, the flanges and at least an inch of pipe are broken off and the hot spot pipe is missing.
|
|
|
|
Post by starider on Mar 3, 2019 17:34:05 GMT
Hi, sorry only just picked up this question.You may have sorted this by now, but the problem could be that if you're trying to lever the flange out of the head you will be unable to put even force on the area inside the head.I would suggest you remove the studs by using the locking nut method[plus more penetrating oil,I always use Plusgas or if not available, diesel oil], you can then try turning the exhaust/heat exchanger in both directions. It's always worked for me[so far!!]..................starider
|
|
|
|
Post by bobdisk on Mar 4, 2019 17:10:05 GMT
Did more or less what you said, plus heat around the hole and a BIG 'AMMER ! One of the studs broke, so that will have to be removed. The manifolds are stuck on the spare engine as well, so it looks as if its a common thing? This car has not been on the road since 1980's, plenty of it is rot.
|
|
|
|
Post by starider on Mar 5, 2019 0:11:17 GMT
Hi, where did the stud break off? If it is near the face of the head here is a tip which always works for me[although you need to be good with an Arc Welder or MIG welder], as a delicate touch is needed. Firstly protect the area around the sheared stud from weld splatter, then very carefully build up the end of the stud with blobs of weld until long enough to tap on a nut, then weld the nut onto the end you have built up with weld. Allow to cool a little and you should find that the heat generated will allow you to wind out the piece of stud with a spanner on the nut.Very very occasionally you may have to repeat the welding "blobs". I have used this method hundreds of times over many many years on all sorts of engines,gearboxes,castings etc.with from memory only a couple of failures.The problem with trying to drill out the stud is that unless you are absolutely spot on the centre of the broken stud the drill will run off the centre punch mark into the softer aluminium and then you may as well give up.If you are lucky and there is stud still well above the face of the head,I would again tap a nut large enough for a tight fit on the stud,weld it to the stud and the heat should have released the stub from the aluminium.............starider
|
|
|
|
Post by starider on Mar 5, 2019 0:17:37 GMT
PS On the old engine try giving the studs/nuts a large amount of heat,allow to cool right down,then a good squirt with penetrating oil,allow to soak for a while, try to undo again, if no good give another good heat and try again after about 10 seconds.Should work OK, if not repeat.Good luck!!................starider
|
|
|
|
Post by bobdisk on Mar 5, 2019 17:30:30 GMT
Its almost level with the surface, nothing much poking up out of the hole. Where I work we do metalwork (as well as electronics, my area) and a colleague reckons he could weld some blobs, as you say, and then an old allen key to the stub. This will give a 90 deg angle to act as a lever.
|
|
