pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on May 27, 2010 20:33:42 GMT
oh I seem to have done it again have a video of a drive round town in Bruce this time.
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Post by dafdaffer on May 27, 2010 21:13:51 GMT
LOL comedy sound track is someone playing snooker in the back ;D
very good
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on May 27, 2010 21:23:15 GMT
you can hear the gear lever and peddles moving and what I presume is the phone moving in its mount as it doesn't sound like that if your actually sitting in it.
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on May 27, 2010 21:24:47 GMT
Oh and the squeky front suspension is definatly audible lol
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on May 27, 2010 21:46:27 GMT
LOL comedy sound track is someone playing snooker in the back ;D very good I think you'll find that's his big ends, Paul
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on May 27, 2010 21:50:22 GMT
LOL comedy sound track is someone playing snooker in the back ;D very good I think you'll find that's his big ends, Paul if my big ends where worn enough to make that noise it would not have been able to trounce Shiela a few weeks back hehehe
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on May 27, 2010 21:51:09 GMT
Errr, what do you think finished 'em off?
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Post by dafdaffer on May 27, 2010 21:55:39 GMT
;D
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33grinder
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Post by 33grinder on May 27, 2010 21:59:31 GMT
Don't worry Paul, squeeky interiors are a trademark of classic Brits, Rover has enough of them for sure!! ;D And her rear suspension is rock hard and feels every bump.
I was impressed by how quiet Bruce sounds on that clip at tickover and pull away.
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on May 27, 2010 22:06:02 GMT
just more to prove how sweet it is on tickover an engine bay video taken by the previous owner.
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33grinder
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Post by 33grinder on Jun 1, 2010 22:23:26 GMT
That does sound sweet Paul, she purrs! I must admit that I do miss quiet engines. When the Trabant went (noisy car, whiney gearbox), Gavina was soon back on the road (noisy engine) and I took a lovely smooth engine out of Rover and replaced it with a gloriously loud engine. You would think I would have learnt by now! ;D
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on Jun 8, 2010 11:29:23 GMT
My engine is not sounding sweet now. The ruddy thing starts after some effort sounds like its running on 2 and then dies as soon as you give it any throttle. Oh and its pouring blue smoke out the exhaust. It was running fine when I parked it up last week. If it stops raining this week you will find me fiddling under the bonnet. Gonna give it a full service and pull the head. Hopefully I will be able to see the problem. Now all I need is for the rain to stop and for me to start saving up for the swear jar.
I dont think this car will be making it too lichfield or any other distance event this year.
Paul
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Jun 8, 2010 12:12:04 GMT
Before pulling the head, get it idling and pull plug leads one at a time to find out which cylinders are firing and which aren't. The ones not firing will make no difference, the ones that are firing will kill the engine when you pull them. That lets you know where to concentrate when the head's off. Also pull the plugs and look for oil fouling. Given that she had that oil leak at the back end of the head gasket, hopefully it will just be gasket failure - if it is, do not use the cheap unbranded gaskets that are available. They're virtually guaranteed to fail again unless the block and head are 110% perfect! Get a Payen one (Paddocks have them in stock for the Herald 13/60 - part number GEG374p ) which will cost literally a couple of quid extra but will save future headaches. www.jamespaddock.co.uk/Stock.aspx?SubCategoryID=5&VehicleID=5&category=5
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on Jun 8, 2010 12:57:13 GMT
Ive got a 13/60 gasket from canley classics and I think I may have found another perhaps contributory problem. I found spark on all cylinders. But all cylinders where firing intermitently and I think ive found the culprit especially as it wont start at all now. heres a photo reckon thats the culprit? Whatever it needs replacing and the king lead doesn't seem to have a brilliant fit either. Where can I get them from.
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Jun 8, 2010 13:04:47 GMT
From the usual suspects: leads from any factors (they're only bits of wire), rotor arm probably any factors, if not any old car specialist.
Wouldn't explain clouds of blue smoke though.
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on Jun 8, 2010 18:19:47 GMT
Rotor arm in stock at motor world. The only place within about 15 miles that does anything car related for 99p. Stuck it on the car and still no joy. Now it doesn't even splutter just resolutly refuses to start. Tomorrow will see plugs, points, leads, condensor and coil changed. If it still dont start then it will be a framed to the workshop, and have a new head gasket fitted. Hopefully then it will have enough compression to start. Oh what I would give for a compression tester right now.
BAD BAD BAD Bruce!!
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on Jun 11, 2010 10:21:02 GMT
Im starting to run out of ideas now.
I have changed
spark plugs HT Leads Rotor Arm Points dizzy Cap. There where faults with each and every one
I have regapped the points and plugs 3 times now. Ive stripped the carb all looks well and there is fuel inside. I checked continuity in both low and high tension circuits its all good. Theres a spark at all plugs so the coil got to be good should I just change it anyway? Ive also removed 5 scotch bright links (can I blame Adam) from the LT circuit cut the wires back to good soldered the join, used heat shrink rap and crimp brand new spade connectors on the end.
All to no avail still not even a cough. Look like its the towing dolly to workshop to strip and decoke the head replace the HG and regrind the valve seats. If it still wont fire up. I might have to hide and stop myself looking at the petrol can that keeps winking at me. Judging by the state of the parts im pulling out im starting to wonder if this engine has ever been serviced in the 43 years this cars been about
Paul
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Jun 11, 2010 11:02:48 GMT
Right, to get the background here completely straight, is this right?
(1) The car was working fine when you parked it up
(2) Next time you tried to started it there was rough running and blue smoke (how much smoke?)
(3) It now refuses to start at all.
If that's how it happened then questions that need answers:
(a) Were there any loud bangs or other nasty noises when you managed to start it at step (2) above?
(b) Does it have a decent fast cranking speed?
(c) Is the spark that you have a nice "fat" blue one or a slightly weedy looking yellow colour?
(d) Is there any sign of oil in the water or water in the oil?
(e) Do you have a locking fuel cap?
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on Jun 11, 2010 12:24:54 GMT
Car was running fine. On the way back from a show I noticed when the engine was on overun down hills the odd puff of smoke in the rear view mirror. As soon as the revs picked up it stopped. Also because I was following the DAF the speeds where low and the temp kept dropping low as soon as it warmed up it stopped smoking. It was then parked up for a week when I came back it started as normal, and seemed to be running fine it was able to move a cars length before it just stopped. I presumed id stalled cranked it again and it fired straight up. Still running smoothly but as soon as I touched the throttle it would die instantly. Now it wont start at all and doesn't even stutter. No loud bangs or untoward noises of any kind. Cranks over fairly fast although the battery seems to be getting a bit low now after 3 days of not starting.
Spark seems weady at the plug but it is there. Its not as strong as it was before. The plugs are new. No signs of water in the oil or vica versa. Oil is a nice dark brown and doesn't smell burnt at all. Yes I do have a locking fuel cap and the gauge still reads 1/2 full.
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on Jun 11, 2010 13:00:33 GMT
Just a thought to check the coil would I be able to nick the coil of Gladys as they are both 12V
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Jun 11, 2010 13:19:57 GMT
Ok, forget major mechanical problems, you have an ignition problem unless the carb diaphrahm is split - but you posted that you'd checked the carb so will assume not that. Don't bother replacing any more bits, it's a wiring or bad connection fault (almost guaranteed).
Take the distributor cap off, turn the engine until the points are closed and turn the ignition on (don't crank the engine). Measure the voltage between the following points and the battery -ve post:
(1) The battery +ve terminal
(2) Live feed to the coil
(3) Coil negative terminal (where the wire to the points goes)
(4) The connection to the points (at the distributor end)
(5) The distributor base-plate that the points screw onto
(6) The distributor body
(7) The engine block
Measurements (1) and (2) should be the same as each other. If (2) is more than 0.2 volts below battery voltage then you have a bad connection in the feed to the coil or the ignition switch. Wire a temporary feed direct from the battery +ve to the coil +ve and see if she starts.
Measurements (3) to (7) should all be 0 volts. If the voltage at point (3) is more than about 0.2v then you have a problem between there and earth. The remaining measurements will help pinpoint it - as you go through them, each point that the voltage drops shows that there's too much resistance between that point and the one before it in the sequence.
Also measure the voltage directly across the coil terminals. That will give the total voltage drop between the battery and coil and the coil and earth. If that's more than about 0.5 volts below the battery voltage then you won't have enough spark to fire.
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on Jun 11, 2010 14:28:08 GMT
will check that lot and my mechanic friend is coming over to see what he can see. I swapped the coils over between the 2 cars. Gladys still runs and Bruce still doesn't so there was nought wrong with the coil. There is a very tiny split on the edge of the diaphragm but it doesn't look like enough to cause a real problem as it is within the overlap of the carb body my mechanic friend agrees that wont be the problem especially as there is fuel in the cylinders as there are traces on the plugs.
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on Jun 11, 2010 14:51:36 GMT
1. 12.03V
2. 11.5V
3. 0.3v
4. 0.3V
5. 0.03V
6. 0V
7. 0V
0.9V drop between coil terminals.
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Jun 11, 2010 15:48:33 GMT
Ok, 1/2 volt lost before you even get to the coil is way too much. Bear in mind that when the starter's running the battery can easily drop to around 10 volts, which means the (12v) coil is only getting 9.5 volts. Then take off the 0.3v you're loosing between the coil and that only leaves just over 9v for the coil to make a spark in a pressurised cylinder. Which ain't going to happen. Try again with a direct positive feed from the battery to the coil, which will give an immediate extra 1/2 volt for the coil to play with. Also, just to double check, was the reading at point (5) 0.03v as you typed or was it 0.3v like points (3) and (4)? If it was 0.03v then most of the loss after the coil is across the points themselves (run a piece of 400 ish grit wet & dry between them using their own spring pressure to clean. Remember to turn it over and do both points!) If you meant to type 0.3 then there's a problem with the little earth strap that goes from the moving base plate to the fixed body of the coil (excuse the creative wiring in my dizzy): This is an almost always overlooked connection but if it fails then you get an intermittent earth on the points which gives all sorts of cutting out type problems.
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on Jun 11, 2010 15:59:01 GMT
Ok it was 0.03V but your dizzy looks different from mine. Where the green wire comes in it attaches directly to the dizzy body using an insulated mount then their is a seperate wire going from that to the points that to me looks suspiciously like that earth strap.
i was wrong the earth strap is correct and intact I just seem to still have the little plastic tab that fits in the corner of the dizzy where the green wire in yours comes in.
Hmm I probably should have sanded up the new points before I put them on the car ;D. As it was I just stuck em on straight out the box and set the gap
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Jun 11, 2010 16:18:38 GMT
As I said, excuse the creative wiring on mine - the green wire is non-original but does the job well.
So you're losing nearly 1/3 volt between the connection at the distributor and the base-plate. That has to be either the wire between the insulator and the points, across the points themselves, or between the points and the baseplate. The last one is very unlikely because there's a good contact area and they're screwed down tight.
So take more readings between the distributor connector and the connection post of the points, then between the connection post and the base-plate. One of those should show most of the 0.3v you're losing and that's the one you have to get nice and clean and secure. Don't forget to check the crimping of the terminal that goes onto the points - if you can get a soldering iron near it then clean it up and solder it.
For the 0.5v you're losing before you even get to the coil, likely suspects are any connectors (original or otherwise) in the wiring and the ignition switch. That's why the easiest way to deal with that in order to get her running is to use a direct feed from the battery. Once you've done that you should have a nice big, fat, blue spark at the plugs instead of a yellow one. If (unlikely) you still haven't then there's a coil or (more likely) condenser fault.
Once there's a good spark rather than just a spark you can worry about other stuff if needed. But get that spark big & fat first!
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on Jun 11, 2010 16:25:58 GMT
Can I have permission to scream at adam for rivetting my coil mount on. Its just taken me an hour to get the ruddy thing secure in its mount. Oh and if youd seen the Adam wiring on this car you would not be suprised that its loosing a lot. There where 3 scotch locks between the coil and distributor which ive now removed. He also seems to have had a habit of extending wires by pushing spade conectors onto each other rather than just using longer wires. Granted I did the same for the ignition bypass but that was tempory. I haven't cleaned the points up yet so it could still be that. Ive got to stop because of the nosey kids that seem to want to get their heads chopped of by the cooling fan ;D
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on Jun 12, 2010 17:22:58 GMT
Me thinks the ignition losses might have had something to do with the loose ignition barrel. I have mounted it back up snugly and it might work. Also decided to tackle the mass of cabling. I think I removed about 10m of unesecasary or just floating wires which could account for losses and whilst I was at it changed the speedo cable. Guess what now the batterys flat and I have to wait to see if my efforts are worth while ;D
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Bob Scrivens
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Post by Bob Scrivens on Jun 12, 2010 23:15:33 GMT
Hi Paul did you have this much trouble with the DAF? ?? Bob
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on Jun 13, 2010 7:39:42 GMT
Oh Gladys has given me more than her fair share of problems and most of them have been expensive. But now its right and running nice hopefully Bruce will be aswell soon.
DAF has had All shocks replaced or rebuilt. New throttle cable new exhaust new belts new brake slave cylinder new master cylinder new clutch shoes.
So far bruce has had Welding ignition parts and a speedo cable
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