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Post by dafdaffer on Mar 3, 2012 17:05:45 GMT
she looked good!
ps Richard just been through the rest of the pictures in your album, i like the NEC ones......and the lass on the bonnet, is there anyway you could get that copied as a poster?
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Post by Richard DAF Webmeister on Mar 3, 2012 23:29:39 GMT
Thanks Paul. Yes, those NEC pics from 1999 of course featured dear old Biddy who, unlike the Ferrari being unloaded from a trailer, got there and back under her own steam. And the chick pic. I've longed like that picture and indeed I did have it made into a small poster - this picture of it is of that poster which is on my garden office, sorry, shed wall. (which you will note is suitable 70s style pine cladding.) I often sit at that desk looking for inspiration when doing the mag! But let me see what I can do re getting another one, or two, or three. It's so non-PC that you just have to love it.
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Mar 4, 2012 23:10:06 GMT
A few more steps forward today, despite my multimeter going missing down there - I'm NOT happy about that! Managed to extract the broken steering column bolt by careful grinding and use of mole-grips. At some point someone had attempted to use 6mm metric bolts, but Daf were (oddly) still using UNF stuff when this car was made. Robbed a couple from my spare Sheila stuff, so the column can be bolted back in properly when the time comes. While the column was out, I also took the chance to drill out the melted / seized ignition switch. For those who've never removed one before, this is how it goes. You can do it in the car, but seeing as it was out anway, it was easier to have the whole thing in the vice: First, centre-punch the "break-head" bolt that secures the barrel: i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/centrePunchSteeringLockBolt.jpg[/IMG] Then drill into it by about 3 or 4 mm. A 3mm drill is about the right size: i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/drillSteeringLockBolt.jpg[/IMG] I'm not a big fan of Torqx screws, but a cheap Torqx bit is ideal for the next bit. Find a suitable size that doesn't quite fit the hole you've drilled and tap it in. The bolt is soft steel so it'll grip as it goes i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/fitTorqxBit.jpg[/IMG] You can then undo the bolt, probably using our fingers (the're not done up all that tight): i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/breakBoltRemoved.jpg[/IMG] and slide the whole barrel out of the column: i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/removeIgnitionSwitch.jpg[/IMG] Note that, if the steering lock is working, you may have to release it using the key before the barrel will slide out. In this case the steering lock was stuck along with everything else! Having got that sorted, it was time to start checking through some of the electrics. The car only had 2 fuses present out of 8, and our local hardware place doesn't sell this style, so there was a fair bit of swapping involved but we have headlights: i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/headlights.jpg[/IMG] and sidelights: i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/frontSides.jpg[/IMG] The switch is a little intermittent, but nothing a quick strip & clean shouldn't cure i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/rearSides.jpg[/IMG] One reversing light (guessing it's bulb on the other one): i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/reverseLight.jpg[/IMG] plus half the hazards (the left half). No indicators, but also no horn (on the same switch) unless I bridge the wires on the back of the switch so I'm suspecting the switch, which is back here for cleaning. Oh, and wipers: So, it looks like the basic wiring is going to be ok, just need to find the short on the starter wiring and remove some of the added accessory stuff to tidy things up. That's a huge relief because I really wasn't looking forward to major rewiring! Now I just need to find out who's moved / borrowed / snaffled my meter......
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Mar 4, 2012 23:31:54 GMT
btw, I have no idea why some of those images aren't working - the URLs are right (copied straight from photofekit) and I've tested them pasting into a new tab, but they won't load within the post for some reason! eta: I've just cross-posted this to the Popular Classics forum (not hosted by Proboards) and they're working fine there, so I guess it's some sort of odd Proboards glitch
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Post by spunkymonkey on Mar 6, 2012 11:12:03 GMT
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Post by Patrick on Mar 6, 2012 18:32:45 GMT
Now that's why I'm no mechanic! ;D Ping!!! Peeowwww!! Not unless I had a spotlessly white garage of course to be able to easily rescue whatever it is that's just shot across the other side!
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Post by spunkymonkey on Mar 6, 2012 19:35:10 GMT
Now that's why I'm no mechanic! ;D Ping!!! Peeowwww!! Not unless I had a spotlessly white garage of course to be able to easily rescue whatever it is that's just shot across the other side! The white garage doesn't help when they slip through the gaps into alternate dimensions, Patrick. We've all had it happen - drop something and no matter how hard you look you can't find it. Then it turns up clear as day a few days or weeks later in exactly the place you were looking. After years of working on watches, including hours of hunting for dropped parts, I'm 100% convinced that such parts take a holiday through a worm hole ;D
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on Mar 6, 2012 19:45:54 GMT
Now that's why I'm no mechanic! ;D Ping!!! Peeowwww!! Not unless I had a spotlessly white garage of course to be able to easily rescue whatever it is that's just shot across the other side! The white garage doesn't help when they slip through the gaps into alternate dimensions, Patrick. We've all had it happen - drop something and no matter how hard you look you can't find it. Then it turns up clear as day a few days or weeks later in exactly the place you were looking. After years of working on watches, including hours of hunting for dropped parts, I'm 100% convinced that such parts take a holiday through a worm hole ;D too true! I just spent two hours trying to find that one elusive 10mm headed adjuster screw for the new door I fitted to a friends MPV this morning. You'd never guess where it was hiding. Yep inside the 10mm deep socket I used to take it off ;D
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Post by spunkymonkey on Mar 7, 2012 21:29:22 GMT
Got the switches and things down there for a trial fitting today - needless to say, it ended up as slightly more reassembly than I'd planned! Before attacking the electric string, I flatted down the o/s/f wing with the EBay wet & dry (800 grit) and put what I hope is the final coat on. It was looking good enough to polish except for about half a dozen pinpoints where the underlying yellow decided to show. At least I know that it will flat back well. The paper is excellent, btw, I can seriously recommend the stuff, especially at this price! www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140709344217?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649Note that's for 10 sheets, not the 4 you get from Halfrauds for about £3. You also get 5 different grades (2 sheets each) which is sensible in the finishing grades where you don't need much! Anyway, the paint is now to this, still working from the first can of paint: i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/finalCoatOSFWing.jpg[/IMG] Pretty confident that should flat and polish to a mirror So then it was time to crack on with the wiring. A full set of new fuses went in and I managed to work out what was what (mostly) from the loose wiring, then steering column and switchgear was refitted: i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/steeringBack.jpg[/IMG] There was a problem with the spotlight relay (it had a faulty coil) but someone had bodge-wired a fused relay into the starter circuit, which I was intending to remove anyway. So I removed it and fitted it for the spotlights. The end result lit up like a Christmas Tree: i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/frontLights.jpg[/IMG] i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/rearLights.jpg[/IMG] Ok, it's a Christmas tree with a couple of bulbs out but basically everything's working as it should, from the right switches, and without melting any more ignition switches ;D
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Post by spunkymonkey on Mar 8, 2012 18:10:03 GMT
Found a bit of time for some more flatting today. There were a couple more (very small) rub-throughs, but not enough to stop me shining the rest up a bit. You'll have to excuse the unpolished bit towards the top and front, that's where the fresh paint is from the rub-throughs which I had to work round: i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/paintTouchIn.jpg[/IMG] And please excuse me saluting myself here - the sun was directly onto the camera through a window and it was flaring like crazy without my hand there! i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/osfWingReflection.jpg[/IMG] Having done what I could for now on that, I decided the next bit to tackle was the damage to the o/s C pillar and the slightly worrying "springy" bit below the o/s rear window. The damage to the pillar turned out to be a previously filled dent where the filler had lifted over time, but nice sound metal underneath. So it was a simple case of clean up and get some Kurust on to work its magic overnight: i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/osCPillarDamage.jpg[/IMG] Onto the window base. The window came out easily enough, and some quick work with a cold-chisel saw the rivets holding the trim removed, to reveal this. ell, not this exactly because this is after some aggressive flapping and more Kurust. Nowhere near as bad as I'd feared and the repairs should be sorted over the next day or two: i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/osRearWindowFrame.jpg[/IMG] i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/osRearWindowHole.jpg[/IMG] Finally, just to try and stp Sian worrying about the hole I'd just made in her car, I gave the wing another quick buff over and took another photo: i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/startingToPolish.jpg[/IMG] I'm reasonably happy with that finish ;D
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Post by dafdaffer on Mar 8, 2012 20:51:44 GMT
looking good....my blue coupe had the same issues below the windows, when it was repaired i had it welded up although it warped a little.....ps are you sure that you are not starting to like this one a bit more : )
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Mar 8, 2012 21:17:21 GMT
Will be welding the window hole, hopefully without (too much) distortion - I'll have to see how gentle I can be with it The C post will get filler because its completely sound except for being dented. As for liking it, yes I do but it's more to do with liking the chance to refinish mostly sound bodywork for a change. It's a whole different (and more enjoyable) world than chasing rust. Trying to convince myself that he really doesn't warrant buying in some G10 compound for that final swirl removal right now........ ;D
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Post by spunkymonkey on Mar 10, 2012 17:44:43 GMT
Another fairly productive afternoon today Started by getting down & dirty with the rust hole below the window. Made up a patch and spotted it in place along the surface where the original spot welds for the quarter panel were: i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/patchSpotted.jpg[/IMG] and then welding the panel to the new edge, making sure that the whole thing was slightly "below" the level of the original panel: i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/patchWelded.jpg[/IMG] That allowed filler to be added to start bringing it back up to flat, and to fill the dent in the C pillar at the same time: i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/startFiller.jpg[/IMG] In between waiting for the Kurust to do it's stuff the drivers door had its trim removed, the old paint machine flatted, and 3 coats of shiny new black: i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/doorPainted.jpg[/IMG] Once that's hardened of a little it should hopefully be a case of gentle hand flatting before a final coat, then final flatting and polishing to match up with the wing. Although they don't look that bad together already i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/osWingAndDoor.jpg[/IMG]
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Post by spunkymonkey on Mar 11, 2012 19:59:31 GMT
Lots of work today for very little visible progress. I hate days like that, but they're inevitable sometimes. Most of the time was spent building the filler up and starting to get the lines back, Not quite there yet, but at least I can see where I'm heading with it now: i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/fillerShaping.jpg[/IMG] The real toughie is that scallop at the top of the side panel. Being concave, it's almost impossible to sand using a block of any sort, and getting filler properly flat without a block is a VERY tedious process. Still, it's slowly taking shape - at least the edge at the top is somewhere close to where it should be again: i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/sideScallopFiller.jpg[/IMG] In between filler coats, I started flatting down the door and was pleased to find that there seems to be enough paint on there already. Of course, that meant that I couldn't resist giving it a light polish even though it's not hardened enough yet - patience was never my strongest point ;D i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/startDoorPolish.jpg[/IMG]
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Post by spunkymonkey on Mar 13, 2012 14:42:32 GMT
Houston, we have a small problem! I spotted this one a couple of days ago but didn't like to say anything until I'd checked. Results are now in and they're as I suspected At some point Boris has had his o/s sill replaced. Haven't looked at the n/s yet but expect it's the same. Obviously, it was done quite a while ago, and it was done very well and very neatly. It looks like the old sill was properly removed from the lower flange and then cut back to just below the "step" under the door where the trim strip should go. It's also been properly protected afterwards and showing no sign of rust around the welds. The trouble is, it's been spot-welded which was (probably) perfectly acceptable when it was done but is now an MOT fail. Not only does the top joint need to be seamed (where it joins the old metal) but so does the flange at the bottom because not going back to the original joints ALL ROUND the replacement makes it a "repair patch" rather than a replacement panel. Since about the mid-80s a repair patch has to be fully seam welded even where it recreates an original spot-welded seam (like the bottom flange). I'm scratching my head a little about what to do about this - just seam welding the top edge (which would effectively turn it into a full replacement panel) isn't acceptable but I really do NOT want to start re-welding a neat, secure and rot-free lower flange
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on Mar 13, 2012 17:34:51 GMT
Houston, we have a small problem! I spotted this one a couple of days ago but didn't like to say anything until I'd checked. Results are now in and they're as I suspected At some point Boris has had his o/s sill replaced. Haven't looked at the n/s yet but expect it's the same. Obviously, it was done quite a while ago, and it was done very well and very neatly. It looks like the old sill was properly removed from the lower flange and then cut back to just below the "step" under the door where the trim strip should go. It's also been properly protected afterwards and showing no sign of rust around the welds. The trouble is, it's been spot-welded which was (probably) perfectly acceptable when it was done but is now an MOT fail. Not only does the top joint need to be seamed (where it joins the old metal) but so does the flange at the bottom because not going back to the original joints ALL ROUND the replacement makes it a "repair patch" rather than a replacement panel. Since about the mid-80s a repair patch has to be fully seam welded even where it recreates an original spot-welded seam (like the bottom flange). I'm scratching my head a little about what to do about this - just seam welding the top edge (which would effectively turn it into a full replacement panel) isn't acceptable but I really do NOT want to start re-welding a neat, secure and rot-free lower flange Ok what I would do is this. Weld up the top in a nice neat seam. and grind it back absolutly flush. Paint over so that the weld is invisible and leave the bottom. If done well enough which I know you can the tester will have no idea its ever been repaired. Oh and as you well know what the tester can't see or feel he cant test
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Post by spunkymonkey on Mar 13, 2012 17:38:54 GMT
The only slight problem with that is that the top seam's been overlapped so no way of grinding it completely flat. Can definitely see a similar approach using a sheet-steel thickness of filler though Still a lot more work that I'd rather not be doing for no engineering good reason
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Post by spunkymonkey on Mar 19, 2012 18:26:57 GMT
A bit more bodywork done and a refitted engine since the last update, so he's coming along slowly! The o/s/f wing is now basically finished: and the repair under the window is ready to start painting: In fact, it now has the first couple of top-coats on but I didn't get a photo of that His engine also went back in yesterday, and seems very happy. It's nice to have him starting on the key rather than bits of loose wire under the bonnet! I've removed about 15 foot of assorted "accessory" wiring so everything's back to standard now and he no longer tries to set fire to his dashboard when you turn the key. Which is probably a good thing I'll let the few pictures of the engine going in do the talking - it was quite a struggle to get enough angle on it to clear everything on the way in and still be able to get the prop engaged but, once the prop was in, it was a nice straightforward refit overall : i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/bigAngle.jpg[/IMG] i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/almostIn.jpg[/IMG] i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/rememberPropshaft.jpg[/IMG] No water or oil leaks and how's that for a start-on-the-button? All I'd done was fill the carb and was rewarded by an instant start On the down side, he decided to blow one of his spotlights to thank me. Been hunting and it looks like those 5 1/4 inch sealed beam units are completely unavailable, with no "conversion" to bulbs available either Waiting to hear back on the size of BMW E34 5-series units which ARE available and must be pretty close - they measure 5 1/2 inch including the chrome trim but couldn't really go pulling the trim off some random car by the roadside to check the unit size ;D
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mattsdafs
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Post by mattsdafs on Mar 20, 2012 15:06:08 GMT
Nice work there Joe and well done so far...I have those spots in stock,believe new or failing that we have a v66 sat outside with good 1`s in
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Post by dafdaffer on Mar 20, 2012 23:17:28 GMT
Looking good Joe, I also think that i have one of those lights...think... unless i gave it the essex guys. Ps im liking the black nail varnish ;D
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Mar 21, 2012 21:31:18 GMT
It's fetching isn't it? Doesn't seem to last too well though Got a few more bits done today, and found a few more frustrations thanks to previous welding repairs. Crawling under the back to get the fuel tank out (more of that in a bit) I found this: i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/springHangerSpotWelded.jpg[/IMG] Not a great repair considering that's the n/s rear spring hanger it's (not) welded to! To be fair, it's behind the hanger so doesn't really add anything to the strength but it's all going to need cleaning off and seam welding to keep a tester happy nowadays. Found much the same on the driver's floor so that's now 1x sill, 1x floor, 1x front wheel arch and 1x rear spring hanger that need reworking. The annoying bit is that it's all completely solid as it is, just not up to what's expected The tank was out because he wouldn't pump fuel, even with a new fiver's worth put, but would pump from a can under the bonnet. That suggested a hole somewhere in the fuel line and, sure enough, there was this inside of the bend of the tank's take-off pipe: i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/tankConnectorHole.jpg[/IMG] Fortunately, that was a simple fix with a bit of chemical metal: i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/tankRepair.jpg[/IMG] Encasing it like that may be a bit of overkill but it will give extra support and I'd rather not get it all back together then find it hasn't been effective While under there I also had a look at the CV boots. The inners seem to be ok but, as usual it seems, the outers have suffered pretty badly: i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/osGaiter.jpg[/IMG] i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/nsGaiter.jpg[/IMG] Got a couple on order from EBay. They're neoprene ones and I was curious what the quality's like - plus they come complete with grease and clips. At about £15 the pair (delivered) it's not the end of the world if they turn out to be junk! Finally, while getting the tank out it turned out there was about 2 gallons (at a guess) of old fuel in there. I've never really subscribed to the "stale fuel" theory - if it still burns it's still good as far as I'm concerned - so naturally I had to test it scientifically: Seems to work for me ;D
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Post by Patrick on Mar 22, 2012 20:45:02 GMT
It's fetching isn't it? Doesn't seem to last too well though Got a few more bits done today, and found a few more frustrations thanks to previous welding repairs. Crawling under the back to get the fuel tank out (more of that in a bit) I found this: i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/springHangerSpotWelded.jpg [/IMG] [/quote] Looks like you've got Stalactites forming there!
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Post by Nick the man with a daf.... on Mar 23, 2012 22:44:44 GMT
those neoprene boots are good, and last amazingly well.. we used to fit them at the garage, had an air powered spreader for doing it too.. put boot on prongs, press button.. boot now big enough to get arm through.. over joint press button .... job done
I too have to find some outer boots for REenie
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Mar 23, 2012 23:49:34 GMT
Well, the EBay ones listed for www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/reassembly/beltsFitted.jpgthe 66 don't fit so don't bother with them They have an 80mm "big" end but the joint is only 55m - a little too much to tuck under the clip. I think I can get away with tem for now by cutting off one of the crinkly bits, but it'll only be a short-term fix to get her back on road. I think I heard that the club do "proper" ones but may be mistaken. If not then according to the EMPI CV catalogue they're virtually the same size as Volvo 940 / 960 / S90 / V90 or Porsche 911 ('86 - '04 models). EMPI number 86-2200. Those are About 90 thou too big at the "big" end but that should be close enough as long as they're clipped well.
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33grinder
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Post by 33grinder on Mar 24, 2012 0:30:13 GMT
Club does indeed sell them, the original pukka thick rubber type.
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Mar 24, 2012 21:08:02 GMT
Got the shafts off today- can I have 2 new bolts please? ;D Two of the allen head bolts holding the o/s outer joint were rounded and didn't want to undo. The first damaged one came out as I hoped - weld in a short piece of allen key and undo with a socket: i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/allenKeyWelded.jpg[/IMG] Feeling confident, moved on to the last one and this happened: i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/allenKeyBroken.jpg[/IMG] Yes, it was so d**n tight it sheared off the key! That left it still tight with a stub of allen key that was too short to get a proper grip on. So I ended up welding the socket on as well, and beat the bugger! i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/socketWelded.jpg[/IMG] Strangely, all the bolts on the nearside one were easy! So, with the shaft off, it was time to remove the circlip: i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/jointCirclip.jpg[/IMG] i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/removeCirclip.jpg[/IMG] and tap the joint off the shaft: i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/tapJointOff.jpg[/IMG] Note that this doesn't need much force - you should be able to just slide it off but a gentle tap helps with any stickiness after it's been on for any time. Once the joint's off, it was given a quick clean-up and refilled with the grease from the boot kit, then the cut-down replacement boot fitted. The metal clips that came with the joint are hopeless (especially after cutting the boot) so tie-wraps it was. Note that the thin tie-wraps are only there to make sure it fits - will be buying some proper sized ones tomorrow i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/shaftComplete.jpg[/IMG] A quick check with the joint fully extended and fully flexed shows that there's plenty of movement available in the new boot, even after cutting it down by one crinkly bit: i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/bootExtended.jpg[/IMG] So progress, but still not as fast as it needs to be if he'll be rolling by May!
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spunkymonkey
Likes DAFs
Currently waltzing Matilda
Posts: 3,482
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Post by spunkymonkey on Mar 25, 2012 18:57:22 GMT
Got the other boot changed today (with proper size tie wraps now) and made a start on joining the dots on his patches today. Lots of problems with the wire feed on my cheapo gas-less mig, combined with a fairly good coating of wax everywhere that was a git to clean off, meant that it didn't end up exactly neat but it is (more or less) continuous and a coat of seam sealer + underseal should sort the aesthetics out ok: i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/nsSpringMountRear.jpg[/IMG] i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/nsSpringMountFront.jpg[/IMG] On the plus side, the bit behind the o/s rear spring hanger which was feeling like badly-done fibreglass turns out to have been underseal coming away from surface rust and I didn't make any holes cleaning it up (it feels a little thin but should be good for this year). On the minus side, I just had to go digging round the o/s mount itself with that rust-divining screwdriver didn't I? i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/osSpringMount.jpg[/IMG] This is fast turning into a weldathon But Sian adores him so what can I do? ;D Ho hum!
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Post by dafdaffer on Mar 25, 2012 19:39:17 GMT
i should have a load of them bolts if you want some
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spunkymonkey
Likes DAFs
Currently waltzing Matilda
Posts: 3,482
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Post by spunkymonkey on Mar 26, 2012 19:46:29 GMT
Thanks Paul, I think there's a pair on its way from Essex but if not I'll let you know Feeling a little more cheerful about the old thing today anyway Got the seam sealer and underseal out so that the n/s hanger area now looks like this: i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/nsHangerRear.jpg[/IMG] i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/nsHangerFront.jpg[/IMG] and a bit of welding, sealant and seal has the hole I found on the o/s looking solid, if not pretty: i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/osHanger.jpg[/IMG] Once he's on road and the lift is (hopefully) back in action it'd be nice to cut both hangers out and replace the whole box sections bt I'm NOT doing that in the next month or two lying on my back ;D Cheered up by getting somewhere with that stuff, I pulled the o/s brake drum to have a look. The drum and shoes are all good, but the cylinder was solid: i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/drumAndShoes.jpg[/IMG] Broke the pipe taking it off - no surprise there and no great drama to replace it: i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/shearedBrakePipe.jpg[/IMG] Got the pistons out, they look ok and so do the seal: i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/brakeCylinder.jpg[/IMG] but the bore is a little past honing i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/Charlie_D_Brown/Boris the%20Daf%2066%20Marathon%20Coupe/brakeCylinderBore.jpg[/IMG] That worried me because I've seen the problems people have had finding cylinders for some of the later models but a quick check with Brake Parts International when I got home has them listing these ones at a very reasonable £7 + VAT each. Guess the sun's shining today ;D
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spunkymonkey
Likes DAFs
Currently waltzing Matilda
Posts: 3,482
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Post by spunkymonkey on Mar 27, 2012 20:26:18 GMT
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