kenr
Likes DAFs
Vee the 33
Posts: 734
|
Post by kenr on Oct 4, 2011 18:15:44 GMT
Phew! All found and ordered. Total cost a not unreasonable £48.38 all inclusive.
Joe, I will be there on the Saturday and got the Resto Show on the Sunday. Busy, busy, busy.
Thanks again Joe.
|
|
spunkymonkey
Likes DAFs
Currently waltzing Matilda
Posts: 3,482
|
Post by spunkymonkey on Oct 4, 2011 18:27:27 GMT
Well, if you're at the resto show the next day I could just supply instructions and let you amaze them if you prefer
|
|
33grinder
Likes DAFs
CHPD* sufferer (*Compulsive Heap Purchasing Disorder)
Posts: 2,905
|
Post by 33grinder on Oct 4, 2011 19:57:09 GMT
I'm planning a visit too Joe and looking forward to catching up. I have a little treat for Snowdrop that should see her poltergeist banished for good, fingers crossed.
|
|
kenr
Likes DAFs
Vee the 33
Posts: 734
|
Post by kenr on Oct 4, 2011 20:10:18 GMT
Errrrrrm, no. No. That wouldn't bode well for Vee's electrical happiness. Trust me on that one lol+++.
|
|
kenr
Likes DAFs
Vee the 33
Posts: 734
|
Post by kenr on Oct 8, 2011 15:17:56 GMT
Work commenced on repairing Vee this morning. The bonnet was pushed back into position with a pretty good outcome. The only downside is that near to the n/s hinge, there was an old repair made with filler. This has now dislodged and exposed a significant amount of rust.
The headlight has been removed and so has the indicator assembly. Further investigation showed that Vee had a knock in more or less the same point at some stage in the past. This resulted in the headlight mounting ring having being buckled and its 'lip' folded over in a couple of points. The headlight bulb connectors were broken and the bulb has now been removed.
The indicator lens was broken but the unit itself was completely intact. A simple replacement lens will bring that back to normal.
The grille was removed. All of the mounting bolts undid easily, one or two were a little loose which again showed that it had been removed at some point (to my eyes anyway). The damaged just popped out and a couple of swift taps straightened a few errant bits. It took longer to to take out than actually fix. No paint damage was noted, although it does show a few old battle scars.
The bumper was undamaged, as was the number plate.
The damage to the headlight surround section and indicator panel was pushed out using bits of wood and the Amica scissor jack. Looking around in there confirmed old hammer marks from the previous repair. The impellor housing is missing the round mesh grille and there are no fins left on the impellor itself. This is not new damage and looks like the previous repairers just didn't replace it from the original incident.
Everything seems to line up, however, old filler has cracked and popped out in places. This will be cleaned up, rust proofed and painted.
2 or 3 hours saw most of the damage resolved. I just have to make good with an amount of filler and paint.
Vee started on the 2nd turn of the key and ran quite happily. I have bought a couple of leads (one earth and the other positive cable which goes to the solenoid) and a couple of new battery connectors as the others were looking tired and loose, despite being tightened as much as possible.
The 6v halogen 'kit' will be sorted at some point and I even gave the seats a bit of a clean.
I will post some photos shortly.
I am a little shaken by the bump even though it was at low speed and damage wasn't too bad. Vee and I are at a 'neutral point' at the moment. We'll see what happens.
|
|
kenr
Likes DAFs
Vee the 33
Posts: 734
|
Post by kenr on Oct 27, 2011 15:37:55 GMT
I am now in possesion of a good bonnet and a NOS headlight/indicator mounting panel.
I suppose that to do the job properly, I should try and obtain a new O/S wing given the amount of damage that the front section has obtained over the years.
I would imagine that Danny is the best person to ask about this perhaps?
The plan is to also replace the tyres, fit a new engine earth strap to see if that makes a difference to Vee's reluctant starting. Joe was willing to help with a fettling of the starter motor internal gubbins when he has a moment too.
Thanks hugely to all concerned with regards to help re: panels and offers of panels/bits and hands on help with other issues.
I wil be doing some more work on Vee at the weekend and I promise to take piccies.
Thanks everyone.
Ken
|
|
33grinder
Likes DAFs
CHPD* sufferer (*Compulsive Heap Purchasing Disorder)
Posts: 2,905
|
Post by 33grinder on Oct 27, 2011 19:18:16 GMT
I would be inclined to go to Danny. He won't have a NOS wing though but a repair panel may be possible like I have to go on Gavina - a used headlight surround still welded to the front wing and cut before the front arch. From what I remember Vee's damage doesn't necessarily need a whole wing. You could try the DCN but I doubt it will be cheap. Plus you need membership, or a friend with membership, before they will sell you anything.
|
|
kenr
Likes DAFs
Vee the 33
Posts: 734
|
Post by kenr on Oct 27, 2011 21:32:27 GMT
Hiya Pete, I was wondering about a front 'repair section' but then wondered about the possibility of there being masses of filler elsewhere on the wing where the weldy bit would need to go. Not a major hassle but a mild faff. Would be the cheapest way forward though.
|
|
kenr
Likes DAFs
Vee the 33
Posts: 734
|
Post by kenr on Oct 29, 2011 11:39:18 GMT
Hi John, I have most of the bits from Basher: bonnet and indicator/headlight surround which makes life a lot easier. I'd hate to take a useful full wing off someone in case someone else needed it in an emergency, If Howard has a scrap wing that could yield a front section, then that is a much better proposition.
|
|
kenr
Likes DAFs
Vee the 33
Posts: 734
|
Post by kenr on Oct 29, 2011 13:57:00 GMT
Ha! Ordered a pair of V for Vendetta stickers this afternoon. Oh how I love that film and it should look quite nifty on Vee!
|
|
kenr
Likes DAFs
Vee the 33
Posts: 734
|
Post by kenr on Oct 30, 2011 15:24:58 GMT
I managed to start Vee with a little assist from a starter pack. She trundled her way to the garage and proceded to sit there for a while just ticking over whilst I brushed away all of the dust from the previous bodywork episode. Here's a snap of the rear end, complete with shiny FRL sticker: Hope you like the new stainless rear light screws. Don't they look cool? What do you mean you can't see them? Anyway, here is a shot of the old dealer sticker that looked to have fallen of some time ago. A bit of a clean and on she went. The ED sticker will also be put on soon. The Dafhobby sticker is on the o/s rear screen and looks quite cool. I put on a new earth strap as it was one of the possible suggestions put forward as to the 'rrrrrrr r r r r r r r r r r r r click' noise that has greeted every attempt to start Vee upon leaving Essex Daf Central. Maybe she is trying to tell me something. Maybe Essex Dafs can only work whilst in Essex? Something to do with a bizarre mixture of ley lines, Essex chickens and Matts tea. Who knows? Seems like the starter motor is at death's door, however, help is at hand at a point in the near future, once more important things have been sorted. Re
|
|
33grinder
Likes DAFs
CHPD* sufferer (*Compulsive Heap Purchasing Disorder)
Posts: 2,905
|
Post by 33grinder on Oct 30, 2011 16:17:32 GMT
Good to see her out and about Ken. I think a reconditioned starter is next in line to sort out her starting issues.
|
|
kenr
Likes DAFs
Vee the 33
Posts: 734
|
Post by kenr on Oct 30, 2011 16:29:35 GMT
I do hope so as I have a can of petrol and some matches lurking somewhere.
|
|
kenr
Likes DAFs
Vee the 33
Posts: 734
|
Post by kenr on Nov 1, 2011 23:18:03 GMT
Had another key cut for the petrol cap as I only had the one and knowing my luck......!!!!!
This weekend might see some work on the grille to try and straighten it further. Might fit a bit more Vee bling too.
|
|
spunkymonkey
Likes DAFs
Currently waltzing Matilda
Posts: 3,482
|
Post by spunkymonkey on Nov 2, 2011 8:35:18 GMT
Starter is first on the list once we've finished moving stuff, Ken Will probably be a couple more weeks though I'm afraid - should be in next Monday but can't live out of boxes (apparently)
|
|
kenr
Likes DAFs
Vee the 33
Posts: 734
|
Post by kenr on Nov 2, 2011 8:45:04 GMT
No sweat Joe, your time is much better focused at the moment on the move to/into your new home!
How far have you got with the move and settling in?
|
|
spunkymonkey
Likes DAFs
Currently waltzing Matilda
Posts: 3,482
|
Post by spunkymonkey on Nov 2, 2011 10:35:30 GMT
Carpets are down, walls painted and we've started shuffling boxes in the cars. Hope to be getting a van tomorrow to shift the big stuff but wondering if we're quite ready for it yet.
Wibble!
|
|
kenr
Likes DAFs
Vee the 33
Posts: 734
|
Post by kenr on Nov 5, 2011 16:01:58 GMT
Progress is progress my friend. I'm pleased for you both to at last get the accommodation thing sorted. Congrats.
Had a visit from Andrew today in his brown 33. What a nice chap! He bravely let me have a go of Pooh and oh what a different car. Very nippy indeed and despite his protests, much more aggressive anchors than Vee's. I actually had a grin on my chops when we got back.
I think an overhaul of the brakes with some new shoes and so on is in order. What a difference and they gave me much more Daf orientated confidence. Oddly Vee started just as Pooh (and Andrew) pulled up outside the lock up. Spooky or what!
Andrew made an observation or two whilst looking over the car. Firstly, the revs at idle were too high. This was lowered slightly but they still remained above what they should be.
Secondly, the high idle had the effect of making the visible clutch thingy at the back of the engine spin. I believe that this shouldn't be happening (what do I know).
Can anyone advise please 'cos I really can't afford a new set of clutch shoes :0(
|
|
pauldaf44
Likes DAFs
Totally addicted to quirky tat
Posts: 2,068
|
Post by pauldaf44 on Nov 5, 2011 17:07:48 GMT
No the clutch drum should not be spinning at idle. If you put a block of wood on it can you stop it and does it start spinning again. You should be able to and it should restart spinning.
As for the high idle Gladys used to have the same problem and it was due to the ignition timing being to far advanced so it might be an idea to reset that. Would also make her a bit less sprightly than she should be.
On the brakes have you adjusted the shoes the adjusters are manual all around after all.
|
|
kenr
Likes DAFs
Vee the 33
Posts: 734
|
Post by kenr on Nov 5, 2011 17:11:42 GMT
Ok Will do Ok Hmm, will need help with that. No, will need help with that too
Nrrgghhhh!
Thanks Paul.
|
|
pauldaf44
Likes DAFs
Totally addicted to quirky tat
Posts: 2,068
|
Post by pauldaf44 on Nov 5, 2011 20:52:07 GMT
Here you are Ken How to adjust brakes a little how to a did a while back First remove the hubcap for this a flat head screwdriver with a decent length shaft is ideal then slacken off the wheel nuts with a suitable breaker bar Now jack the car up. I have used the factory jacking point as I know its strong. If you are not sure use the subframe. Now remove the wheel completly. I like to use a half inch ratchet to quickly wind the nuts off For safety it is a good idea to use an axle stand. Where mine is put is a good strong location and the stand is unlikely to slip under heavy torques Now thats is done. Place a 17mm socket onto the adjuster nut, a 3/8 drive is ideal for this. Turn the adjuster untill the hub locks and back it off so that the hub just starts too turn. Repeat this for the other adjuster Thats your brakes adjusted. Refit the wheel and do the nuts up finger tight. This is done so that the wheel goes on squarely. Lower the car back to the ground and tighten the wheel nuts properly. This being a 3 stud wheel it doesn't really matter which order you torque up. On most wheels remember to torque across the wheel. Then refit the hubcap and move on to the next wheel. If like me you find that the adjusters wont turn on the next wheel you may need to follow these steps. first remove the little circlip and withdraw the grease cap. Use a 24mm socket to undo the nut that holds the wheel on. Now withdraw the brake drum be carefull not to lose the bearing and retainer or to get them dirty. They will pop out as you remove the drum. This is the front wheel bearing which you may as well inspect and replace if worn. With the drum off you now need to disconnect the brake line. Undo this union and remove the flexi from the back of the cylinder. If you just try to undo the flexi you will collapse the pipe as it twists. Now you need to dissasemble the brakes. So that it goes from this to this The 4 bolts in the centre need to be undone and then the back plate can be removed. There is a nut on the back that you need to hold otherwise your bolt will just spin. Once your done it should look like this. I cleaned that up as I dont like rust! If like me your nuts wont turn despite copious ammounts of penertrating fluid and heat you may need to use one of these on the nut. You place it around the nut with the blade in the middle of a flat face and then tighten till the nut splits in half. Of course you will now need new nuts and bolts. Now that the back plate is off you need to swap the slave cylinder onto the new plate. There are 2 10mm bolts holding it on. Now bolt the new plate onto the hub. You now need to reassemble the brakes and fit the drum. This is where taking a photo of how it looked before is handy if you are unsure. Dont forget to smear the stub shaft with plenty of grease. Now take the bearing and retainer and press them in. It must go in the right way around or the wheel will lock! This photo shows what it will look like if its the wrong way around With the bearing the right way around it will press in flush with the drum. Then screw the 24mm hub nut back on tight but not too tight. tap in the grease cap and refit the circlip. Now you can adjust the brakes up as before Now refit the wheel as before and bleed the brakes and enjoy having a nice firm pedal again.
|
|
pauldaf44
Likes DAFs
Totally addicted to quirky tat
Posts: 2,068
|
Post by pauldaf44 on Nov 5, 2011 21:11:58 GMT
To set ignition timing
Static method.
1. Locate the timing marks on the crank pulley. Should be visible from the passenger side of the engine
2. remove the distributor cap and turn the engine untill the timing marks on the pulley and the block align.
3. connect a test lamp to the coil to dizzy wire and to ground
4. Slacken the dizzy clamp
5. Switch on the ignition but don't start the engine.
6. Now turn the distributor untill the light just comes on.
7. Reclamp the dizzy and enjoy freshly set timing.
To set dynamically you will need a timing strobe but it will also give a more accurate result.
1. Connect the timing light to the battery and to ground to supply the power. The inductive pickup needs to be around the ht lead of cylinder 1.
2. Slacken the distributor clamp and start the engine this needs to be done with a warm engine.
3. Point the timing strobe at the timing marks and pull the trigger.
4. Turn the distributor body by hand untill the marks appear to line up.
5. Switch off and clamp up the dizzy.
You can also check that the advance mechanism is working with the strobe. When the engine is revved up the timing marks should appear to seperate and then go back together again as you let off the throttle.
|
|
kenr
Likes DAFs
Vee the 33
Posts: 734
|
Post by kenr on Nov 5, 2011 23:14:33 GMT
Thanks for taking the time and effort to put all of that on there Paul. That is hugely appreciated.
Ken
|
|
kenr
Likes DAFs
Vee the 33
Posts: 734
|
Post by kenr on Nov 5, 2011 23:28:27 GMT
Ha! The 'V for Vendetta' stickers arrived from California this morning. Hehehehehe!
|
|
pauldaf44
Likes DAFs
Totally addicted to quirky tat
Posts: 2,068
|
Post by pauldaf44 on Nov 6, 2011 10:02:48 GMT
Thanks for taking the time and effort to put all of that on there Paul. That is hugely appreciated. Ken What are daffers for if not to help each other? Im sure you'd have done the same for me if the shoe was on the other foot
|
|
andrew
Likes DAFs
Posts: 1,117
|
Post by andrew on Nov 6, 2011 21:24:31 GMT
Thanks for taking the time and effort to put all of that on there Paul. That is hugely appreciated. Ken What are daffers for if not to help each other? Im sure you'd have done the same for me if the shoe was on the other foot Even a brake shoe??? ;D ;D
|
|
kenr
Likes DAFs
Vee the 33
Posts: 734
|
Post by kenr on Nov 6, 2011 21:52:20 GMT
Doh!
|
|
mattsdafs
Likes DAFs
Yolanda, 55 estate
Posts: 374
|
Post by mattsdafs on Nov 7, 2011 9:11:46 GMT
ken,are you up this coming saturday?,apart from picking up dave`s parts haul,im sure we can take a look at vee..also a certain white 44 which is now back together needs its brakes looked at ..but dont tell it or it will think of something else for me to do to it
|
|
kenr
Likes DAFs
Vee the 33
Posts: 734
|
Post by kenr on Nov 7, 2011 13:26:21 GMT
Would love to pop over mate but Ben is back today and we are driving him back to Norwich on Saturday. Would make you very welcome in North London on Sunday lol+++++. I'd even buy a kettle!
|
|
pauldaf44
Likes DAFs
Totally addicted to quirky tat
Posts: 2,068
|
Post by pauldaf44 on Nov 7, 2011 19:13:59 GMT
Ken, A kettle is not enough, you'd need an urn minimum. ;D Neither are nessesary as Matt would be driving to Kens in a full on water boiler My its even got a kettle under the bonnet *ducks the blow and runs*
|
|