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Post by newwy66 on Jan 14, 2020 15:17:25 GMT
Ok, so now I have had the V66 for a few weeks and just getting to know her, there are a few little jobs that I am beginning to evaluate for when the weather gets a bit warmer in the Spring. This weather the past few days has not been conducive to 'Daffing'...very wet and windy here...and cold. Anyway, the list of jobs in no particular order is as follows: Get spotlights working Remove seats and re-felt under the carpet and wash carpet New tyres Drivers seat doesn't pull down...mechanism not working Passenger door is slightly troublesome...doesn't close properly...needs a whack to close it and a thunderous shouldering to open it! (was an old MOT failure at one point) Both window winders are a bit stiff Both side mirrors need painting Windscreen wipers need painting Radio fitted I think that will be enough to be getting on with...there is more of course...always more things to do with an old car. If anyone has any good ideas with regard to the above, then please do tell. The car is a very solid car and drives fine, just these numerous little jobs to be sorted out to take her to the next level. There is a little job I have been doing over the past few days. Both rear light clusters were leaking because the rubber gasket had started to perish so I removed both clusters and got a piece of neoprene rubber sheet and cut my own out, using the old ones as a template...worked a treat. formed a nice tight seal on the cluster and now the boot is completely dry. A great test for it yesterday when it absolutely peed down all day. I checked it this morning and it was bone dry. One little job done. See pics....
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Post by newwy66 on Jan 14, 2020 15:22:55 GMT
Oh yes...the 3 'holes' or blanking plates on the console...( see photo's in opening post) I would like gauges for them...what do you think? Vacuum gauge, clock? Can't be having 3 blanks on the console! I would need someone to do this...probably beyond my capabilities. Anyone know a good auto electrician in the Merseyside area?
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Post by newwy66 on Jan 14, 2020 15:45:24 GMT
Perished rubber
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Post by newwy66 on Jan 14, 2020 15:53:44 GMT
test
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Post by newwy66 on Jan 14, 2020 15:55:33 GMT
just testing photo uploads...
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andrew
Likes DAFs
Posts: 1,097
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Post by andrew on Jan 14, 2020 19:09:53 GMT
I owned a lovely yellow 1300cc Daf 66 "Marathon" over 30 years ago (and REALLY regret selling it on!) and I remember the central switch of the 3 in the panel controlled the spot lamps. I left the switch in the "on" position permanently and the spot lamps then simply came on when the main beam was selected (or the headlights were flashed) and they were VERY bright. Mine also had a vacuum gauge in the central panel.
I also had a Daf 66 accessories brochure, which showed the panel with 3 switches; one for the spot lamps (as already explained) and the other two were for a rear fog lamp (fitted opposite the reversing lamp) and the third switch was for front fog lamps. By the way, modern regulations would mean wiring the fog lamps in such a way that the front fog lamps could only be illuminated when the side lamps are on and the rear fog lamp can only be illuminated when the front fog lamps are on. Happy to advise further if needed!
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Post by newwy66 on Jan 14, 2020 19:58:02 GMT
I have read that a vacuum gauge is very useful in Variomatics. Looks nice, anyway... Way beyond my capabilities though. I would have to get someone to install them for me.
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Post by swissdave on Jan 14, 2020 21:29:04 GMT
I think the vacuum gauge is a good idea, a temperature gauge is a worthwhile addition, the standard warning light is actually a head gasket failure light, by the time that’s lit it’s too late. 😂 A sensor housing like this; rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F321829784970 can be purchased cheaply from eBay and fitted in the radiator top hose. I’m not sure of the hose id, I seem to remember 32mm but you’ll need to check.
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Post by newwy66 on Jan 14, 2020 22:01:19 GMT
Yes, they would certainly be useful additions...and would look nice too. thanks for the link. I wouldn't know what to do with it mind. As said, I would have to get someone to do it.
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Post by starider on Jan 15, 2020 0:08:10 GMT
My three gauges of preference would be vacuum gauge,temperature gauge and oil pressure.All three should be fairly easy to fit.A good source of all styles of gauges is Europa Spares. They supply a huge range of motor parts and supply to the club racing community,kit car builders[especially Cobra replicas].If you want to look at their range they are on line or if you want to browse at your leisure they will supply a catalogue.Have used them for years.........starider
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Post by newwy66 on Jan 15, 2020 12:56:27 GMT
Thanks starider...will have a look at them online.
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gromsound
Likes DAFs
Everything Must Work
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Post by gromsound on Jan 15, 2020 17:28:07 GMT
The V66 console face in the pic is upside down! 4 self tapping screws on the sides to correct that. A vac meter on the primary upshift vacuum line is indeed very useful. it will not only let you drive most economical (see the effect of playing with the acc pedal) also you can immediately see a failing seal or valve even in the begin stadium. ALL my dafs have a vac gauge as standard.
The middle ''hole'' is larger to accommodate a rev counter. useless in a daf but maybe nice to monitor the clutch wear (slipping rev value will slowly increase). in my coupe i have the vacmeter, a clock and the Jaeger rev counter from a citroen GSX. oil temp may also be nice, so you know when you can floor it ;-)
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Post by newwy66 on Jan 15, 2020 20:01:52 GMT
Hi gromsound Thanks for your message. Wow...is that console really upside down? Crikey, I didn't realise...lol !! Don't know how the heck that happened. Strange one. The old boy who owned it for 40 odd years must have done something...ha. I will put it right. Yes, I would love to get some gauges sorted out...I will get an auto electrician to sort it out for me.
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Post by newwy66 on Jan 15, 2020 20:20:09 GMT
Ah..ok. Just had a look at the owners handbook re: the console. The right hand drive versions were different to the left hand drive ones...see photo's.. Bottom photo is left hand drive
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gromsound
Likes DAFs
Everything Must Work
Posts: 82
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Post by gromsound on Jan 18, 2020 9:54:22 GMT
Ah of course! In the RHD version the panel is turned upside down originally from the factory. The reason is that the dials are slightly angled towards the driver (look carefully at the surrounding edges). So this way DAF did not have to make/buy a special mirrored part. Dutchmen are the Scots of the continent you know :-) On the down side, the large revcounter will be even more difficult to read, since it sits a but under the lower dash edge. Well, is of no use anyway in a CVT car. Just noticed Daf didn't even edit the original user manual (page 21) just added a pic for RHD at the end. Economics!
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Post by newwy66 on Jan 18, 2020 23:56:32 GMT
lol...yes, at first I thought there was something wrong when you said it was upside down. Had to check the booklet...ha,ha. ''Dutchmen are the Scots of the continent you know :-''
My next door neighbours are Dutch!!
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Post by newwy66 on Jan 19, 2020 0:25:40 GMT
Nice and sunny here today...a good day for 'Daffing' ! Sorted out the sticking door and stiff window winder. Removed the door card and cleaned all the bits then greased and lubed the winder mechanism and the locking catch. The door catch took a bit of fettling and I completely messed up one of the screws...the head fecked up. Had to whack it with a hammer whilst turning the screwdriver...eventually got it out. Will have to get a replacement. The door now closes and opens as it should. All good fun. Frosty morning so was a stubborn start...see video, she usually fires first time.
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andrew
Likes DAFs
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Post by andrew on Jan 19, 2020 13:47:03 GMT
Your Volvo 66 has quarter lights, which the Daf 66 didn't have. The window winders on my various Daf 66 cars were always hard work, which I pit down to them having to lift a huge piece of glass that didn't sit in a forward runner for very long. Your 66 has the glass in 2 runners all the way up, which I expect helps a great deal.
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Post by newwy66 on Jan 19, 2020 17:27:13 GMT
didn't realise that Andrew...the passenger side is now much better after some greasing. Do I need to add a lead additive in the petrol?
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andrew
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Post by andrew on Jan 19, 2020 17:36:09 GMT
Yes, the water-cooled Dafs do need an additive if they're run on unleaded fuel. However, if the car does low mileage and isn't pushed too hard I wouldn't worry too much about it. If the head gasket becomes damaged at any time you'll have to remove the head, so at that point I would have the valve seats hardened for unleaded fuel, but otherwise the adage "if it ain't bust, don't fix it" might be the best bet!
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Post by newwy66 on Jan 19, 2020 19:22:38 GMT
Ok Andrew, thanks. I will leave it alone for the time being. I have been using Super Unleaded as it has a higher octane level (96).
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Post by andrejuan on Jan 21, 2020 19:07:59 GMT
Ok Andrew, thanks. I will leave it alone for the time being. I have been using Super Unleaded as it has a higher octane level (96). Regarding fuel, I am far from an expert but my understanding is.. the higher rated fuels are only beneficial to high compression performance engines. The rating relates directly to the amount of compession needed to aid ignition. Our DAF engines are not particularly high comp. and therefore run better on a good quality lower octane fuel. If you can get the fuel recommended in the handbook I would stick to that, if you have a pinking problem then "up" it a bit? Someone will put me right if I am off the mark I think.
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Post by newwy66 on Jan 21, 2020 19:40:00 GMT
I don't appear to be having any issues regarding the fuel but then I am no expert. Just looking at the handbook it states...'66DL 1.1 ltr engine min. octane 91 and the 66GL 1.3 Ltr engine use Premium grade petrol, min 96 octane'. So Super Unleaded is 97 octane and ordinary unleaded is about 94/95 octane. I don't suppose it makes that much difference really. Maybe I should just get an additive and put some in every other fill up? If it ain't broke...don't fix it?
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Post by Richard DAF Webmeister on Jan 21, 2020 22:18:01 GMT
Ever since leaded petrol was withdrawn, I've always used Castrol Valvemaster fuel additive in my water-cooled and air-cooled DAFs.
It replaces the "cushioning" that lead gave to the moving bits in the engine.
Always keep a bottle in the boot, and then every time I put petrol in, I put put the necessary few drops in.
Important to note that once you start using one type/make of fuel additive, then you stick with it. I.e. try not to use other makes/brands.
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Post by newwy66 on Jan 21, 2020 23:02:45 GMT
Thanks for info guys. Damn...I had a bottle of that stuff in my shed for years from when my Dad used to run Morris Minors. It was there for 10 plus years and I only lashed it recently...typical. it's not cheap stuff.
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