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Post by zebadee on Apr 5, 2024 13:34:27 GMT
Hi all I’m having real trouble with my car bogging down on acceleration I’ve tried a carb kit set the jets as per specs. Checked for vac leaks replaced the fuel pump dizzy coil ht leads cleaned points new condenser new plugs. The car does as it should apart from this bogging under load tried air mixture. Running out of things to check. I’ve found a 32 Solex SEIA for a 1.1 my car is the Volvo 66 1.3 gl am I right in thinking that the only difference would be the main jet size?
thank you in advance.
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Post by swissdave on Apr 6, 2024 7:49:03 GMT
Hi, unless the engine has been changed from standard you wouldn't need to change any jets. It could be a blocked jet so worth checking, also check float height in the carb.
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andrew
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Post by andrew on Apr 6, 2024 12:10:20 GMT
When the car's warmed up & is ticking over happily spray some WD40 around the carburettor. Removal of the spare wheel might help, as it's buried under it! If the engine revs alter as you spray, you've Nan air leak somewhere in or around the carburettor. I'd start by doing this before delving into changing jets etc.
On Daf 66 cars there was a wire running from the carburettor body to the engine block, which earthed it and (I believe) conducted heat away from it, although I may not be quite right on this last point. It might be worth checking this wire's in place as well.
Another item worth checking is the action of the micro-switches that operate the vacuum valves. If they're not working properly you'll have all sorts of air leaks into the engine, causing uneven running and poor acceleration.
Report back for more help!
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Post by zebadee on Apr 6, 2024 14:04:57 GMT
Thank you both for your reply’s. I’ve checked float height done a carb strip down and clean with new carb kit put jets back to the way they should be in book the small wire is attached as it should be. The switches seem to work ok as I said car behaves as it should apart from the hesitation when pulling away hard. The pilot jet needed setting up just right as I think it may have been over tightened in the past this seems to be the thing that makes a major difference in running. Good tip on the wd40 I’ll give that a go and report back Thanks again.
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Post by zebadee on Apr 7, 2024 8:03:26 GMT
Hi I tried the wd40 and no air leaks I’m guessing the best course of action is to try and find a carburettor the one I found on line is for the 1100 not the 1300 could I swap the main jet from the carb in my car into the 1100 carb?
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andrew
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Post by andrew on Apr 7, 2024 13:51:48 GMT
I don't like the sound of that. If I were you I'd persevere with repairing the one that's designed to be on the car. Whereabouts are you? I can feel a "Daf rescue mission" coming on....
There are still a number of carburettor refurbishment companies around, although it's a dying art, as modern cars, if not 100% electric, certainly have a great deal of electrical fuel metering in them! Perhaps try spraying come carburettor cleaner into the air intake, which might dislodge any crud? I wouldn't recommend either removing the jets themselves and certainly not changing them for other ones, as what's on the car was designed to be there, even if it's not working properly at the moment.
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Post by zebadee on Apr 7, 2024 17:10:48 GMT
Hi Andrew The main jet on the carb will not come out anyway as someone has been in there and screwed the tread on it so I really think a new carb is in order. Graham from classic daf has hopefully sent a recon one out so with a bit of luck I should get that next week. Thank you for your help I’m a bit away from you and most daf owners as I’m in north Dorset. Cheers Matt
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Post by zebadee on Apr 11, 2024 6:36:44 GMT
Hi does anyone know if the solex 32 SEIA carb for the 1.1 will fit my car? not having much joy finding a 1.3 carb Thanks in advance Matt.
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Post by zebadee on Apr 21, 2024 8:35:21 GMT
Hi all I’ve finally got the car running well thanks to graham finding me a carb. Just a question do these cars rev high as normal? It almost feels like it is stuck in low ratio I’ve reset the micro switch checked for vacuum leaks. It gets up to 70mph no problem just feels like it revs really high I put new belts on when I got the car and adjusted them to spec yesterday but still runs the same. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance Matt
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andrew
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Post by andrew on Apr 21, 2024 12:14:07 GMT
If you've correctly adjusted the belt tension you'll have removed the major cause of a Daf over-revving. Confirming the vacuum system has no leaks deals with another cause of transmission problems, so you've dealt with the obvious things. Are you certain the micro-switches are correctly set? This is what should happen: with the ignition ON, but the engine OFF slowly depress the accelerator pedal; you should hear a distinct "click" at the beginning of the pedal's travel, as it's depressed. When the pedal is 'pushed to the floor" you should hear another "click". The first click is the micro-switch operating the vacuum valve and passing vacuum to the change-up side of the transmission. the second click is this valve closing, thus making the transmission 'kick-down' for sharper acceleration. If all of this is behaving as I've described, are you sure all the vacuum pipes are connected correctly, both at the vacuum valve AND at the transmission primary unit. It could be that the pipes are incorrectly connected and that the vacuum is actually trying to make the transmission change down instead of changing up. I repaired a 33 to which this had happened!
Finally, driving technique is a factor to consider. Once the car reaches reaches the desired speed, one should ease off the throttle. The speed should remain the same, but the transmission will change up, making the revs much lower. My 33 is fitted with a rev counter and this change takes place at about 25-30 mph, and I can hear the engine note change as the belts change up and see the rev counter drop away. As I remember from my numerous drives to Devon along the A303 the Wincanton bypass is fairly close to you, and similarly fairly flat, so a good road to test the car and one's driving technique.
A Daf rescue mission looms, perhaps combined with a weekend away in Devon...... I just need to persuade my current wife that this is a "GOOD" idea!
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Post by zebadee on Apr 21, 2024 12:49:36 GMT
Hi Andrew Seems that it might be the micro switch as it was changing ratio fine before I swapped the carb. It did fall apart when I went to put it on the new carb as it had a crack in it that someone taped up, so that would make sense I guess. As no click when pressing the gas.
Thanks Matt
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Post by zebadee on Apr 22, 2024 7:53:42 GMT
Hi Andrew I’ve done a test with the micro switch and it seems to be the cause I managed to get it working to test its driving and the ratio changed all be it a little out as the switch will need adjusting. I’ve ordered a new one so fingers crossed it should be running like a top soon. Thank you for the offer of help and the tip about the clicking with the engine off which it does now. Devon is a nice place to holiday we used to live in north Devon for a while nice part of the country. All the best Matt
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andrew
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Post by andrew on Apr 22, 2024 10:47:26 GMT
Devon is a nice place to holiday we used to live in north Devon for a while nice part of the country. All the best Matt Glad the car's "getting there" and I'm happy to advise further if necessary. It's a coincidence about north Devon; I was born in Barnstaple & grew up in Bideford, working at local V.W. dealer in the town for a few years where I learnt the motor trade-V.W. apprenticeships were considered very good! I still get back there on occasions to visit friends and family, although tempus fugit means these visits are less frequent now-a pity really!
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Post by zebadee on Apr 22, 2024 11:52:43 GMT
Hi Andrew Small world we used to live in umberleigh near Barnstable. Know it well much slower pace of life back then not been back there for many years.
Cheers Matt
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