New arrival in Luton.

[veeruk]

Just picked up my daily driver.



She will be called Anni-Frid. She will go very well with Bjorn and the Black Stallion. Just need another one now which I can name Agnetha. ;D

[33grinder]

Nice one Alex, and what a cracking registration number!

[Richard DAF Webmeister]

Mama Mia.

That's my old baby! What a super trouper it is.

I think I might cry.

But at least I know it's still around and where it is, and it's going on and on and on.

Voulez vous.

Well done you.

(Looks good doesn't it? I sold that in 1998)

[dafdaffer]

nice

[stefan]

Getting a nice collection of Daf 77s now then mate

[veeruk]

I know, guilty as charged. Maybe start a variomatic dealership. The Befordshire DAF centre lol

[veeruk]

Well, I think 20 m.p.g. might be a bit too much. She seems to be revving a lot i.e. thirty m.p.h. with 3000 revs and the throttle barely open. Any ideas?

[dafdaffer]

hi mate, check that the tachometric relay is working, also that throttle cable is not earthing out, the cable controls the relay,

also do the blow test as you may have a pipe off or damaged diapragm.

also check that the brake light switch is not stuck on

[stefan]

^^^^All good advice that, after that you will just have to invest in the oil companies because you will be keeping them going

[veeruk]

Thanks guys. I was hoping for a quick fix but guess that is out of the question. I was going to start with the blow test to check the diaphragms. I did not know about the throttle cable. It does sound like she wants to rev high when you just touch the throttle. Kick down is brilliant but it seems she wants to do it all the time and does not want to "relax" when you relieve the throttle.

[veeruk]

Well, here goes. I removed the 2 smaller hoses from the relay to do the blow test and I do get resistance and they blow back at me which means that the diaphragms are ok. The relay has been changed not too long ago and Ian, who I bought the car from, said that it had upchange problems before. They changed the relay twice and then he claimed that it was fixed. I have my doubts as she revs way to high and as soon as you touch the throttle she goes straight to 4000 rpm and kinda stays there.
The fat one coming in from the top of the pic goes to the carb so supplies the vacuum. The other fat one disappearing to the bottom of the pic goes to the clutch mechanism (I suspect as I have never looked at one of these before). The smaller hose on the top of the pic (left) goes to the rocker cover i.e. breather valve. When I start the engine and throttle it then the relay clicks. I think the bottom one (thin one) starts to suck when you move the throttle. However, the right one doesn't. I checked the relay on the 66 coupe and it seems to do the same thing. How can I check the relay is working properly or what else could be the matter with it causing her not to change up properly and use a bit less fuel?
Not checked the belt tension yet, but she seems to pull away ok without any noises and also her kick down is brilliant.

[Richard DAF Webmeister]

Hmm, not sure, but don't forget that there is a spare throttle cable in Bjorn's boot! *knowing look* should the need for a new cable have arisen.

[veeruk]

Thanks Richard. Had a look at the cable as well and it looks healthy. I think that it is more sinister than that.

[spunkymonkey]

And also that the hydraulic switch isn't permanently closed ?

[dafdaffer]

Thats correct MP, the brake switch is on the pedal, the switch on the master cylinder can stick on, although if only vacuum is coming from the pipe on left of the shot it wont be that either as the right hand side of the valve would be activated.

Alex did you remove both pipes from the valve at the same time? and did it hold air preesure for a period of time? as the vac cups can fail. although tbh i have never known a v340 have blown diapragms.

check that the clutch circuit is not loosing any vac pressure,

try and bypass the relay and fit a switch direct to change up side of the vac valve to see if the problem is somewhere else.

[veeruk]

Yikes. When you mentioned the gap in the pulleys for the belts, I automatically thought that they would be set right as it came with new belts (or so I was told) Whoever fitted the belts probably didn't know what they were doing as there was no gap at all. In fact, it took me a few turns of the adjustment screw to get any gap. It now has a gap between 1.5 and 2 mm although they are not equal. After a road test she now drops below 3000 revs (about 2500 and sounds happy there). I just hope that this now will bring her thirst for petrol down too.
Happy days. ;D

Oh, would anyone have a cover for the variomatic as this seems to be missing as well.

[veeruk]

Lesson learnt, always MIND THE GAP!