Forwards to grind gears, backwards to conk out...

[pete]

Hi,

I am a new member with a 33, although have previously owned another 33, alas locked in an abandoned workshop due to a legal dispute between the landlady and the person renting the workshop, but that is another story which I would rather not dwell on!!!

My last 33 was rotten as a peach but appart from a (total) lack of brakes it drove well.

My current 33 has a good shell but doesn't like to swap gears.

I start it in forwards drive but if I want to go into reverse it just grinds and won't release gear. My last 33 had this but putting the choke in would help reduce the revs and it would go in, but not with this one.

If I abandon all mechanical sympathy (which I hate to do) and simply ram it into gear it conks out with a metallicy spinning sound. Then if I turn the ignition then the car is trying to lurch backwards/or forwards, depending where the gear was moved to before it conks out. Then much swearing and pushing the lever back and forth occurs before (after much time) success is gained.

The cars' done about 39K miles and the problem is much alleviated when it's had a good run, although it will then allow a gear change it still crunches.

The previous owner replaced the propellor shaft as the rubber coupling was apparently shot and the car would go into gear but not transmit the power to the back wheels.

Has anyone got any ideas as this does marr the enjoyment of an otherwise perfectly good 33?

Cheers,

Pete.

[Richard DAF Webmeister]

First of all, as a fellow 33 owner - hang on there!

I'm not a very teccy person, but from the symptoms that you mention, I wonder whether your engine tickover is a tad too high?

You are doing absolutely the correct thing by starting the car "in gear". It's a common error by many that they think they have to start in "neutral".

The nature of the centrifugal clutch means that it starts to engage as the engine revs increase. I.e. it starts spinning when the engine is only doing about 750 RPM or so. So if your tickover is high, then it could be simply that. Hope so!

I'm sure that others will soon come to your assistance on here.

Good luck - keep us posted.

[Bob Scrivens]

Hi Pete and welcome, I would strongly suggest you take it easy with raming it into gear that is how the propshafts go.
First I would start with the engine, put the car into neutral and start the engine leave it to warm up, when nicely warmed up let it tick over for a minute, make sure the choke has fully returned at the carburetter.
The idling revs should be about 900rpm on the 33 and if you look at the rear of the engine the clutch drum should be stationary and not turning, if the rpm is right and the drum is turning, try stopping it by pressing a piece of wood on the drum. (Be carefull )
If you cannot stop it or it starts to turn when you take the wood away would indicate a problem with the clutch, which would mean removing the engine and clutch to see what is wrong in the clutch.
Try the above and let us know what you find.

Regards Bob.

[dafdaffer]

Hi Pete, sounds like high idling speed or floating shoe lining or weak springs in the clutch drum.

Paul