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Post by littlebelter on Mar 18, 2008 11:43:48 GMT
Well my manifold is well and truly split in way of the (now rotted off) hotspot pipes.
I have had a couple of helpful suggestions from Bob Scrivens and Paul 44 (see previous thread)
Bob, the idea of insulating the manifold seems a good idea. I presume you mean insulate the steel portions between the manifold and the cylinder head. I would perhaps be a bit concerned about the electricity consumption of glow plugs?
Paul, do you know how much current the VW manifold warmer takes? I have converted the 33 to 12 volts but I still don't want to overload it.
Maybe a combination of these 2 ideas could be the way forward if I can't do a satisfactory repair.
Any other ideas anywhere ?
Regards,
Pete.
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daf44
Likes DAFs
Posts: 572
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Post by daf44 on Mar 18, 2008 21:02:57 GMT
hi pete.
glow plugs would use far too much power and are not designed to be on all the time. you could possibly melt the manifold.
i do not know what the draw is on the VW system but the system is designed for constant use and could not draw all that much power as most of the VWs only had dynamos anyway.
they will not keep up with high power drains.
i have tried insulating manifolds on beetles before now and while it works really well with a manifild warmer i found that without a warming system or hotspot pipes it caused more problems than it solved. if the manifold ices up under insulation it take a lot longer to thaw out.
i regularly ran beetles without hostpot pipes and most of the time it was not a problem unless it was particularly cold or you were driving particularly hard- both of which could cause icing up of the manifold.
i have also heard of copper pipe being fitted into the original hotspot fitting on the exhaust and wrapped around the outside of the manifold and back into the exhaust again. this was supposed to have worked but i have never seen or tried this.
let us know if you have any luck with this.
paul44
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Bob Scrivens
Likes DAFs
Ex owner of the green machine
Posts: 534
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Post by Bob Scrivens on Mar 19, 2008 0:51:22 GMT
Hi Pete
I have run my 33 without the hot spot pipes connect and only had the carb ice up in the middle of Summer, on the evening when the humidity was high, cleared it by turning on the winter setting on the air cleaner, but the only trouble with this on is that you loose about 10% of the power from the engine.
With regards the glow plugs, if they are fed with 12 volts they can take up to 10 amps each, but by puting them in series the amps are divided by how many are in the circuit and the heat is reduced.
I did wonder if there was a material on the market that you could wrape around the manifold, like the heating element in a car seat.
I have a feeling that the Canadians use some think like this around the battery to stop it freezing in the winter.
John from the USA maybe able to enlighten us on this.
Regards Bob.
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Post by littlebelter on Mar 20, 2008 21:32:14 GMT
Well, I have now managed to locate a repairable one at €35 and a repaired one at €75. Not cheap but at least available. Probably cheaper than sending to Canada for an electric blanket!
John, I'm surprised (but glad to hear) that epoxy putty made a satifactory repair. Obviously the pipes don't get as hot as I imagined.
Regards.
Pete.
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Post by littlebelter on Apr 4, 2008 8:54:28 GMT
Progress report . . .
I have now got the repaired manifold fitted to the 33 Van and a new hotspot pipe (silencer to manifold) is on the way from Danny.
I shall have to make up the other bit of the hotspot pipe.
In the book it just looks like a straight bit of pipe with an oval flange at the top and a squashed bit at the bottom.
Has anyone got one in good enough state to send me the dimensions?
Outside diameter ?
Overall length ?
Length of the squashed bit ?
Width of the aperture of the squashed bit ?
Thanks in anticipation,
Pete.
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Post by littlebelter on Apr 4, 2008 12:12:43 GMT
L.O. John.
I don't have anything to take a photograph of !
The bits are illustrated on page 2-9 of the workshop manual. Top picture.
The Right hand bit (Manifold to silencer) I have got coming from Danny and the left hand bit I have got to make up.
I had assumed it would have a flange at the top end to bolt on to the hotspot outlet pipe from the manifold, but the illustration shows a plain end so I am now mystified.
Can you shed any light on the matter ?
Regards,
Pete.
P.S. I have not forgotten the 55 Manual. The Post Office want over £20 to send it to USA so I amy trying to find a cheaper way.
P.
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Post by littlebelter on Apr 4, 2008 21:17:47 GMT
L.O. John.
The pipe I need the dimensions for is not the one you are describing. I am getting that one from Danny.
The dimensions I need are for the other pipe. The left hand one (Flattened at the lower end) on the pic at the top of the page which "macplaxton" kindly supplied (Thanks Mac !)
Regarding the 55 manual that's a good idea so long as it doesn't put him over the baggage weight limit. The manual weighs in at just under 2 kilos on the kitchen scales.
Cheers,
Pete.
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Post by littlebelter on Apr 5, 2008 13:26:52 GMT
L.O. again John et al.
The breather on my engine goes from the oil filler neck to the underside of the air cleaner casing.
If the left hand (flattened) pipe in the illustration is a breather on some models, that then poses a further question . . .
What bolts on to the other small flange on the inlet manifold to carry the warm gases away, and where does it lead to?
Regards,
Pete.
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Post by littlebelter on Apr 5, 2008 15:24:52 GMT
L.O. again John et al.
The breather on my engine goes from the oil filler neck to the underside of the air cleaner casing.
If the left hand (flattened) pipe in the illustration is a breather on some models, that then poses a further question . . .
What bolts on to the other small flange on the inlet manifold to carry the warm gases away, and where does it lead to?
Regards,
Pete.
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