dillyman
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Becky beautiful
Posts: 283
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Post by dillyman on Apr 2, 2008 12:20:47 GMT
Although I have had Dilly for over eight years now and use her on an almost daily basis I am still a bit puzzled about the transmission. I don't think she changes into high ratio as easily or as quickly as she should. O.K. on the open road when easing back on the throttle over 40 m.p.h. All seems fine I think. At lower speeds the revs are too high I think compared with another 44 that I used to own. Also she has never in my ownership exhibited signs of changing ratio downwards when braking and neither does the low hold work at all.
I wonder whether the pipework leaks anywhere or if there might be problems within the drive unit bellows.
Finally I know that things have to be adjusted helped by the use of a vacuum gauge and associated pipework with 'T' piece. This I do not possess. Where can I get one or is there another way?
Marcus H.
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spunkymonkey
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Currently waltzing Matilda
Posts: 3,482
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Post by spunkymonkey on Apr 2, 2008 13:36:45 GMT
Marcus, can't offer much advice on the problems you're suffering from experience but, looking at the layout of the vac circuit, a split or leaking pipe round the brake vacuum valve could certainly cause the symptoms you have. Unlikely to be on the "inlet" from the manifold to the valve as you'd almost certainly have major idling problems with a leak there. For a vacuum gauge try www.toolsbypost.com/product.php?category=990&id=271 or Google / EBay for one (will probably be around the same price anyway so may as well buy new)
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Post by dafdaffer on Apr 2, 2008 18:51:25 GMT
hi marcus, pull the pipe from the bottom of the vac valve (the one which is bolted to the engine next to the carb) then increase the revs, there should be no vacuum from the valve at idle as the revs rise there should be vacuum present, if it is reving quite high before doing anything then adjust it, the best way to set it is so that as soon as you press the throttle the vacuum starts to come from the valve, if this is ok check all pipes then, go for the diahpragms by checking how rich has said, other than that check that the belts are not slack through being thinned out. theres not much else than anyone has said, unless the brake valve has stuck???
the valve on mine is worn so you tend to get to much overdrive condition, but i like it like that and it is not revvy.
Paul
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dillyman
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Becky beautiful
Posts: 283
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Post by dillyman on Apr 6, 2008 15:13:18 GMT
Thanks for all the advice. I will try to get round to replacing all hoses first - Can someone tell me if they all have moulded in bends or not. I can get reinforced hose of the same type but in long straight lengths if this is O.K.
Is the fact that the low hold does not work neither is there any increased engine braking when braking from low speed -or any speed - and nothing happens on kickdown either, significant? |Does it point to a particular fault?
At present I am busy restoring a Honda P50 moped for a two day run from Hartlepool to Whitehaven in June. Daffy may have to wait a bit.
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daf44
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Post by daf44 on Apr 6, 2008 22:25:25 GMT
hi all.
reading this i realise that i am getting EXACTLY the same symptoms.
you did not say if the kickdown works when you floor the throttle. mine does.
mine does not change down on braking either, and has no low hold. all switches are working properly but i am buying a vacuum guage myself tomorrow to test the systems and tune the car up properly.
i will watch closely for any new suggestions and if i find the problem on mine i will let you know so you can check on yours. this may take a while as i am working nights all week but i will keep watching.
paul44
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daf44
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Post by daf44 on Apr 7, 2008 11:40:25 GMT
hi again. reading the workshop manual (i know- but it must have a use for something) it appears that the low hold switch was not fitted to 44s after a certain serial number and the hold was done through the brake light switch . this number is EARLIER than my mk1 which has a hole in the right place but nothing to suggest a switch was ever there. question is:- is the manual right.-did they stop fitting low hold switches on 44s. :- if so- did they start fitting them again later, or has everyone fitted their own as all other 44s seem to have them :- if not- why would anyone in their right mind remove it. i have fitted a switch myself as there are a lot of hills around here and i NEED a low hold. it does not work yet but i am hoping to cure that fairly soon. does anyone have any info on this. the original owner had the car for 20 years as a mobility car for his wife and the second owner did nothing to the car for nearly 20 years so i cannot see either of them removing the switch (and wiring), but it did not have one and it is just bugging me. any info would be appreciated. paul44
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daf44
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Post by daf44 on Apr 8, 2008 2:15:27 GMT
sorry. the autodata manual has some strange wording in it. reading again it does still mention the switch on the dash. my mistake. there was still no switch or wiring for it in mine. someone has removed it all and just left the hole in the dash. i have refitted a switch now but am chasing up a vacuum guage to fault find the lack of low hold. will let you know if i find anything. paul44
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daf44
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Post by daf44 on Apr 15, 2008 20:50:54 GMT
hi marcus.
i had the same symptoms on my44 and after a little bit of work today think i have now cured it.
first. the pipe on the manifold was a loose fit. not enough to cause idling problems, but enough to cause SLOW operation changing up gears.
second. there are two pipes going under the car. the bottom one off the vac valve held pressure when i blew into it. the other one coming of the brake vacuum valve did not hold pressure at all and after checking (a mate blowing into the pipe and me under listening for the hiss) i found that the other end of this pipe had split where it went into the drive units.
cut down and replaced these pipes. NO PROBLEMS NOW.
these are the first ones to check as your symptoms are so close to mine.
hope this helps.
paul44
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