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Post by rmldaf44 on Oct 15, 2018 12:27:32 GMT
Hello and good afternoon, I have a 1974 DAF 44 which had been off the road since (according to DVLA) 1992. We bought the car last June and after a lot of head scratching and trying to find parts got it MOT'd in July this year. The root problem I have is I can't seem to be able to get it to run properly . I have rebuilt both the fuel pump and carb but it will only run for a short time then either start to misfire or stop all together. I got it running better for the MOT and managed a 5 mile round trip . After this it hasn't run properly at all. I've either to fiddle with the carb to get it started or it will start but not keep running on either tick over or take throttle. Any help pointers to how to get a good starting point for carb setting would be good. I have checked and double checked static ignition timing , plug and point gaps too . Thanks (frustrated) Rick
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andrew
Likes DAFs
Posts: 1,104
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Post by andrew on Oct 15, 2018 13:50:32 GMT
Dear Rick,
Panic ye not! Help is at hand through the good offices of all of us on this forum & the Daf Owners Club, which I hope you've joined! It could be any number of problems but one often overlooked is an air leak between the metallic top of the inlet manifold and the carburettor. There should be a spacer with a thin gasket on the top & underneath. An air leak here will muck up the mixture settings and cause rough running. Try to get it running & spray WD40 or similar around the joint and see if this alters the engine's running. If it alters it in any way these's an air leak there. Other thoughts that spring to mind are a problem with the rubber pipe that runs from the back of the inlet manifold to the rotary vacuum valve, causing an air leak or the valve itself not being correctly set, again causing a leak. These are but a few thoughts that might help. You say the points and timing are correct, so that should rule out any problems there, but these symptoms could (could!) be caused by a faulty condenser or (more unlikely) a coil. I'd be tempetd to substitute a known good condenser, just to eliminate that as a cause. Yours is a 12 volt car, so a coil, should you need one, isn't too much of a problem. Finally, whereabouts are you and the car? Daf rescue missions have been known to happen......
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Post by andrejuan on Oct 15, 2018 14:11:47 GMT
All good advice from Andrew. To add a little about those areas mentioned, these engines are very sensitive to even the slightest leak at the joint of the inlet to the cylinder head. Worth loosening and re seating well. That car will also be fitted with an idle control/cutoff valve (whatever it's called). If it is faulty or not connected up it will cause very poor running and idle. Please keep us posted.
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Post by starider on Oct 15, 2018 18:19:54 GMT
Hi, as previously mentioned there should be an electronically operated electromagnetic jet on the right hand side of the carburettor.if this isn't working it will produce the symptoms you describe.It is easy to check.Turn on the ignition[don't start the engine],pull the wire off the jet,when you re-connect there should be an audible click if it's working.This jet was fitted to help reduce emissions at the time. There is always the possibility of a vacuum leak somewhere.It is also possible that the electronic vacuum valve is faulty.This could be the valve itself or even the brake light switch not working,again with the ignition on[engine not running],depress the brake pedal and the EVV should click,This valve is on the bulkhead left hand side,white plastic, with several rubber pipes to and from it. Vacuum leaks were always a source of poor running,so check that all vacuum pipes are in place,also check the vacuum pipes on the transmission. Once everything is sorted and set you will have few problems[at least you don't have to plug into a computer to analyse]...........starider
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Post by starider on Oct 15, 2018 18:26:20 GMT
PS Just remembered,if the main vacuum pipe which connects onto the manifold behind the carburettor[quite difficult to see],comes off or perishes badly,will cause all sorts of running problems.................starider
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Post by andrejuan on Oct 15, 2018 18:36:26 GMT
Thank you Starider, I should have mentioned where it is located :-(
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Post by rmldaf44 on Oct 16, 2018 7:25:29 GMT
A massive thankyou to all you guys who have taken the time to give me some pointers . I'm planning to have a go at the weekend and will be sure to check all these points. In answer to Andrew I'm in Perth and have only seen one other DAF north of the border thus far. The car is still pretty much original with only 25,000 miles on it. Thanks again for all your input. I'll keep you all posted to my progress.
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andrew
Likes DAFs
Posts: 1,104
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Post by andrew on Oct 18, 2018 7:19:56 GMT
In answer to Andrew I'm in Perth. So, a Daf-related rescue mission wizzing up the A1 from north London seems a tad unlikely as things stand.... Theoretical assistance will continue!
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Post by andrejuan on Oct 18, 2018 13:40:33 GMT
In answer to Andrew I'm in Perth. So, a Daf-related rescue mission wizzing up the A1 from north London seems a tad unlikely as things stand.... Theoretical assistance will continue! What, not even for the only DAF in St John's Toun ! :-))
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Post by starider on Oct 20, 2018 23:47:05 GMT
Hi, if none of the above don't work get back to us.......................starider
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