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I have a 1973 66 coupe with a big end knock. For reasons that I won't bore you with I have to take out the engine and get it to my mechsnic who will do the necessary work and then collect the car, replace the motor and make all good.
My question concerns the removal particularly with regard to the variomatic. Is there anything paticularly critical that I need to be aware of in disengaging the engine etc?
Hi Banda, the engines are fairly simple to remove. Disconnect the fuel line, throttle and choke cables, alternator wiring, oil pressure wire, coolant temp wire from the back of the cylinder head and anything else I've forgotten. Remove the radiator, you will need it out of the way. The engine and bellhousing come out together, there are two rubber front mounts and two rear on the bellhousing, all 17mm nuts that need removing. Once loose you will need to lift the engine slightly to pull it forward this should disengage the propshaft from the output shaft of the bellhousing, you may have to encourage the propshaft off with a soft faced hammer (not a normal hammer as the prop is alloy and easily damaged). The engine can then be lifted out, front of the engine pointing upwards.
It helps to have a glamorous assistant, my long suffering Mrs Dave helped the other day.
Post by Nick the man with a daf.... on Dec 19, 2019 23:06:43 GMT
if the prop comes out with it be prepared to go looking for the spring that sits over the splines on the forward/reverse gearbox though.. as it will ping off and go for a wander.. its about the size of half a roll of extra-strong mints so you wont miss it
There is a cover in the floor just forward of the primary unit. If you take that off first, the spring should drop out when you remove the propshaft, and you can put it back in via this hole. Dont loose it, mine was missing when I took the prop shaft out, it was difficult to find another. Danny of Dafhobby came up with a used one eventually. Pic of the primary's splines after the prop shaft is taken out.
Hello and Happy New Year to all, I greatly appreciate all the advice and apologize for the delay in my reply. I had to go to Bermuda at short notice to visit a very sick feiend and then there was the annual Christmas rush back to the Uk to visit family and friends. Anyway 2020 is here and I must sort out my 66. I hope to get the block out within a couple of weeks and get it over to my mechanics lock-up. I really want to be back on the road for spring. Thanks again.
Once again thank you for all the advice. I have one very basic question........after all the ancillary parts have been removed should I jack up the vehicle at the front to undo the bellhousing nuts and ease the engine out or just leave it with all four wheels firmly on the ground?
Thanks 'Nick the man with a daf' but as I have to take the engine over to my mechanic friend it might be easier without the bellhousing. The idea is that he repairs the engine after which he will collect the car and put it all togethef again so,as a professional, I assume it won't be a problem for him. The reason that I agreed to take out the engine is because he has limited garage space and I do not want the car sitting around outside in the wet for weeks. This way he can work on the engine on his bench and collect the Daf when ready to reassemble in his workshop just for the day or so that it tskes.
Well we took the engine out with the bellhousing and I trailered it over to my mechanic friend yesterday. He is a busy guy but I still hope to be back on the road by April latest. Meanwhile I shall be having some work done on the body to bring it up to top condition.
BTW only A-type dafs (600-33) have that closed tunnel and inspection cover, B types & 300 have an open tunnel which was much easier during factory assembly times. Dont forget the spiral spring at the vario end when putting back the propshaft. Align the spline shaft from the clutch well with the one at the primary vario (using the play at the engine mounts), the propshaft will slide easily over them if that is correctly aligned. otherwise the rubber dampers in the propshaft ends will go after a short time, you'll smell the rubber before!
As Gromsound says getting the rear engine mounting adjusted properly is very important for the lifespan of the prop shaft. When I fit mine I tighten the front engine mountings and use a jack under the rear of the sump to move the bellhousing mountings upwards until the prop shaft can easily slide backwards and forwards on the splines on each end of the prop. Tighten the bellhousing to subframe mountings and check the prop again.
I went over to visit my mechanic friend yesterday for his diagnosis on my engine. It seems the butterfly on the choke broke off and was sucked in through the inlet manifold. It then was swiftly hammered into two little chunks which were found on top of the pistons. Unfortunately they somehow managed to damage said pistons and underside of cylinder head which now needs to be skimmed. Aside from the skim I will now buy a full set of pistons, rings and liners, gasket set, plugs, headgasket and filters for a comprehensive rebuild. any suggestions for reputable parts suppliers will be welcome. Pistons are 70mm and best I can find is franzose.de at 339 euros. On a less technical aspect...….the engine bay has been sprayed 'inferno red' in line with the bodywork colour. While the block is out I will clean and paint it. My mechanic has a ready supply of 'Post Office Red' or a sort of deep blue engine paint. Any views on whether I should use one of these or stick with black? Final question......I am having some work done on the body at the same time. I have to replace the silver deco strip on the right hand side. At the moment it is erroneously labelled '1300 Marathon' which is incorrect it being an 1100. I cannot determine whether that text is necessary/original or whether just added. It would make my life easier if the bodywork guy replaced the strip without the words as the left hand side does not have the text and would have to be added to match up. I can buy a strip from 'dafhobby' at what seems to be a rather expensive euros 76.26 (though would hope that that is for both sides) or ask bodywork guy to spray or use generic. Any advice on any points appreciated......thank you.
Well I had the head skimmed today. Great service as they did it in a few hours while I went for a coffee (or two). Now I will order pistons/rings/liners at 70mm from 'Der Franzose' in Germany (339 euros which does not seem too bad to me) plus all the other parts required and then put it all together again. I am having a little bodywork done as I said but getting the car back on the road is now looking tantalizingly close.
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