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fitted a weber 32 dir on a 1289 is not difficult. With the admission parts only, it's ok, because the first exhaust system is the same on the Daf or Volvo 66 and the R12Ts. There is the hole on the exhaust part for the screw to fixing the admission part.
For the 1108, it's not so easy , there is not points of fixation on the first exhaust part. One my 66 I welded 4 screws one the first exhaust part, but I'll fit it with a 1289 exhaust part soon. This is not a problem because there is a alternator. If you want to fit on a 55 this exhaust system, you'll need to put an alternator because the dynamo is just under it !!! (this is that I did on my 55).
Last point, the switch. For this moment I drive my 66 without, it's running, but I'll reserch the fixation'system.
Sorry if I'm not clear, I try to speak english but I sleeped a little bit during school..........
Thank you for the great discussions. Apparently I am not the only Daf owner who has tried to improve the fuel system. I am not trying to build my Daf into a performance machine. I am rather trying to make the car as easy to start as a fuel injected modern car. I also drive a 1983 Toyota pick up, which has a carburetor along with electronic ignition. This vehicle starts every time all year round. I never have hard starts, and it performs quite well. I wish my Daf started and ran just as well as my Toyota. Maybe it may be as simple as rebuilding the OEM carburetor. Or maybe I could see real results from an aftermarket unit such as a Weber. I am inclined to spend some money on this improvement, but I am most persuaded by the ease of installation. I do not want to have to create new brackets, and custom assemblies. The post that suggested the 32 dir 21 for the 1289. (like the R12ts). Seems like the option with the least amount of fuss. Does anyone have a link to a website that I can purchase these components?
On my 55 racer i changed the original solex for a Weber (volvo 340).Used a late type 340 exhaust manifold
As you can see in the picture I used a late type 340 starer because the relais stands on top instead of on the side,The original starter will get too much heat off from the exhaust in this set-up. I took out the switch for the variomatic.You can change the function of the horn switch on the steering column handle into variomatic switch.For my racer i chose for switch on the steering wheel. I use a small compressor for the variomatic.You read it correctly.pressure instead of vacuum !For racing purposes it works perfectly. The engine goes over 6000 rpm at top speed!
There are sets available with a single or double DCOE weber in combination with Ferry inlets. We are starting an engine project in February.My current BR110 is at about 75 hp.Goal for the new engines lays at approximately 95 hp.When we start this,I will post it here.
Yocelyn, I've been looking for the kit you mentioned.I think this is what your looking for. . We place the same manifold but use a DCOE weber.This carb is much easier to adjust and parts are available everywhere.The camshaft is still a problem.We plan to make new ones which should not be too expensive.The camshaft will be custom made for our new engines and will have a lift of 12 mm,which increases torque. Inlet and carb are still new for sale.If you want extra power for a fair prise,go for the Volvo carb!!!!!!!
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