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Post by rhysyboi on Feb 26, 2024 12:37:26 GMT
Hello everyone! I am a recent purchasee of a 1976 Volvo 66! and it was 30 seconds from my house. Please forgive my terrible knowledge on these cars! As well as a first time Daf owner its also my first time as a classic owner! At the age of 25. Think the car was posted on here a few days ago so apologies to any else who wanted it but I had to have it! So anyway here's the issues atm, recommendations for parts and things that need looking at regularly would be much appreciated. - New Fuel Pump
- Fuel Gauge Sender? (fuel gauge is very iffy)
- Temperature sensor
- Slack alternator belt, so need tightening.
- Clips for fuel lines. (as they are currently loose)
- Any alternative electronic ignitions?
- When shifting she likes to clunk and screech, but when in gear it's completely fine.
- Spongy brakes, but it will stop down hill.
As well as all that many bits were loose like the carb and rocker cover it was raining oil everywhere but since its been tightened its been fine. Also its has twin webber but one of the flaps for the choke is missing? are they usually set up like this or am I missing one? After 3 times losing power due to the fuel pump (I believe) I finally made it save to the barn. Thank you all! I will also get round to posting the pics on the new FB group at some point later. Rhys.
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Post by Richard DAF Webmeister on Feb 26, 2024 22:19:48 GMT
Hello. Well, well done for taking the car on. I don't think I'd seen it advertised. New fuel pump - not sure if the club has any of these, but dafhobby.com (based in the Netherlands and supply to UK) usually have these sorts of parts.
Likewise fuel sender in the petrol tank and temperature sender.
I'm not sure about alternative electronic ignitions - I would imagine there is something somewhere available.
Your comment re "shifting and clunking" is a tad concerning. Do you mean that when you select "gear", then it grates and crunches? Normally, in the DAF version, the golden rule is to always start the car with the selector lever in the position you wish to move off in. i.e. forward or reverse. You can start in "neutral" which you do mainly when carrying out work on the engine. In the DAF, if you start in "neutral" then engage "gear" and you get the crunching, that is usually a sign that the clutch is spinning and partially engaged (it's centrifugal and at a certain RPM, the clutch engages. So, often the reason for this is that the engine might be ticking over too quickly or on choke.
However, in the Volvo version, they fitted a more "conventional" gear selector lever which is linked to a solenoid in the engine, meaning that you can/do start in "neutral". If the crunching is happening, then again I would guess that either modifications have been made; the engine might be spinning too quickly, or there might be a fault to do with the solenoid.
Out of interest, if you try to start the car in Drive or Reverse, does it?
Hope this is a start!
(Out of interest, and being nosey, what pointed you towards an "unusual" classic car - or maybe that was the reason!?)
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Post by rhysyboi on Feb 26, 2024 22:56:23 GMT
It was part of a collection of Dafs that were recently posted on eBay. The previous owner just happened to live 30 seconds from my house!
Yes so when shifting from neutral into drive or reverse (mostly)it'll clunk and screech.
It will only start in neutral which I believe is normal for the Volvo version?.
I've had a message from Gordon who did a hell of a lot of work on the car 4 years ago, but it has been sat since then.
It may be that the engine has been spinning too quickly, getting home with a lazy fuel pump require to car to be revved and choked so when I get a chance to get to the barn and replace it I'll let you know.
Oddly it doesn't seem to go into park either, and it doesn't feel like it suppose to? but I'll have a call with Gordon sometime this week to see what was done.
But thank you for the reply Richard! Hopefully the car will get the love it needs from me.
as to why a Daf. I've always been a lover of things forgot and unloved. It was either this or an Allegro. My friends think I'm crazy.
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Post by dafdaffer on Feb 27, 2024 20:34:56 GMT
Hey there and welcome Rhys, great decision getting yourself a very rare motor, Dafs and volvo 66 are super basic and easy to repair. some of the kit was still sold new up to 1992 on the volvo 340 so mechanical bits are quite easy to obtain.
if this is the red volvo then i believe that it was built up from another car but with a brand new old stock body that had been sat in a garage from new.
it may be possible that the car may have some mismatch parts ie the gear selector but only Graham can answer that as he built it for David who you brought it from.
ok your right it can only be started in neutral, the DAF variant however could only be started in gear as there was only a forward and backwards selection. the volvo version has a disengaging clutch which is activated when you press the button on the gear selector, under the bonnet you should find the control valve which uses vacuum from the engine to operate a small clutch arm very similar to a normal manual car, this allows you to be able to put the car car into gear although you should never rev the engine while doing this as the clutch is centrifugal and will engage causing crunching and grinding. also you mention a high engine speed, this will cause you the same issue. try checking that the throttle return spring is connected or the cable is not sticking or incorrect idle speed. if the car is struggling to run on idle check the solenoid on the carburettor they can come loose or the cable can corrode giving you no tick over. check it has power with the ignition turned on.also unscrew it and check for muck behind it.. any questions please ask and i will try my best to help. in the mean time take your time and enjoy tinkering
Paul
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Post by rhysyboi on Feb 28, 2024 16:38:54 GMT
So here's a little video on the daf and some of the issues 😅
Sorry for my terrible on camera style
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Post by Richard DAF Webmeister on Feb 28, 2024 19:15:25 GMT
Interesting video! Paul DAF Daffer will advise you re the crunching - it should not be doing that. I think it might be something to do with the "volvoilised" gear selector/inhibitor. Likeewise the rising revs. It seems like the solenoid thing on the carb was indeed perhaps loose or dirty.
The switch on the centre console is for the driving/spotlights. If it's wired correctly, it switches them on, but only when you have high headlight beam switched on with the stalk on the steering column. So in other words, headlights on, high beam on, then if you want even more light, switch the spots on. They go off when you dip the headlights.
The switches on the dashboard - couldn't see too well but the one on the far left that looks like a triangle, is the low gear hold switch. Again if wired up correctly it should illuminate green. You should hardly ever use this - it's the equivalent of using, say, second gear in a manual car to save the brakes when descending long steep hills. In any event, never ever switch it on when doing more than 30mph. That would cause major catastrophe and shock to the transmission - like changing down to first or second gear at high speed in a manual car.
One of the rocker switches on the right are hazard warning lights - should have pic of 4 small "bulbs/flashers". Again, someone else might remember what the other is.
The two round things between the dials from memory are the high beam warning light (blue) and indicator light (green) (I stand to be corrected - it's a long time since I've been in a 66) Do the ignition and oil lights in the dials come on when turning the ignition on?)
Hope this helps. Hang on in there - and that bonnet/shell looks very clean, so I think as DAFDaffer says, it's a car that was rebuilt using a new shell.
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Post by zebadee on Feb 29, 2024 20:25:44 GMT
Hi all I’ve got myself a Volvo 66 also recently. Been going through it over the last few weeks it was an eBay purchase and it’s been off the road for over 20 years. Lots to tinker with but almost finished. Good video I think the vac hose may belong to the clutch servo? My car done a bit of crunching until got the idle just right it seems if your revs are to high it will crunch.
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Post by zebadee on Mar 2, 2024 9:40:35 GMT
Hi when using the gear selector press the button for reverse and park and no button to change in to drive. So in other words if your pushing the lever forword press the button if your pulling the lever back no button hope that helps. And also if you adjust the idle to rev less it will go in gear nice and smooth.
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andrew
Likes DAFs
Posts: 1,123
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Post by andrew on Mar 2, 2024 20:49:29 GMT
Dear Zebadee,
Your car looks like a good one! I've watched the video a couple of times & noticed a few things you might like to look at:
1/ There seems to be a fuel leak from under the air intake. I noticed that as you revved it up there seemed to be a stream of liquid spraying out, which might be worth investigation.
2/ I suspect the disconnected vacuum pipe that's lying around in the engine bay is making then mixture excessively weak. Try blocking this pipe with a suitable bolt or similar and see if it causes the engine to idle more smoothly. Something tells me this pipe is involved in the transmission in some way, but I'm not sure quite how without seeing the car.
As to the switches and buttons, the switch on the central console controls the spot lamps and is normally left in the "on" position, thus allowing the inner two spot lamps to be illuminated when main beam is selected. The 2 circular lights on the dashboard are the main beam warning (blue) and the hazard warning (red)
Your engine's idling speed appears to be too high, which is why your gears are crunching when you move the selector. You also mentioned a problem with the carburettor solenoid. A simple way to confirm it's working is to listen for a "click" as the ignition is switched on. There is also a small black wire that is connected to the carburettor body and to then engine block: this wire earths the carburettor, which is mounted on rubber blocks and would otherwise be insulated from the car. Check that it's there.
All the above comments are made from the experiences of owning 3 Daf 66 cars, two 1100cc Super Lux ones and one 1300cc Marathon. Although Volvo altered some things, mostly to do with the gear selection, many parts remained the same.
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Post by dafman50 on Mar 3, 2024 19:59:27 GMT
Have sent phone number etc to you.
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Post by rhysyboi on Mar 4, 2024 17:59:10 GMT
Hello Everyone!
Bit of confusion between me and zeebedee here! But oh well.
The car has been running rich. Which I hope in a weird way is the cause of my engine stalling at junctions while trying to set off.
I've checked for vacuum leaks and other bits but haven't found anything!
Noticed there wasn't a spacer on my fuel pump. Doing some research I think this affects fuel pressure, so I've fitted a standard spacer I had with the car.
The mixture jet was about 3 1/2 turns out from full on, so this has been adjusted and is sitting around 2 1/2 now.
Won't see if these have fixed my issues until I take it out for a drive. As even before it would idle forever but as soon as you accelerated while driving it would cut out sometimes.
Fingers crossed!
Another couple of issues atm are the passenger side door not opening
And the handbrake slipping off the ratchet, but it looks like I'll have to take the carpet out.
Cheers guys! Rhys.
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Post by rhysyboi on Mar 5, 2024 16:17:56 GMT
A semi-successful day today!
After a few trips around the village, with lots of stopping at junctions and accelerating hard she didn't stall!
One flutter where I lost a little power but no stalling. Which may be because of a dodgy sparkplug after running rich for so long. But I'm guessing here.
Still nervous driving it for longer, but I'll have too soon!
Less successful was my effort to get the passenger side door working. Looks like a job getting the card out whilst the door is shut. Might have to man up and just give it a good kick 😅
Oh and I'm still using the good old parking brick!
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andrew
Likes DAFs
Posts: 1,123
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Post by andrew on Mar 5, 2024 16:28:10 GMT
Easy solution: bring the car along to the Daf Owners Club A.G.M. in Derbyshire! Tools, spares, advice and help, both practical and theoretical, will be on hand and I, for one, accept payment in beers!
Seriously though, some explanations can sometimes confuse others and actually seeing the car is often the best way to work out the problem.
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Post by rhysyboi on Mar 5, 2024 16:39:51 GMT
I would've loved to Andrew! But sadly I work in a job that would shoot me for not working St. Patrick's day!
And although it's not too far for me at 90 ish miles, I'd rather not have to be towed home!
But I am hoping to get to see everyone at some point!
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Post by dafdaffer on Mar 6, 2024 21:50:39 GMT
Hi Ryhs, when you press the button on the gear selector wait a few seconds before selecting the gear, when you press the button hold it all the time, what happens is the vacuum from the engine operates the vacuum clutch this allows you to select your gear, if you let go or select to early it will re engage the clutch and spin the prop this will crunch the gear as it almost the same as selecting a gear with a manual transmission without depressing the clutch, the daf variant could only be started in gear so think as the button being like a clutch pedal. if you hear the engine revs rise that is because you are introducing air into the manifold and adjusting the mixture so more air will make it idle higher.
hope that helps
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paull
Likes DAFs
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Post by paull on Mar 14, 2024 20:48:23 GMT
Hi Rhys, With The Volvo gear selector lever mentioned by dafdaffer above it’s not the action of pressing the button which causes the clutch to disengage, it’s the slight tipping of the gear lever handle. The button operates the interlock that allows the selector to move. Also try dropping the idle a little further if you can, that’ll make the centrifugal clutch less engaged mine doesn’t have a park position, so it’s perhaps a bit different to yours, but you may find you need to adjust the length of the selector rod ( and replace the bushes at the ends) under the car that goes between the lever and the gear box on the back to get the interlocks to work correctly.
The two things on the dash you asked about are the main beam warning light and something else - probably a spare position
Hope this helps
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Post by rhysyboi on Mar 15, 2024 13:39:45 GMT
Well the Volvo is now back safe in the garage! A slightly hairy drive yesterday with a petrol can on the passenger seat and my alignment still very out 😅 But now she's back I can finally start getting bits done! Petrol tank should be off soon to find the route of my fuel supply issues! Attachments:
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Post by swissdave on Mar 15, 2024 20:19:39 GMT
It looks very cosy in the garage. 😄 Glad it's improving, keep at it, they're a lovely thing when running right.
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Post by dafdaffer on Mar 19, 2024 21:58:14 GMT
Hi Rhys, With The Volvo gear selector lever mentioned by dafdaffer above it’s not the action of pressing the button which causes the clutch to disengage, it’s the slight tipping of the gear lever handle. The button operates the interlock that allows the selector to move. Also try dropping the idle a little further if you can, that’ll make the centrifugal clutch less engaged mine doesn’t have a park position, so it’s perhaps a bit different to yours, but you may find you need to adjust the length of the selector rod ( and replace the bushes at the ends) under the car that goes between the lever and the gear box on the back to get the interlocks to work correctly. The two things on the dash you asked about are the main beam warning light and something else - probably a spare position Hope this helps I must be getting confused in my old age. The 343 definitely uses the button to disengage the clutch. I've not had v66 for over 22 years so maybe my memories on the blink.
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Post by rhysyboi on Mar 30, 2024 14:28:21 GMT
Some slow progress with the volvo!
Tank is off and looks fairly clean, just the pickup pipe looks a touch rusty. So I'll clean it out and make sure that isn't the cause of my issues.
The fuel sender looks buggered. It's a turn in and not bolted. Having a look ones off a VW T2 look about the same. Anyone sure if they're the right fit?
I'll clean out my fuel lines and hopefully it'll be back on the road soon! Just lots of brown muck to clear out.
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Post by andrejuan on Mar 30, 2024 19:05:23 GMT
Some slow progress with the volvo! Tank is off and looks fairly clean, just the pickup pipe looks a touch rusty. So I'll clean it out and make sure that isn't the cause of my issues. The fuel sender looks buggered. It's a turn in and not bolted. Having a look ones off a VW T2 look about the same. Anyone sure if they're the right fit? I'll clean out my fuel lines and hopefully it'll be back on the road soon! Just lots of brown muck to clear out. You are making good progress. Nothing is impossible on these cars so stay positive, loads of help/expertise here and via the club in general. You ask about electronic ignition. I decided on the 123ignition as there is one for the Renault Cleon engines. I have yet to fit it, but it is an easy job. I will let you know the results. As you progress, you will find of course that the car runs better and better with regular use, everything will loosen and operate better each run. I have a blanking plate for the radio hole if you want it, or an old period radio if you don't mind 70s quality (or lack of) LOL. Keep asking questions, you won't find a more helpful bunch.
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Post by rhysyboi on Apr 5, 2024 13:01:15 GMT
Some slow progress with the volvo! Tank is off and looks fairly clean, just the pickup pipe looks a touch rusty. So I'll clean it out and make sure that isn't the cause of my issues. The fuel sender looks buggered. It's a turn in and not bolted. Having a look ones off a VW T2 look about the same. Anyone sure if they're the right fit? I'll clean out my fuel lines and hopefully it'll be back on the road soon! Just lots of brown muck to clear out. You are making good progress. Nothing is impossible on these cars so stay positive, loads of help/expertise here and via the club in general. You ask about electronic ignition. I decided on the 123ignition as there is one for the Renault Cleon engines. I have yet to fit it, but it is an easy job. I will let you know the results. As you progress, you will find of course that the car runs better and better with regular use, everything will loosen and operate better each run. I have a blanking plate for the radio hole if you want it, or an old period radio if you don't mind 70s quality (or lack of) LOL. Keep asking questions, you won't find a more helpful bunch. Hey andrejuan! The 70s radio would be absolutely amazing! My favourite quality audio is 70s 😂
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