pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on May 13, 2011 16:54:12 GMT
Not sure for how long I will be happy Pete she in for MOT early next week. Ive still got a shockabsorber to rebuild and am not to sure if the handbrake will pass. No adjustment left. Also got a worrying knocking noise from the prop tunnel. I have adjusted the exhaust clamps position hoping its that hitting the tunnel. Oh and her engine is really not happy. Got a definate grumbling noise on overun, though much higher pitched than a big end grumble. Sounds a bit like someones hand filing my engine. Im considering asking you and Matt very nicely to see if you can get Sophies engine running. If it runs nicely it may get temporarily swapped into Gladys, whilst I rebuild her own.
Oh and before I forget Dad is sending down a full set of tyres for Sophie in 155/70 14 flavour.
Paul
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33grinder
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Post by 33grinder on May 13, 2011 20:38:20 GMT
Ok Paul, are they going to Central or to Andy? I'll let whoever know if needs be.
I'll also speak with Matt about getting Sofie started, or at least trying to. There are a couple of difficulties in that there are no services at the overflow facility and nor do we have a 6v battery - I don't think Sofie has either...
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on May 13, 2011 21:06:37 GMT
Sophie is supposed to have a battery that was charged up the night before she arrived. As for the tyres it a case of who ever is easiest for you. There is no particular rush with getting Sophie started as I haven't properly investigated Gladys it may be something small and simple (he says hopefully) but it would be nice to know whether I have a working spare engine.
At a guess I would say the problem with Sophie is likely to be electrical and as the battery has been removed to charge, the first thing I would do is make sure the battery clamps are fitted securely. Then trace the possitive battery lead to the junction box and starter looking for loose wiring. Other than that I left a multimeter at central and there are a few things you can check with that.
With the ignition switch in the start position is there voltage at the starter terminals The battery should read approx 6.5, 7V accross its terminals.
Then switch the meter onto resistance. Place the possitive probe on the battery possitive and the negative probe to earth. If there isn't a properly high resistance then there is a short and that is the problem. Now move the possitive probe to battery negative. You should now get a next to no resistance if not the earth lead is at fault
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Post by Bob Waite on May 13, 2011 21:45:56 GMT
"Swapping the engine"? Wouldnt that be a bit drastic. I would have guessed that the older 44 was a 6 volt and the green one a 12 volt. Seems a lot of effort which is probably not necessary. Just my view. I don't get all this engine swapping stuff. Daf air cooled engines are very well designed and engineered and should not have such problems, as long as they have been serviced/looked after to the basic of standards.
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on May 14, 2011 17:05:01 GMT
Well knocking from the prop tunnel was an exhaust clamp hitting the tunnel. Ok think I have traced worrying rattle to something not worrying at all The little bit of tinware thats held on with 2 phillips screws that goes around the exhaust as they join the head had come loose and appears to rattle on the exhaust. Still got some worries though Noticed on the way home a distinct cyclic whine from the front end that changes pitch with road speed. Uh oh I think I have a wheel bearing on the way out. Considering removing the front drums and packing the bearings full of grease in the hope that it may help. To be honest I dont expect it too but if it gets her through an MOT on monday im happy
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on May 16, 2011 19:44:19 GMT
Well I got my MOT done today and the result is one mighty pissed off DAF owner!!! The fail list wasn't long but a lot of it was ridiculous and shouldn't have failed. The advisory list on the other hand fills a whole page. Any way here we are re test is tomorrow and she better pass! Fails 001 Hazard warning switch faulty (Hmm it really does help to press the right button!! Tester said that they had nicely left the switch in the on postition to show me the problem. I spotted it straight away theyd turned the low hold on and hadn't touched the hazard switch which in fact works perfectly) 002 Horn Control Missing (Funny that it was there and working both before and when I picked her up. I think blind Bob Mcblind may have conducted this test) 003 Offside front wheel bearing rough when rotated (That one is fair enough I knew it was whining and was intending to replace anyway if the part had turned up on time) 004 Nearside front (jacking point) body and chassis excessively corroded. Seriously affecting strength within 30cm of body mounting. (You know I could have sworn I handed them a car with unitary monocoque construction! Yes I hadn't spotted the rust and will repair it but you would have thought a VOSA tester could tell the difference between a seperate chassis and a monocoque : 005 Same as 4 but for the nearside. Advisories 006 Front leaf spring deteriarated but not seriously weakened. ( I will get the wire brush and some hammerite out then as theres only light surface rust on it) 007 Nearside rear shockabsorber has slightly reduced damping affect ( This one is annoying as the rear shocks where brand new just over a year ago) 008 Same as 007 but for offside 009 Centre exhaust has minor leak (Big up with the assembly paste as the joint isn't sealing properly) 010 offside front brake pipe slightly corroded 011 rear brake pipe slightly corroded 012 Nearside rear brake hose has slight corrosion to ferrules (please excuse my ignorance but what is a ferrule?) 013 same a 012 but for offside 014 Exhaust hangers missing system still fully supported ( Its those blasted rubber rings that I seem to replace every other week) 015 Bolt missing from exhaust manifold. System fully supported ( I cannot see where they mean as all nuts bolts and attachments I can see are present and tight. I also cant see how they can see them with the tinware in place) 016 Oil Leak (Actually its no longer leaking. It was leaking badly a couple of months back and I haven't got around to cleaning the engine) One very annoyed DAF owner signing off Paul
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Post by Richard DAF Webmeister on May 16, 2011 21:04:59 GMT
Oh dear. It's at times like these when you remind yourself of the "joy of old car ownership".
I'm sure you'll get it sorted.
I know the feeling.
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Post by Patrick on May 16, 2011 22:03:10 GMT
From what I've read, more so in the past few years, there seems to be a gap in the market for "Classic Car MOT testers"? Made up of people who know cars thoroughly, know their history (of manufacturers), and know their mechanics! (Too much reliance on electronics these days).
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33grinder
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Post by 33grinder on May 16, 2011 22:31:34 GMT
Sorry to hear this Paul. Looks like you need to find a classic friendly inspector - there must be one around somewhere. A tester who understands older cars and will let you be present at the test to show you what he finds so you can correct him if needs be. Are there no RR members in your area that can recommend a tester?
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on May 17, 2011 17:06:07 GMT
Ive been working solidly on this one today and it looks like she should get a fresh ticket tomorrow. first two fails have been sorted by giving tester a quick sharp lesson on how to open his eyes. The 3 more serious ones have also been sorted. 1st job was the wheel bearing, I stuck her up on a stand pulled the drum and pressed out the bearings. Then set about going to get the replacement which I had been promised would be at the motorfactors at 9am. It actually turned up at 3.30. Hence why the retest will be tomorrow and wasn't today. With that in mind the old bearing which really was quite bad was pressed back in so that she had 4 wheels to roll on. Then I set about the welded repairs. 1st job was too pull the seats and runners out so that the matts could be lifted and removed. Once that was done I was greated by the unhappy sight of rotten insulation matt and waterlogged floor pan. This was promptly dried out and cleaned up. I had to cut a small portions out of each floorpan and weld these two repair sections in. You know what I actually think my welding may be improving As you can see the drivers floorpan was covered in surface rust, this has all been treated and covered in rubberised paint. A fair sized patch gone in there. Then I moved over to the passenger side and welded this patch on quite a bit smaller than the drivers side. I know both sit slightly proud but I opted to overlap and double weld rather than butt weld and spent a whole day chasing blown through holes ;D besides it will all be under a matt so I really dont care if its pretty or not. The observant amongst you will notice a whole. That is a drain hole which numpty here inadvertently welded up thinking it was a rust hole on the drivers side and then promptly had to redrill Then it was time to roll her onto the two poster lift so that I could get to the underside and close up any remaining holes as well as doing the other weld for the double weld so that no water can get in and rot. Now how to repair a jacking point using a 2 post lift. Well lift as normal then use a lift height gearbox stand under the front subframe and slightly lower the lift. The result is being able to swing the lifting arms out of the way and still have the whole car above head height. Anyways this is what the passenger side jacking point looked like after 30mins carefull welding All nice and solid again. Exactly the same process was imployed on the other side so I haven't bothered boring you with pics that would realistically just look the same. Oh and before I forget AWOL manifold bolt was traced to being the bolt that attaches the front silencer to the bell housing. This has been replaced and another 2 rubber rings have been fitted. The exhaust is now gas tight as well so a fair few advisories have been sorted as well.
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on May 17, 2011 18:29:30 GMT
To be honest, I'm struggling to see which suspension mount that comes within 30cm of Certainly not the strut top, or the front tie-bar, and can't see it being within a foot of the front spring mounts either. Are there any other suspension mounts on a 44 I'm not aware of? Obviously they needed doing anyway, but you really do need to think about finding a new tester Paul.
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on May 17, 2011 19:44:50 GMT
Generally for rust to be a failure over here it has to be: (i) within a prescribed area (within 30cm of a suspension, steering, brake or subframe mount) or: (ii) likely to adversely affect steering or braking control or: (iii) creating a sharp edge likely to cause danger to other road users A hole there doesn't come under (iii) or (ii) which means it should only have failed by being within 30cm of a suspension, steering, brake or subframe mounting point. It's nowhere near brake or steering mountings and there is no subframe, so that only leaves suspension mounting points. edited to add: Sorry, forgot towbar and seatbelt mounting points (but not seat mounts as long as the seats are secure). But none of them apply either
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on May 17, 2011 20:54:27 GMT
Ahh but the fail was for within 30cm of a non existant body mount. This was a new tester one id never used before but had been told was fair by a few coursemates. Rest assured once the retest is done the car will not be going back there
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on May 17, 2011 20:59:43 GMT
That's what happens when you change testers on every test. Find one, let him get to know your cars and your work, and stick with him even when "bargain" alternatives get suggested - they're not bargains when you get unwarranted fails by someone who doesn't know the car!
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on May 17, 2011 21:09:12 GMT
I looked for a new tester after the busniness with my usual one refusing to follow the manual by refusing to test bruce on not displaying a chassis number. Which according to vosa themselves he didn't need
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on May 18, 2011 17:23:04 GMT
Gladys went in for retest this afternoon and came out again with a green bit of paper Incidently she had 2 more points added to the yellow one 1st was. Unclear switchgear labling. (that was the testers response to being made to look a fool over the horns and hazards in front of his boss ;D ) 2nd was another eye roller. Welded repairs to underside unpainted. (It is a little habit of mine that if a car fails and needs welding I do the repair and leave it bare for the retest. So that the tester can see that the repair has been done properly. As soon as the test was done it was seam sealed and then undersealed) But I can laugh now as shes passed and is fully road legal again. Paul
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33grinder
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Post by 33grinder on May 18, 2011 20:17:56 GMT
I've heard it all now! It's a bit habeas corpus really, there would have been no need to label controls when Gladys was built so they can't bring that in retrospectively. Easier than the examiner admitting that he's been a tw@t I guess...
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on May 18, 2011 20:35:37 GMT
2nd was another eye roller. Welded repairs to underside unpainted. That's actually a pretty fair one if you think about it. They have to assume the presenter gets his work done by someone else because most do. So you could well be driving around happily now with a new MOT and bare, freshly welded, metal underneath completely unaware that it's rapidly dissolving into worse rust than you had before. Exactly the sort of thing that "advisories" are there for!
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on May 20, 2011 0:39:51 GMT
The really odd bit is that corrosion near a body mounting (assuming separate chassis) isn't an automatic fail because body mountings aren't prescribed areas. You can even have body mountings not attached at all - they only become a fail if they lead to insecurity of the body, which generally means more than one affected!
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on May 24, 2011 17:57:52 GMT
Well she has passed and is back in regular use oh and their is more news. What was supposed to be a small touch up seems to be rapidly turning into a full respray Shes going to a car show on monday so needs to look reasonable and as ive been doing some bodywork repairs recently a few bit of paintwork have started looking distinctly shoddy. The first stage of todays work was to dig a load of filler out of a dinged wing and beat it out with hammers and dolies. Then a light skim of filler went on that was sanded down before a light coat of etch primer. Which revealed a few highspots Whilst that was drying I moved onto the back corner of the rear wing which I have previously repaired. That got a tidying skim of filler which was sanded smooth and primed. Now whilst I was sanding that and keying the paint around it, I seemed to get carried away and before I new it this had happened. Probably a good thing as the paint finish on that wing was a bit ropey due to the preperation last time being rushed. Those where sanded out before another lot etch primer and a coat of red primer. The reason I have used red is that DAF did originally front wing primed ready for topcoat after some flatting Rear wing in primer waiting to dry so the topcoat can go on. I then sprayed on a couple of coats of top coat which im reasonably happy with. Their are a few runs and it definatly needs a few more coats. Not all that happy with the colour match though. At least its better than grey splodges Unfortunatly my local paint factor can no longer supply the paint due to the original codes lead content meaning im going to have to search for some more paint to finish the job. Anyway the result, which will need polishing. It looks ok ish Paul
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Post by Richard DAF Webmeister on May 24, 2011 20:57:56 GMT
Looking good. Quick smart work there.
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on May 24, 2011 21:33:34 GMT
Looking tidy, Paul - that air sander must've helped speed it up a bit ;D
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on May 25, 2011 5:45:25 GMT
Yes the air sander does help but its no good for the intricate stuff. Or for flatting between coats for that their is no substitute for the mk1 human arm
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stefan
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Post by stefan on May 25, 2011 7:42:37 GMT
I use a random orbital sander between coats speeds things up no end, just have lots of grades of sanding discs
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on May 25, 2011 17:17:06 GMT
The only grade of disc I had to hand was 220. The wet and dry I use for flatting 400 grit. Ive been doing some research and have had a qoute for £450 for a full respray. Im tempted but would need to take her off the road to do it. Now if I can get the triumph fixed which id need to anyway I can put her where it is and bring out the nitromors for a bare metal respray.
Its got to be the whole car as I cant get a decent match, shes already two slightly different colours, has some celly and some 2k on her making the colour fade unevenly. Oh and the original paint is now flatter than a steam rollered rat and no amount of cutting compound seems to bring the shine back anymore.
Now do you think I should keep the colour as close to original as possible or go for a different shade of green which is a lot more work as id have to strip the interior and engine bay as id want everything changed to the new colour
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33grinder
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Post by 33grinder on May 25, 2011 17:37:09 GMT
I would be inclined to go for the same colour. Someone here will have a paint swatch with the mixing recipe I'm sure. Get too much mixed so you have sone left over for future should it be needed.
That's a very keen price for a full respray. Is that materials and labour? Sounds like 'mates rates' and then some!
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on May 25, 2011 17:46:22 GMT
Thats just to blow it over on the outside only. I do all the masking and prep work. It is a proper body shop and ive seen his work he is good.
Im thinking 4 litres should be enough. As im doing everything visible the colour can be as close to original as possible rather than exact, especially as im planning to go 2k for durability
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Post by Richard DAF Webmeister on May 25, 2011 19:12:16 GMT
Yes, keep it original. Codes etc are readily available.
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on May 25, 2011 19:18:43 GMT
Ive got the paint code just cant get anyone to make it up due to the lead content
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on May 28, 2011 16:39:07 GMT
Ive been getting creative today.
Back in december my brother bought me some speakers for Gladys as a birthday present, unfortunatly they are the type you mount in a door card. I really didn't want to cut the door cards so since then they have been using their own magnetism to hold them to the dash. This obviously kind of deadened there sound quality and didn't look very tidy. So today with her first show of the season on monday saw me trying to think of a way of making them look tidier
So out came the tin snips and some off cuts of steel which where cut into two rectangles with an ovaled bottom to match the speaker profile. I then scribed a line around a speaker for a hole for the magnet to go through, drilled a clearance hole and cut that out with my nibbler. This allowed the speaker to be place and screwed into position with 4 self tappers. The last stage was to bend over the top in a vice forward of the speaker grill and drill two clearance holes. These would then be screwed to the bottom of the dash.
However when I got out to the car I had another idea slackened off the 4 phillips screws that hold the curved dash bottom in place positioned the speaker mounts and did the screws back up clamping the brackets in place. Problem solved no cutting and not even any drilling so absolutely and completly reversible, and if I do say so myself it looks quite good. I'll get some pics on monday when I get some more AAs for the camera
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