pauldaf44
Likes DAFs
Totally addicted to quirky tat
Posts: 2,068
|
Post by pauldaf44 on Jun 19, 2009 6:12:28 GMT
more to do here than there is on Anglesey. I think they where more worried about it having adverse affects on the paintwork and me having a case to sue them.
|
|
spunkymonkey
Likes DAFs
Currently waltzing Matilda
Posts: 3,482
|
Post by spunkymonkey on Jun 19, 2009 8:36:51 GMT
Leaded paint isn't harmed by T-Cut at all (bearin mind, when the stuff was invented practically all paint had lead in it). I'd be willing to bet that the warning was a standard "don't use abrasives on paint with lead" one taken a little too far!
|
|
pauldaf44
Likes DAFs
Totally addicted to quirky tat
Posts: 2,068
|
Post by pauldaf44 on Jun 21, 2009 16:23:34 GMT
The magic daf fixing fairy has struck again. I wasn't having much luck unsticking the shock. I managed to get it to sit at the right height but had next to no movement. Being daring or dare I say stupid I decided to take it on the road run today regardless. Finished the road run having succesfully avoided most of the pot holes and set off home. About 6 miles from home I misdjuged and instead of dodging a rut in the road drove straight into it. Clunk hey presto DAF is no longer breaking my back every time we go over a bump she handles better as well and seems to go better not sure why. The shock has unstuck and is now working normally if abit rough, which i hope now that it is actually moving again will go but hey at least it now works. Putting a bit more lead additive in seems to have cured some of the rattles so I probably wasn't putting enough in, I have also switched to the stuff you add every time you fill up rather than the one you pt in every 4 tank fulls seems much more effective if more expensive. Unfortunatly Gladys seemed to have passed on her gremlins to some of the other cars on the run.
Paul
|
|
spunkymonkey
Likes DAFs
Currently waltzing Matilda
Posts: 3,482
|
Post by spunkymonkey on Jun 21, 2009 16:36:34 GMT
On the lead replacement front, we've been doing a bit of an experiment with Betty (well, someone had to one day). Working on the basis that she has steel seats in an alloy head, and having found no record of anyone making inserts not suitable for unleaded since about the 1940s, she's had nothing (none, nil, nada) on the additives front for the past 1500 miles. I've been keeping a very close eye on valve clearances during that time and there is no sign whatsoever of valve seat recession. That doesn't surprise me to be honest - otherwise I wouldn't have risked it - because virtually everything else with alloy heads is suitable for unleaded. It's just most manufacturers weren't willing to state it for models they weren't producing any more (why should they? it might do them out of a new sale ).
|
|
|
Post by dafdaffer on Jun 21, 2009 18:32:30 GMT
Hi Joe, i have been doing the same but have recently found out thats not the problem running on unleaded only. apparently the where the valve passed through the guide seizes up and the valve cannot return to the seat then bang piston hits the valve. john smith had this happen to him and it destroyed the barrel piston and all. i wasn't aware of this myself as i have been running all my DAFS with no additive at all ever. may start to now
|
|
pauldaf44
Likes DAFs
Totally addicted to quirky tat
Posts: 2,068
|
Post by pauldaf44 on Jun 21, 2009 18:44:25 GMT
shes definatly running sweater with this additive I tried her without when I first got her then decided to see what the difference would be like if I put it in I can definatly say she runs smoother and doesn't get anywhere near as hot on the mountain roads. I think that little bit of extra cash for the additive is worthwhile.
Paul what you said about guides makes sense they are just as suspetable as seats to the corrosive effect of unleaded and when ask a gargage to do an unleaded conversion they put hardened guides and seats.
Paul
|
|
spunkymonkey
Likes DAFs
Currently waltzing Matilda
Posts: 3,482
|
Post by spunkymonkey on Jun 21, 2009 18:48:31 GMT
Never come across that as an effect of no lead - on a proper conversion they generally only do the exhaust seats (the valves are decent steel already or they'd melt!). The valve stems should be lubricated by oil passing down from the rockers. Which is why valve stem seals aren't designed to seal completely.
Seem to remember worries when u/l came in about deposits forming on the valve stems and causing sticking but that was to do with the combustion characteristics and a lead replacement additive ain't going to change them! In fact, even using "proper" 4 star won't nowadays - if you can find it - cos the base fuel for that is the same as for u/l just with TEL added.
|
|
pauldaf44
Likes DAFs
Totally addicted to quirky tat
Posts: 2,068
|
Post by pauldaf44 on Jun 22, 2009 17:33:49 GMT
I had to get round to replacing the O rings on Gladys exhaust this morning went out to use her only to discover the rings in peices underneath the floor and a hanging exhaust. Interestingly the rings where different sizes on the same mount which I think would have caused misalignment. Also note that metal grinding is now less severe that the exhaust is mounted with new rings and not coming off.
Paul pics coming later the perishing is unbelievable. When I can be bothered to get the laptop out that is. Unfortunatly my Mac doesn't like my phone cameras software.
Paul
|
|
|
Post by Richard DAF Webmeister on Jun 22, 2009 21:29:43 GMT
I always use Castrol Valvemaster. About a teaspoon full for every few litres of unleaded petrol.
It's important that once you start using an additive, you always use the same make/chemical types.
A main benefit of lead (or its replacement) is the "cushioning" effect of the bits of metal bashing around.
|
|
stefan
Likes DAFs
If it isn't broken fix it till it is
Posts: 1,282
|
Post by stefan on Jun 22, 2009 23:39:29 GMT
I have never had a problem with any of the cars i have had (All pre unleaded) and i have never used an additive ever. My old triumph herald did 30,000 miles in my ownership and the motor was still tip top when i sold it.
|
|
pauldaf44
Likes DAFs
Totally addicted to quirky tat
Posts: 2,068
|
Post by pauldaf44 on Jun 23, 2009 7:15:57 GMT
I seem to have stirred up a bit of a hornets nest here lol
|
|
spunkymonkey
Likes DAFs
Currently waltzing Matilda
Posts: 3,482
|
Post by spunkymonkey on Jun 23, 2009 10:54:07 GMT
It's one of those "you can never be 100% without a lot of research and no-one does the research" problems, Paul ;D The possible effects (or lack of) can depend on an awful lot of variables - the engine design, exactly what batch of metal it was cast from in the factory, its previous servicing, maintenance and general treatment, driving styles, the geography in the area it's driven in, what base fuels and so on. Out of that lot, everyone has their own experiences (I ran a Mini on unleaded for over 10k miles with no problems while leaded was still available cos the slight drop in fuel consumption was less than the 4p/litre saving at the time ) which tend to shape their approach to it
|
|
pauldaf44
Likes DAFs
Totally addicted to quirky tat
Posts: 2,068
|
Post by pauldaf44 on Jun 24, 2009 18:28:31 GMT
My self repairing daf didn't last long the strut has stuck again so I am stripping it down this weekend. heres the pics of the O rings that I removed
|
|
pauldaf44
Likes DAFs
Totally addicted to quirky tat
Posts: 2,068
|
Post by pauldaf44 on Jun 24, 2009 20:04:51 GMT
have stripped down strut too find it full of what looks like broken down rubber I think a seal has gone but am not sure where from so I am going to need a strut service kit and too know what type of oil I can put back in the strut. Then I can put the car back together at the moment it is not goinbg anywhere.
Paul
|
|
spunkymonkey
Likes DAFs
Currently waltzing Matilda
Posts: 3,482
|
Post by spunkymonkey on Jun 24, 2009 20:10:39 GMT
*** unofficial head on *** Drain it out, clean out any obvious floaty rubber bits then put it back together filled with 20W50 engine oil. For the sake of the oil and a few minutes work it's well worth the try - it deffinately won't be locked any more and it might even give some damping effect with the thicker oil *** official head on *** Yep, nothing at all you can do except try to track down a service kit
|
|
pauldaf44
Likes DAFs
Totally addicted to quirky tat
Posts: 2,068
|
Post by pauldaf44 on Jun 24, 2009 20:29:59 GMT
If it was your car which would you be doing and you don't know what grade oil should be in the strut do you?
|
|
spunkymonkey
Likes DAFs
Currently waltzing Matilda
Posts: 3,482
|
Post by spunkymonkey on Jun 24, 2009 20:47:42 GMT
If it was my car, I never take the official line until I've tried the unofficial As for oil, the correct grade will be one of the shock absorber oils that used to be quite easily available - now your best bet for them is probably a motorcycle shop. They have anti-foaming properties which helps to avoid loss of damping if you drive a little enthusiastically (probably more ethusiastically than you can in a Daf!). As for grade, given that there are bits of seal loose, go for the thickest available and see how it feels. Or test with Tesco finest (Value label) 20/50 first - at £1.60 or so for a litre it's a very cheap fix if it works and nothing lost if it doesn't. It's what Betty's rears are filled with btw and they've been fine for the past year
|
|
|
Post by dafdaffer on Jun 24, 2009 21:53:37 GMT
we will have to see what the struts are like on this other 44.
Paul
|
|
pauldaf44
Likes DAFs
Totally addicted to quirky tat
Posts: 2,068
|
Post by pauldaf44 on Jun 25, 2009 18:37:28 GMT
Gladys is now back together now all I have to do is bleed the brakes now is there anyway to do that singlehanded
|
|
spunkymonkey
Likes DAFs
Currently waltzing Matilda
Posts: 3,482
|
Post by spunkymonkey on Jun 25, 2009 18:59:53 GMT
Yes. Get a piece of tubing that fits snugly on the bleed nipple (fishtank air tube is good - the silicone stuff will stretch easily to fit) and bung one end with a tight-fitting self-tapper or similar so it's sealed. Using a Stanley knife make a slit in one side of the tube just above the sealed end and about 10 - 15 mm long. Fit the pipe to the bleed nipple, drop the sealed end into a jar of brake fluid, craks the nipple open and pump the pedal. The fluid will force the slit open under pressure then it closes up in the other direction - (almost) instant one-man bleed kit If you've disconnected pipes remember to do the whole system - back left, back right, front left then front right and check the fluid level every 4 pedal pumps or so. If it's the same resevoir as the 33s then it empties pretty quickly!
|
|
|
Post by dafdaffer on Jun 25, 2009 19:47:59 GMT
you can also use an easy bleed kit, i have done it the same way as joe as well, only thing is half fill a pot with fluid and submerge the pipe. this will guarantee no air getting back in also make sure the pipe is tight onto the nipple or it will fly off when you pump the pedal.
re the "O" rings for the exhaust they are not even 6 months old new rubber products are rubbish.
Paul
|
|
stefan
Likes DAFs
If it isn't broken fix it till it is
Posts: 1,282
|
Post by stefan on Jun 25, 2009 19:50:51 GMT
Anne Summers will be on your back if you keep insulting half of what they sell, so i am told anyway.
|
|
|
Post by pyoorkate on Jun 26, 2009 7:08:27 GMT
Aye, the new O rings I put on Jejy's exhaust - when I looked under the car one of them is half-gone already - and she's been back on the road, what, a year? They're crap is what they are.
|
|
pauldaf44
Likes DAFs
Totally addicted to quirky tat
Posts: 2,068
|
Post by pauldaf44 on Jun 27, 2009 18:46:20 GMT
Gladys is now better and in one piece, I have rebuilt the shock and bled the brakes, which are now actuated much further up the pedal than before so much so that i am wondering if the garage bled them properly after replacing the brake cylinder, I could even think about adjusting the brake pedal now so that there isn't a foots width between the brake and throttle it would be nice. Unfortunatly I cant use the car till monday because I sheared a split pin in the track rod end and cant get a bit to drill th ******* thing out until monday talk about frustrating. I must say having to working struts on the front end does make a considerable difference to the ride quality. Only thing left to do before Lichfield (touches wood) is get some better colour on the front wing some t-cutting and a lot of elbow grease aka polishing.
Paul
|
|
spunkymonkey
Likes DAFs
Currently waltzing Matilda
Posts: 3,482
|
Post by spunkymonkey on Jun 27, 2009 19:53:26 GMT
Like this, you mean... before: and after: ;D edited to add: ok, it took a bit more than T Cut and elbow grease
|
|
pauldaf44
Likes DAFs
Totally addicted to quirky tat
Posts: 2,068
|
Post by pauldaf44 on Jun 27, 2009 20:06:00 GMT
mine isn't quite that bad to start with so I think T-cut polish and elbow grease will do the job fine.
|
|
spunkymonkey
Likes DAFs
Currently waltzing Matilda
Posts: 3,482
|
Post by spunkymonkey on Jun 27, 2009 20:07:56 GMT
;D Look forward to seeing the results next week - Tesco Colour restorer cuts almost as well as TCut btw and is under £2 a bottle
|
|
|
Post by dafdaffer on Jun 27, 2009 21:47:07 GMT
i wouldn't bother just fit a nylock nut
Paul
|
|
pauldaf44
Likes DAFs
Totally addicted to quirky tat
Posts: 2,068
|
Post by pauldaf44 on Jun 28, 2009 13:12:14 GMT
!£$%£%^$ $%^%U$^%$ %^&%^&%%^&%^& ^$%^$%^$$%^$%^$%^ Im sure everyone knows what that meens i took it out today and ^%&$$ thing stuck again not best pleased in fact serioulsly $^%$^% off anyone think of anything else I can do or is it gonna need a new strut, if so it will need new trackrod ends as well as the wont come apart again without breaking. @£$%$%$
Paul
|
|
spunkymonkey
Likes DAFs
Currently waltzing Matilda
Posts: 3,482
|
Post by spunkymonkey on Jun 28, 2009 13:30:28 GMT
Nothing springs to mind without seeing it but bring C spanner (or whatever you used to strip it) and car to Lichfield and we'll sort it, Paul. Meanwhile, try slackening off and re-tightening the gland nut with the strut in place - worked on Iasbel
|
|