spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Dec 20, 2010 17:20:04 GMT
YOu really think I'm going down there in this weather? ? ;D Anyway, having been below zero for the past 48 hours or so, and down to -8 last night, even if it's managed to eat it's way through there'll be no way of knowing cos it'll be stuk in like a popsicle in it's wrapper
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Dec 20, 2010 22:03:02 GMT
No hurry, it's back down to -6 again (not been above -3 all day) so it should still be shrinking in there. You never know, the freezing witches brew in there might even solve the problem by cracking the barrel off for me ;D
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Dec 24, 2010 17:03:14 GMT
Looks like Pete will be getting a late Christmas present sometime. Still no movement on that piston so, today, this happened: So there will be all those photos of reassembly sometime On a slightly less cheerful note, it hasn't helped me at all because there's still no way I can get to the con-rod bolts: I'm really getting to the point where it'll be angle grinder through the barrel!
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33grinder
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Post by 33grinder on Dec 24, 2010 19:32:19 GMT
You know it makes sense Joe (not the angle grinder bit though but I do know where you're coming from!) I'm sure it'll all come good in the end. Thanks in advance for my Christmas present by the way!
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Dec 24, 2010 20:56:49 GMT
That very unpleasant looking crud is coke, John. It's been in there since Saturday. Only, it sort of fizzed a bit then froze solid (it is -5 outside at the moment and has been -8 a couple of nights!). What you can see is a sort of coke-flavoured ice cream with added minerals (in the form of oil). And no, I didn't taste it to confirm the "coke flavoured" bit ;D
Oil pump is already off and absolutely fine, thankfully. Tappets have a little flash of rust on their faces but I've emptied about 1/2 a tin of penetrating oil over everything to hopefully protect it while it's exposed like that over the next few days.
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on Dec 24, 2010 21:49:01 GMT
Can you not use a socket with a flexi drive, and I don't mean UJs. Otherwise a very fine toothed ratchet spanner and patience may be the way forward
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Dec 24, 2010 22:36:38 GMT
Nope. The photo doesn't make it all that cleat, but the bolt heads are about 2 inches below the casing flange you can see on the right of the photo. So, unless someone's invented a flexi-drive that'll undo something like 40 lb/ft through a 180 degree U-turn they ain't coming out from that side unless I drill them. And I'd rather cut & split the barrel than try that ;D
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Bob Scrivens
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Post by Bob Scrivens on Dec 25, 2010 0:33:47 GMT
Well Joe its looking more like the 3 legged puller and lots of heat on that piston!!! Or pour water in the top end let it freeze and see what happens!!!! Got the barrel and piston ready
Bob.
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Dec 30, 2010 22:38:28 GMT
Already tried the 3-leg puller with heat, Bob, and the barrel's now missing a couple of cooling fins as a result Today I hoped to reward 33G with a good-news update in return for the brake master cyls that arrived safe today. The posty apologised for the damp corner on the box and couldn't understand how it happened. I didn't like to explain that it was like that shortly after packing cos it was brake fluid, not water ;D So, the hoped-for update goes something like this: Take an old spark plug and grind away the crimp until this happens: Take the solid tube from a new, cheap, grease gun, weld it into the plug body and fit to a cylinder head: fill the top of the bore with oil, fit the head (without push-rods so the valves stay shut) and top up with oil through the tube: Maybe you can see where this is going? The plan was: attach grease gun, pump as much grease in under pressure as possible and (hopefully) the pressure will either move the piston or force the oil past the rings and crud where it can start freeing stuff up. What actually happened was: So much for £4.50 Amtek grease guns Next plan is to work out a better pump - maybe using the old, unsafe, brake master* - but I was a little disappointed (to say the least) when it broke like that so shut up shop and came home. *or may just connect up my pressure washer and use water. 1400 psi acting on an 8.8 square inch piston = about 5.5tonnes pressure by my reckoning which should move something! Not entirely sure the head studs (or their threads in the alloy casing) would stand it though............
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Bob Scrivens
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Post by Bob Scrivens on Dec 30, 2010 23:10:12 GMT
Joe I also have a spare con rod!!
Bob
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Jan 2, 2011 19:07:34 GMT
Update time!!!! In fact, there are three updates today but I'm under strict orders not to post one of them. So, the ones I'm allowed to mention: Had an email from Steve Bidwell a couple of days ago and Matilda should be having a visit to verify that she's not really a VW beetle in drag or some-such in a week or two. Hopefully it's then just wait for DVLA to agree and send a nice new V5! It'll be a relief when the paperwork is sorted and we (hopefully) have it confirmed that she can keep her original plates! Not one of the 3 updates really but, on the oily side, I've now got all the locks at home ready to re-cut the tumblers so that Betty's keys fit. It's looking very unlikely indeed that the originals are going to turn up now so we need to do something and quite like the idea of having a pair of Dafs that work on the same keys. So, finally, on to the main news. The piston has moved!!! Sian picked up another grease gun (same make and model) while she was out on new year's eve so decided to give it another go. Got the gun connected up and some pressure in there, then heated the cylinder gently in the hope it would start to get something down past the rings: Not saying I was putting a lot of pressure on but I did stick a spring balance on the gun handle and measured it at about a 10 lb pull. Given the 4:1 leverage on the handle and the 1/4 inch diameter piston in the pump, I make that around 800psi ignoring any losses - it was forcing gear oil and grease past the closed valves into the exhaust & inlet ports! Anyway, with around a tonne and a half of pressure on the piston, there was a sudden loud (and not very healthy sounding) cracking sound so I stuck a DTI on the crank pulley drive peg and carried on pumping. Another (quieter) crack and it went from this: to this: Definite movement! So I carried on pumping till I ran out of grease (I had 1 1/2 400g cartridges and it swallowed the lot!) and then whipped the head off hoping to be able to pull the barrel now things had given up. No such luck - it's still too tight to move with a puller!!!! The bore is definitely fubar'd: With the number of cooling fins that now have bits missing, I'll be needing a replacement. Luckily Bob Scrivens has already offered barrels and pistons so just need to work out how we get them here. I'm also now faced with the slight problem that it's getting very close to BDC on the crank so even with more grease I can probably only get another 1/2 inch or so of movement by pumping unless I split the crank case again and pump the whole piston / con-rod/ crank assembly out as one piece. Just have to be careful what the crank lands on if it suddenly comes free with that sort of pressure behind it
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Post by bettyskeeper on Jan 2, 2011 19:36:58 GMT
As the weather was a little warmer Tilly had her driver's door card done which meant I had to re-do the first one as this one went even whiter After seeing this I had to attack the rear cards which turned this into this Then I looked at the seat and decided to give it another go today before after
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33grinder
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Post by 33grinder on Jan 2, 2011 21:23:22 GMT
Wow, more good progress! The sears and cards have come up nicely and glad to see that piston finally starting to give in to it's master.
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on Jan 3, 2011 9:47:52 GMT
Joe if its now at BDC can you now get at the bolts to remove the conrod from the crank and lift the whole lot off that way
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Jan 3, 2011 19:09:59 GMT
One that Sian forgot to post yesterday - she also attacked the parcel shelf which went from this: to this: In other news, I carried on pumping grease into the barrel, after removing the 4 nuts holding the crank-case together. As hoped, that allowed the case to separate when the crank reached BDC so the piston could continue down the barrel: All good, I thought, as it got to the point that the transmission fluid I'd filled the bore with started draining out through the bottom. But no! Despite now being this far out of the bottom of the bore: the piston is still too tight to pull the bore off (I've broken another 4 cooling fins trying) or hammer the piston out (I've hit it as hard as I dare and got NO movement). Also, before anyone helpfully suggests it, no there is NOT room to get onto the big-end bolts. I've left it soaking but, if it won't shift next time I'm down there, it's getting cut and split.
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kenr
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Post by kenr on Jan 3, 2011 21:40:15 GMT
That is one tough cookie.
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Bob Scrivens
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Post by Bob Scrivens on Jan 3, 2011 22:46:13 GMT
Joe after all that treatment they aint going to be any good to use again, apart from an ash tray!
Bob.
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Jan 3, 2011 22:54:03 GMT
Funnily enough, we need an ashtray down there ;D
Don't think the barrel will be in any condition to hold ash after tomorrow but the piston might polish up nicely!
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Jan 4, 2011 23:43:10 GMT
Didn't get to play engines today following an "Isabel won't start" call around lunch time. So, as a bit of a change, I thought it was time to do a little amateur lock-smithing for your entertainment this evening. How to fit old locks to old keys. In this case, the locks are Matilda's and the key is Betty's. Two Dafs, one key... First you need to remove the locks from the car - I'll leave you to work that out for yourselves cos I haven't got any photos from that stage. Once the locks are out, the door lock is the easiest because the barrel is the easiest to remove. Take one door handle: and undo the screw that holds the plate to the barrel: The barrel then simply pushes out of the handle: Now put the "new" key into the barrel and see where the tumblers sit: To make the key work, you now need to file all the sticking-out bits of tumbler down flush with the barrel body: You'll find that one side of the lock is quite easy to file but on the other side the tumblers will push into the body against spring pressure. Use a small screwdriver pressing against the opposite end of these tumblers so you can get pressure on to file them. All tumblers need to end up flush with the barrel when the key's inserted. They also need to be carefully de-burred to keep the lock smooth. The end one in this photo has a little further to go: Once they're all flush, refit the barrel to the lock and test. Locked: and unlocking (just to prove it turns): If it's a little rough then remove again and file a little more as needed. The boot lock is taken apart by removing the screw and assorted lock bits (this will have been done when you remove it from the car - I'd put them back together for safekeeping) and prising out the spring ring in the end: For the (dash mounted) ignition switch, carefully prise up the three crimps holding the lock body to the switch and slide the switch from the body: Remove the barrel, which simply lifts out of the switch: and use a suitable small punch to tap out the pin holding everything together: That allows the barrel to come out of the body: Both the boot and ignition barrels, once removed, are treated to the same filing as the door lock. Note that doing this reduces security a bit because it widens the range of keys that will open the lock - the original one will still work, as will the new one, and any with a profile in between the two on the tumblers that have been filed. That said, the locks on these provide so little security anyway that if the altered ones don't stop someone then it's very unlikely that original ones will either!
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Post by dafdaffer on Jan 4, 2011 23:52:36 GMT
thats quite good. not going to ask how you got good at it
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33grinder
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Post by 33grinder on Jan 4, 2011 23:59:06 GMT
Good stuff Joe and another job jobbed. And really you needed a break from that stuck cylinder! As you say, no lock is unbreachable but for the opportunist theif who presses the lock in on the chance the door or boot is unlocked it's fine, they will just move on to the next car...
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Jan 5, 2011 11:39:36 GMT
No problem at all, John I'll be putting it onto my site at some time anyway but it was quicker to post here when I finished last night. As for learning to play with them, had a design tech project many, many, years ago where we had to design and make a lock ourselves. That got me interested in how different types work and I have a personality flaw that, when I want to know how something works, I can't help pulling some apart to find out. It started with Mum's record player when I was about 4 and far too young to get it bcak together again ..... ;D
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Post by Nick the man with a daf.... on Jan 5, 2011 17:37:33 GMT
No problem at all, John I'll be putting it onto my site at some time anyway but it was quicker to post here when I finished last night. As for learning to play with them, had a design tech project many, many, years ago where we had to design and make a lock ourselves. That got me interested in how different types work and I have a personality flaw that, when I want to know how something works, I can't help pulling some apart to find out. It started with Mum's record player when I was about 4 and far too young to get it bcak together again ..... ;D hehe me too !!! did you struggle hiding all the bits?? I still remember clearly my dad shouting at me about the fact I had dismantled his record player into its base components and he couldnt find anything and behind him on the shed roof sticking out like a lamp-post was his record arm and stylus... I killed 3 before they realised and hid all the tools
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Jan 5, 2011 18:33:57 GMT
;D I just told kept telling them I could have put it together again if they hadn't taken all the bits away Speaking of which, here's one I can't put back together - don't think my welding skills are up to a repair, so can I have a B for "barrel" and a P for "piston" please Bob? Even at this point it needed a lump hammer to finally get the piston out! Unfortunately, I cut a little deeper than I planned so also wrote off the piston (not that it looks all that good anyway!): On the plus side, the big end shells look ok and the crank pins look perfect: Next visit is going to involve an awful lot of cleaning up around where I've been working. There's about 1/2 lb of grease and over a litre of assorted oil that's escaped over the bench (and my tools) which doesn't make an ideal environment for engine assembly!
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33grinder
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Post by 33grinder on Jan 5, 2011 19:44:15 GMT
Hooray!! At least it's out now Joe and you also have the added benefit of the ashtray your workshop was missing! I'll look forward to the engine rebuilding photos!! ;D
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on Jan 5, 2011 20:40:09 GMT
Just get the isopon out Joe and that piston be good as new ;D
Good too see you defeated the defiant DAF and that the rest of the components look okay
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Post by dafdaffer on Jan 5, 2011 21:22:40 GMT
a few years ago i purchased a couple of spare engine from a guy who used to own a very early v343, they looked ok but had been sat in a cellar for a few years. when biddys engine failed i decided to strip one of them down to remove the piston, when the head come off it was full of orange water which looked about the same as your piston , hope you can get another ok, ps is it the same as the 44? as the rings are apparently the same?
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Jan 5, 2011 22:10:26 GMT
Bob's got a spare to go with his spare barrel - I double checked before going Rambo on it They're also available new off the shelf from Thorntons in Shrewsbury, although I'm not sure how they stop the chocolate melting when you start it
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Post by dafdaffer on Jan 6, 2011 0:00:14 GMT
dont talk to me about thorntons although i know the shop you are talking off.
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Jan 6, 2011 10:37:12 GMT
No real regrets, John. I probably could have got it out intact in the end but it's held me up for almost 2 months now so it deserved to die ;D Your ashtray depends a bit on how well the other piston cleans up, Mac. If it looks serviceable once the crud's off it then I'll only be able to make one
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