spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Dec 7, 2010 22:55:37 GMT
About 70p for 330 ml instead of 17p for 2000ml? ;D
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Bob Scrivens
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Post by Bob Scrivens on Dec 7, 2010 23:12:32 GMT
Joe have you tried removing the 4 studs that hold the head, if you can get them off then you can tried putting force on the barrel to try and twist it off? Worth a try!! Also Joe, now you have the barrel off the other pot, if you remove little end pin & piston you can get at the big end bearing cap nuts to remove that rod and barrel so you can work on it on the bench.
Bob
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Dec 7, 2010 23:37:53 GMT
I like your way of thinking, Bob! Much as I'm happy to do a full photo story if it comes to that, I really would prefer not to disturb stuff that doesn't need to be disturbed ;D
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Dec 8, 2010 17:19:32 GMT
No chance today to get down and do more in the workshop but Sian was out so I did something that she'll shout at me for. No, really, I'll be in trouble for this but just couldn't help myself..... The interior stuff is Sian's to do cos she can't help much with the mechanical bits but I brought the wooden dash home last week sometime and today I couldn't resist attacking the centre bit to see how it came up. This is what it started like: With plenty of scrubbing it cleaned up quite nicely to this: Not bad, but the shininess is a bit lacking in places and it still had a bit of a grubby effect to it. So out came the sandpaper for a (very) light cleanup: and the bottle of French Polish that's been sitting around since the last clock case I needed the stuff for. It doesn't seem appropriate to go for a full glass-finish polish - I think that would look a little out of place personally, but the stuff is really good for sealing wood and giving a light shine. Needs a couple more coats yet to cover the dry bits and smooth out the swirls but I think the effect is about right like this: ;D *** edited to add ooh ahh, just a little bit more....
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Dec 8, 2010 23:28:33 GMT
I was right - Sian's really not happy with me now. I left the rest for her but it didn't help
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kenr
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Post by kenr on Dec 8, 2010 23:49:32 GMT
Bad Joe, very bad Joe. You were told but no, you didn't listen did you.
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Dec 10, 2010 13:16:11 GMT
Ohhhh, vent trims and engine mount arrived today ;D Pete, can you pass on huge thanks to Matt please cos his number's stuck in my old dead phone so I can't do it myself until I find a way to get into it
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Post by bettyskeeper on Dec 10, 2010 18:01:04 GMT
Don't be mad Sian...Joe is only giving you a helping hand. John I've every right to be mad, I can't do much on the car so I'm throwing a paddy as Joe couldn't wait
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Dec 10, 2010 18:09:51 GMT
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33grinder
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Post by 33grinder on Dec 10, 2010 18:17:19 GMT
Good work on that dash Joe! If you get the chance to make me a paper template for Tigga I'd be very grateful! Will pass on your thanks to Matt and I will get round to posting those brake bits, promise!
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Dec 10, 2010 20:56:43 GMT
Thanks Pete, I don't think it'd pass on the Antiques Roadshow but I'm happy with it Template should be no problem - it's 4 pieces, all simple flat stuff, and none much bigger than a sheet of A4 so should be able to do a set on card. 12 (visible) screws into the plastic original hold the lot - my next decision is how to finish them. The choice is between: Paint the heads black Clean and polish then clear laquer Clean, polish and then continue the clockmaker theme by heat treating them to any of the colours on this rod: I think a deep purple might look quite fetching with the red and white interior?
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33grinder
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Post by 33grinder on Dec 11, 2010 12:06:27 GMT
Yep, deep purple on the screw heads on Deep Purple in the CD player...
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Dec 12, 2010 17:43:25 GMT
Well, it's starting to lok like Pete might get his wished-for photo strip-down after all. Will sort out some pics from today once my camera has some charge back in it but, basically, I can't see any way to get that piston moving in situ without risking damage to other bits. I also can't get the big-end undone without stripping the block because it has bolts going from the top (piston side) to the bottom (cap side) so can't get at them from the other side Didn't really want to split the case because I'd rather not be resealing stuff that's not leaking now but I suspect I'll be breaking out the hylomar soon and asking Bob for a spare piston and barrel. Just hope once it's off the piston is low enough to get the gudgeon pin out. Otherwise it could become a case of smashing things up to save the conrod!
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kenr
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Post by kenr on Dec 12, 2010 19:11:44 GMT
Damn.
Go on Joe, try the good stuff (Cola). It's only a few pence and it might work.
No I don't own shares hehehehe.
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Bob Scrivens
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Ex owner of the green machine
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Post by Bob Scrivens on Dec 12, 2010 21:30:46 GMT
Hi Joe have you use a blow torch on the barrel yet, maybe a bit of heating and cooling may speed up the freeing. Are you leaving it with a bit of a load between the piston and barrel over night?
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pauldaf44
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Post by pauldaf44 on Dec 12, 2010 22:04:15 GMT
Or a 10 ton bench press. Thats what removed my clutch housing bearing and it took all 10 tons as well
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Dec 12, 2010 23:18:48 GMT
The only reason for it not working is that the ring to bore seal seems to be virtually perfect - it was soaking for a full week while we were away and the level didn't go down even a millimetre. Looking at the other piston, it looks like the sticking may be varnish below the rings - if whatever it's soaking in can't get down there then it ain't going to dissolve anything! Ideally I'd want it soaking from the bottom up but that's a little hard to physically manage
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Dec 13, 2010 0:12:32 GMT
Tried that (got a camping stove and saucepan down there) ;D
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Dec 13, 2010 12:58:44 GMT
;D Yeah, like I've got gallons of liquid nitrogen hanging round with nothing to do
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Dec 13, 2010 14:26:26 GMT
There's less and less stopping me as I strip more and more off it, John ;D It's just, if I go much further it'll be in two halves anyway
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Post by dafdaffer on Dec 13, 2010 20:12:27 GMT
think i have a new piston in a box, ps have you tried diesel? i have even heard that cilit bang does the job
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stefan
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If it isn't broken fix it till it is
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Post by stefan on Dec 13, 2010 20:45:19 GMT
BANG and the rust is gone
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Dec 14, 2010 21:52:38 GMT
Haven't been down to do any more over the past couple of days but have finally got the photos sorted from Saturday. The plan was to start stripping down stuff that had to come off anyway so I started with the clutch housing - obviously, clutch needs checking and also rear oil seal would be sensible to change while it's out! This isn't meant as a full guide but gives an ideas, and a couple of hints for anyone heading into that area. Having removed the starter motor and made sure all the housing bolts / studs are undone (don't forget the one under the o/s engine mounting bracket!) the housing can be gently persuaded away from the engine: In this case the flywheel centre bearing came out on the end of the clutch shaft - this is not what's meant to happen but saves a bit of aggro making up a suitable puller to remove it from the flywheel centre! The bearing itself is good so will go back in (assuming it comes off the clutch shaft without damage!) The clutch shoes are also good, and all still firmly bonded, although they'll probably get a couple of copper rivets each before reassembly to make sure they stay that way. Having the centre bearing removed allows access to the flywheel bolts. Note the 4-way tab washer that locks those bolts - more on that in a minute. For now, note that the tabs have been bent back just enough to release the bolt heads. Note also the large circlip that acts as a location for the clutch bearing. It's a seriously heavy duty clip and gets inconveniently in the way of the flywheel bolt heads. If you have a decent pair of circlip pliers then feel free to remove it but, if not, you can turn the clip so that the thin bit near its end gives clearance round the bolts for a standard socket. Undo one bolt, move the clip to the next, and so on: Once the bolts are out, the flywheel should come off the end of the crank with a little gentle persuasion. Before removing it I decided to mark the flywheel position in relation to the crank. It may not make any difference but it should have come out of the factory acceptably balanced so may as well make sure it goes back the same way round. A couple of light centre-punch marks on one dowel and beside the associated hole does the job nicely. As with anything like this, work it a bit from one point then a bit more from the opposite side so it comes of approximately straight. Once the flywheels off you have access to the rear oil seal. Now back to that tab washer. You can try to order a new one, or make a new one, if you want but - as long as there's no sign of cracking where you bent the tabs back, you should be good to go with the old one provided you anneal it around the areas where it's been bent. Heat it to red-hot and hold it at that for a minute or so, making sure that the "bend" at the base of each tab is in the glowing bit. Then let it cool naturally - do NOT quench it: That's about all for now. Did start stripping down the front end as well but I think this post's getting a little long so that can wait for next time
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33grinder
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Post by 33grinder on Dec 14, 2010 23:06:00 GMT
Great report Joe and nice to see one of the earlier clutch arrangements too. I'll look forward to further updates!
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v8gasser
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Post by v8gasser on Dec 15, 2010 18:16:08 GMT
Excellent update , thanks
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Dec 16, 2010 21:15:01 GMT
Glad people are enjoying it (even before I start taking a lump hammer to that piston!) A bit more from last visit. I continued stripping all the accessory type stuff from the front end, starting with the dynamo, which is a simple 3 bolts, then one more for the adjusting bracket, that I didn't bother photographing. The front dynamo pivot bolt also holds the distributor clamping plate so, once that bolt's out, the distributor can be removed by (firmly in this case) twisting and pulling it until it gives up: Nice little detail on Matilda's distributor is a riveted on Bosch maker's plate which, unfortunately, is completely out of site when it's fitted: With the dynamo removed, the fuel pump is also easy to access for removal, not forgetting to remove it's actuating pushrod. The rod will stay in the block when you remove the pump but is liable to drop out if you don't remove it and put it safe somewhere! Next is to remove the oil filler. Undo the 4 nuts holding it. The n/s front bolt also holds the top oil cooler bracket so undo the bolt holding it to the oil cooler and remove the bracket. Pull off the small plastic oil drain pipe from just below the filler cap and lift the whole filler casting away: Once the filler is off, lift out and save the shim from the top of the distributor drive: That was it for that visit. Today, I found time to remove the "free" piston (didn't take photos of that cos I was too busy swearing at it), stick the engine on it's side, and pour half a bottle of coke into the bottom of the stuck bore. Oh, then get the barrel hot enough for it to start boiling inside the engine ;D before it got very very cold and the electricity went off in the workshop I'm also heading ever closer to deciding that the case should be split for peace of mind, having found light rust on the conrod and seen how much loose gunge there is waiting to fall inside. Far easier to make sure it's clean if it's in two pieces!
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kenr
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Post by kenr on Dec 16, 2010 21:49:22 GMT
Was that 'proper' coke then Joe. When all the coke is removed will it be 'decoked'?
bloomin' brilliant work so far mate. I am in awe. This car will be a little belter (ha, just realised what I'd typed there). No pun intended.
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33grinder
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Post by 33grinder on Dec 16, 2010 21:50:14 GMT
Well done Joe, you know it makes sense! With the body in such sound shape and the stuck piston it makes sense to delve deeper. Hopefully you'll have that piston unstuck soon and it makes sense to check everything over - everything looks good in any case
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Dec 16, 2010 22:14:22 GMT
Cheers guys My biggest worry (apart from having to reseal everything) is that, if I strip it completely, I won't be able to resist matching and balancing everything. Mmmm, Daf with lightened con rods / pistons and a light port & polish on the heads......... ;D
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kenr
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Post by kenr on Dec 20, 2010 17:00:42 GMT
Well, has the coke worked yet Joe? Hope springs eternal!
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