spunkymonkey
Likes DAFs
Currently waltzing Matilda
Posts: 3,482
|
Post by spunkymonkey on Feb 1, 2011 22:03:44 GMT
Anyone like an update? Still waiting on the pistons but spent some time today getting ready for their arrival. First job was to persuade the r/h heat exchanger to separate from the cylinder head - I'd removed them together because they were stuck fast and had been dreading sorting it out. It took about 45 minutes of gentle persuasion using screwdrivers, hammers and swear words but finally gave in. there will be lots of copaslip used on reassembly! That sorted, the valves got a quick lapping and I had a little play with the odd Ford valve stem seals that I'd worked out should fit. They take a fair bit of adapting but it looks like they'll go on and stay on so all good there. Then it was on to something for Pete. I'm assuming in the following that everything's been thoroughly cleaned and inspected so here's the first part of putting a Daf engine together: First step is to take the right hand half of the engine casing and support it reasonably flat (open side up) on your bench: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/rhCasing.jpg) Note that the right hand casing is the one with two dowels fitted in the crank main bearing supports. The Autodata book seems to have this the wrong way round and tells you to start with the l/h casing ![:P](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/tongue.png) Make a last check that everything's clean, especially the mating face which will have to seal to the other half of the case with nothing but a little hylomar to help it! Take a tappet - ideally matched to it's original position but that's not actually essential if there's no appreciable wear. Make sure it's clean and lubricate the sides and face, then fit to it's hole: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/lubeTappet.jpg) ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/tappetFace.jpg) ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/fitTappet.jpg) Repeat for the other one. Incidentally, I'm using Lucas Oil assembly lube for this engine because it's likely to be sitting for a while before start-up and oil would tend to drain away. The assembly stuff is almost like treacle so it's going to stay where it's put. It also includes lots of high-pressure / anti-scuff lubricating goodness like zinc and molybdenum which is no bad thing on a first start. It also just happens that we have a stockist just down the road ;D For an engine that's going into service pretty soon, plenty of normal engine oil is a perfectly good alternative though. Next the main bearings need to be lubricated. The (solid) shells each have two holes in them for oil supply in use and now's the time to squirt some oil or green gooey stuff (whichever you're using) into them. Oil both holes while slowly turning the bearing on the crankshaft so the lubricant works its way round inside the bearing: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/lubeMains.jpg) Once that's done place the crankshaft in the half casing for support while you fit the first (right hand) con-rod. The rods should have been marked "L" and "R" in the factory, but if not you hopefully marked them on removal? The factory marking on this engine was on the "bottom" of the rod - the side that faces the sump in use. This is the right hand rod, the left was stamped a lot clearer: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/rodMarking.jpg) If you're refitting the original big-end shells then make sure you've identified which rod they're from, and which is the top and bottom shell on that rod, before removing them. An easy way to do this is to wrap them in card with the position written on it (this is the right-hand bottom shell removed from it's wrapping). Make sure that the shells, especially the backs are spotless and the same for the inside of the con-rod. The emphasis is on the back because any grit here will distort the shell when it's tightened up and can cause seizure. Dirt on the fronts is also bad news but will probably either flush out as you lube them or embed itself in the bearing surface. Fit the shells to the right hand rod and lubricate liberally with whatever you're using - again, I'm using the green sticky stuff: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/lubeBigEnd.jpg) Fit the rod to the crank pin that's inline with the hole for the barrel, slide the cap into place, and torque the bolts to 22 lb/ft. The bolts are supposed to be single use but the chance of finding replacements is probably zero and they're not torqued enough to stretch on fitting. ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/fitRHRod.jpg) ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/torqueBigEnd.jpg) It's easier to fit it pointing the "wrong" way (ie: up in the air) but make sure that it the right way round so that, when it's pointing into it's barrel, the marks will be correct (in this case, facing the sump). That's not so important if you're fitting new shells because the rods are symmetrical but, if you're re-fitting the old shells, you want everything back in exactly the same place as they've run before. If not, you'll lose life on them as they bed in to their new positions. Once the r/h rod is fitted, lift out the crank again and let the rod drop so it's pointing in the right direction. Now re-fit the crank. This time you want it in it's proper place, which means making sure that the dowels in the casing locate in the blind holes drilled in the bearing: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/mainDowelHole.jpg) Once they're located correctly, the oil holes in the bearing should line up with the flat face of the casing. This is important because if it doesn't then (a) the dowel will distort the bearing as it's all bolted together and (b) there will be no oil supply to the bearing so it'll die! ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/oilHoleAligned.jpg) Now fit the other (left hand) con-rod the same as you did the first one, remembering to make sure all markings are correctly aligned, and move on to the camshaft. The cam drive gear on the crankshaft has two side-by-side teeth marked with scribe lines. Note that they're also beside the keyway that holds the gear in place: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/crankGearMarking.jpg) The camshaft gear has a single scribed tooth: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/camGearMarking.jpg) which has to be placed in the gap between the marked crank teeth. Place the camshaft with it's gear in mesh with the crank, making sure that the marked tooth is in the gap between the two marked teeth on the crank gear: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/meshGearsA.jpg) And then rotate the crank gently, keeping the mesh correct, to allow the camshaft to move into it's bearings: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/positionCam.jpg) That's as far as it went for today, so the other half case was dropped into place to keep dirt out until next time...... ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/tempFitCover.jpg)
|
|
33grinder
Likes DAFs
CHPD* sufferer (*Compulsive Heap Purchasing Disorder)
Posts: 2,905
|
Post by 33grinder on Feb 1, 2011 22:54:33 GMT
Wow! Great report and photos Joe! ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) This will make me much happier about tackling my rebuild and with a guide like that what could possibly go wrong with mine..... ![::)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/eyesroll.png) ;D I'll look forward to part two and don't worry, the pistons really are on their way! ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png)
|
|
spunkymonkey
Likes DAFs
Currently waltzing Matilda
Posts: 3,482
|
Post by spunkymonkey on Feb 1, 2011 23:14:45 GMT
I must admit, Pete, I've been surprised what an easy engine it is to assemble. I'm also becoming increasingly impressed (as is Brian who owns the place - who's done a lot of race engine prep in his time) with the standard of engineering in them. I had the con rods here yesterday planning to weigh and balance them but decided that I couldn't realistically improve on the 0.2g (yes, that's 2 tenths of a gram!) match that they came out of the factory with! Maybe that was a fluke in this engine but it's one hell of a fluke if it was - Triumph specified matching within 7g for the 1300's and they were considered a pretty well balanced factory engine for the time!
Then there's the nice two-part, spring loaded, gear on the camshaft to remove all backlash - if you look closely at the 2nd last photo above you can see wear on the "trailing" side of the crank gear at the back and on the "leading" side at the front. Look at the cam gear and it's in two parts (thick gear at the front and a thinner one behind it). They're spring-loaded so they try to sit 1/2 tooth out of pitch with each other which makes them press on both sides of the crank teeth in use - zero backlash!
In fact, the more I see the more I want to find a spare engine to see just what can be done with it. The basic quality has got to be good for 50 hp or so!
|
|
stefan
Likes DAFs
If it isn't broken fix it till it is
Posts: 1,282
|
Post by stefan on Feb 2, 2011 8:12:15 GMT
I think although not done it with block machining 94mm vw barrels will go on for 1020cc, also looking into twin cam BMW bike heads as well.
|
|
spunkymonkey
Likes DAFs
Currently waltzing Matilda
Posts: 3,482
|
Post by spunkymonkey on Feb 2, 2011 13:56:25 GMT
Pistons arrived today, thanks Pete & Matt, with a minor complication - they're 1mm oversize so we'll be needing a rebore. Ever get the feeling that the Gods are conspiring against you? ![???](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/huh.png) ;D Still, there's a place locally that can do them and once that's done it'll be like a new engine (and turn her into an 763cc beast!) so all good in the end ![;)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/wink.png)
|
|
pauldaf44
Likes DAFs
Totally addicted to quirky tat
Posts: 2,068
|
Post by pauldaf44 on Feb 2, 2011 13:59:59 GMT
Joe at least needing a rebore you know that the bores will be perfect. This will be one sound engine so maybe the DAF gods are thinking of you in that they want you to do it perfectly and have a superb car at the end. Great report that. This makes me hope that the 844cc is as well engineered and shows why DAF twins go on and on unlike certain french 4 pots ![;)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/wink.png)
|
|
spunkymonkey
Likes DAFs
Currently waltzing Matilda
Posts: 3,482
|
Post by spunkymonkey on Feb 2, 2011 14:54:19 GMT
The 844 is identical internally, Paul, so yes it is as well engineered ![;)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/wink.png)
|
|
33grinder
Likes DAFs
CHPD* sufferer (*Compulsive Heap Purchasing Disorder)
Posts: 2,905
|
Post by 33grinder on Feb 2, 2011 17:56:00 GMT
Sorry Joe, we had no idea! ![::)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/eyesroll.png) Still, at least she will have that extra bit of poke which will be handy round your way with all those hills. ![;)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/wink.png) I look forward to pitting Gavina up against her to see the awesome power of those extra horses! ;D
|
|
spunkymonkey
Likes DAFs
Currently waltzing Matilda
Posts: 3,482
|
Post by spunkymonkey on Feb 2, 2011 18:49:10 GMT
;D Gavina will win because the 32's start out with a disadvantage, Pete - smaller valves and a milder camshaft giving (iirc) 30 bhp instead of 32. Hopefully be able to get everything sorted next week and, in the meantime, there's plenty of other stuff to do! Got the photos for the next instalment of the build now but camera battery needs charging so can't get them onto my laptop just yet. It's looking more like an engine again at every step, just got held up again by finding that I'd forgotten to make one gasket - for the oil pump cover. I thought it was metal to metal there but it needs a (thin) gasket to give internal clearance for the pump gears. So I packed up and came home to cut up some A4 ![:P](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/tongue.png)
|
|
|
Post by Nick the man with a daf.... on Feb 2, 2011 20:29:22 GMT
All looking good there . . ! Bet you can't wait to hear it running
|
|
spunkymonkey
Likes DAFs
Currently waltzing Matilda
Posts: 3,482
|
Post by spunkymonkey on Feb 2, 2011 22:01:33 GMT
I've got a feeling it'll be running before it goes back in the car - too much delay otherwise while the bodywork's done ;D So, carrying on from where we left it: The crank, rods and camshaft should all be nicely in place at this point, but take the time to double check everything (especially cam timing) before proceeding. You don't want to find a mistake once it's all back together! While you're at it, check the crankshaft end-float using feeler gauges between the flange of a main bearing and the crank web. Push the crankshaft fully backwards (it shouldn't move far!) and check the gap to the front bearing flange: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/checkEndFloat.jpg) It should be between 4 and 12 thou and is very unlikely to be wrong. If it's a little wide then you can try to find new main bearings and thrust shims but don't hold your breath! If it's too narrow then find out why - something probably isn't sitting quite right. Remember with things like this that slightly loose is ok, slightly tight can mean a seizure once the engine heats up and everything expands! Once you're happy, place the front and rear oil seals in position, leaving them slightly "proud" so they can be tapped fully home later: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/fitFrontSeal.jpg) ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/fitRebacksideal.jpg) Lubricate the other two tappets as before and put them in their holes in the other (left hand) half casing. Make sure the case mating flanges are nice and clean, and apply a thin coating of sealing compound. Pretty well any of the hylomar type compounds are fine but a non-hardening or semi-hardening one will make things easier if it ever has to come apart again. Note the word "thin" in this bit - it's a precision machined face which should almost seal on it's own and you don't want big globs of gasket compound floating round inside the engine: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/lhCasingReady.jpg) In particular, avoid getting "blobs" of the stuff building up around any of the bolt or oil holes! Apply a similar coating to the face of the rh casing, being careful not to get any on the cam or crank shafts. Make sure the compound goes all the way up to the edges of the two crank seals: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/rhCasingReady.jpg) Give the camshaft sealing cup a light coat of sealant and place in it's groove behind the read camshaft bearing: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/fitCamCap.jpg) You're now ready to mate the two halfs up. Lower the lh casing carefully over the right. and gently seat them together. They should go snugly together without much force - if you find they don't then separate again and find out what's stopping them! ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/fitLHCasing.jpg) Fit nuts with plain washers to the two large studs coming up through the casing and just "nip" them up so the casing is held together. Don't fully tighten just yet! ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/firstNuts.jpg) The really eagle eyed may notice in that photo that there are two washers under the rear nut. This was not deliberate and caused a 10 minute hunt for the "missing" washer that I "must have dropped". Oops! You can now put the engine back on it's sump and fit the two similar nuts (with washers) on the other side. "Nip" them up as well, then work round all 4, gradually and evenly tightening them to a torque of 22 lb/ft. ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/torqueMainNuts.jpg) Now tap the front and rear seals fully flush with the casing. A special tool (basically a big tube) was available for this but, if you don't have a suitable tube then work round gently tapping it in using a block of wood as a drift. Keep working round it's edge to drive it in evenly until it's flush. For the rear, you can use the old seal and a block of wood to drive it in square but still be careful that it goes in evenly: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/driveFrontSeal.jpg) ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/frontSealFlush.jpg) ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/driveRebacksideal.jpg) Fit the 7 bolts round the edge of the casing, remembering to attach the small bracket with the one at the bottom rear (under the clutch area). No photos of this, but the bolt in question shows in a later one. Work round these bolts and tighten them to 15 lb/ft torque. The two studs that hold the rear cam bearing together are then fitted "using a new tab washer". Seeing as a new tab washer isn't going to be available, either make one or anneal the ends of the old one by bringing to cherry red and allowing to cool. The torque setting for these nuts is 6 - 7 lb/ft but you can't get a torque wrench in there. Use your judgement - nice and firm without ripping the studs out! Finally, fold up the tab washer ends and the casing is back together! ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/camNutsLocked.jpg) At this point you should be able to see a very slight bead of sealant trying to escape all the way round the joint, about the amount you can see in the last photo - this is good because it means the whole joint is covered but not so much that it's going to drip everywhere! Next step is to fit the oil strainer. Use new gaskets with a thin coating of sealant on each side of the strainer and tighten gradually using a "diagonal" pattern (first nut, then the opposite one, then one beside the first, then the opposite etc) to keep everything even: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/fitOilStrainer.jpg) ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/oilStrainerFitted.jpg) The last photo shows that lower rear casing bolt that I mentioned, with the small bracket. The oil pump is next to fit. Again, use a new gasket and sealant. The pump is an extremely close fit in the casing and may not want to go in. If you find it won't then loosen the two casing bolts (one either side of it's hole) so that the casing can "give" a little. Even then, it may need to be gently tapped into place. If it does then do NOT hit the pump directly - use a piece of wood between the hammer and the pump and keep everything as square as possible while getting it started! ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/fitOilPump.jpg) ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/driveOilPump.jpg) As it goes in, the driven gear will probably try to come out of the pump - which means that it's drive dog (visible in the first photo) hasn't engaged in the camshaft nose. If that happens then simply turn the gear until it lines up and will push back in. Once the pump body is in, remember to re-torque the two bolts if you had to loosen them. At this point you would normally fit the pump cover / front engine mount but (being a little scatter-brained) I'd forgotten to make a gasket for it. It would seal quite happily metal to metal but there would be no end-float between the gears and the cover. Chewing aluminium up in the oil pump is a very bad idea indeed so I left the pump at that for now while I make up a (thin) gasket. Moving on from there, the distributor drive must be fitted ready for replacing the oil filler. To do this, the engine should be at TDC firing stroke for the lh cylinder. Slip the front pulley on and turn to TDC: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/findTDC.jpg) and check that the tappets for the lh piston are on the heels of the cams (both valves closed): ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/checkValvesClosed.jpg) As the drive is a moving part, lubricate well before fitting: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/lubeDistributorDrive.jpg) and then fit, with the flat on the lower part of the shaft facing the casing joint: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/fitDistributorDrive.jpg) If you find it doesn't want to drop all the way in then turn the crank very slightly in either direction to line up the drive gear with the gear on the bottom of the driveshaft. It should then drop fully home. Place the shim / retainer in place over the driveshaft: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/refitDriveRetainer.jpg) Using a new gasket and sealant, fit the oil filler housing. Remember to place the oil cooler mounting bracket under the front nut nearest the casing joint: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/fitOilFiller.jpg) ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/fitOilCoolerBracket.jpg) Fit and tighten the 4 nuts with flat washers and then refit the small oil drain tube: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/fitOilDrain.jpg) You now have a partly built (and hopefully leak-free!) engine, ready for pistons, cylinders and ancilliaries: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/partBuilt.jpg)
|
|
33grinder
Likes DAFs
CHPD* sufferer (*Compulsive Heap Purchasing Disorder)
Posts: 2,905
|
Post by 33grinder on Feb 2, 2011 22:37:12 GMT
Wow! That engine rebuild is going alarmingly fast ![:o](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/shocked.png) ! When will you have the barrels back from the machine shop to let you finish it? I think I would still be on the strip-down stage. Oh, erm...actually I am! ![:-[](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/embarrassed.png) ;D It's great to see how quickly it's all going together. ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png)
|
|
spunkymonkey
Likes DAFs
Currently waltzing Matilda
Posts: 3,482
|
Post by spunkymonkey on Feb 2, 2011 22:57:29 GMT
Have to wait for next week so we've got cash to sort the cylinders but hopefully it should be ready to run by the end of next week. Gives a little breathing space to paint things (dynamo, starter, front mounting bar and so on) to make it look pretty. May also find time to make up a cradle so we can start it up on the floor for a bit of fun rather than waiting till it's refitted ;D
|
|
spunkymonkey
Likes DAFs
Currently waltzing Matilda
Posts: 3,482
|
Post by spunkymonkey on Feb 3, 2011 10:57:07 GMT
The pump's original, John. On disassembly I removed the 4 studs and split the casing with it in place, then lifted it out ![;)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/wink.png) The gaskets are gasket paper, but 0.4mm instead of the 0.25mm that they used originally so should have a little extra sealing power. The sealant is just to try and make absolutely sure - I'd like this engine to be completely drip free once I'm done!
|
|
spunkymonkey
Likes DAFs
Currently waltzing Matilda
Posts: 3,482
|
Post by spunkymonkey on Feb 3, 2011 19:18:10 GMT
Fairly small update today because things got in the way of doing too much, but the heads now have their valves lapped in and refitted (with stem seals on the inlets but details of that can wait till I do Betty's - hopefully in a month or two). The oil pump and fuel pump are also refitted, for which we have photo goodness in a minute. At that point I ran out of cleaned stuff to put on so called it a night. Having discovered the missing oil pump gasket yesterday I cut a set of 6 last night (so all the sets I have are now complete) and continued with assembly this afternoon. One of the reasons for the gasket under the oil pump cover is to provide end clearance for the pump gears. This clearance needs to be checked before putting the cover on - too little and the pump may start grinding aluminium into the oil, too much and you'll loose oil pressure. The quoted clearance is between 3 and 7 thou, which is checked using a straight-edge and feeler gauges with the gasket in place: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/oilPumpEndfloat.jpg) I like to use the safe edge of a file as a straight-edge for this sort of thing because (a) it's ground flat and (b) it's thick enough that you can put reasonable pressure on it without it biting into the gasket. Check the clearance for both gears, and with the straight edge in a couple of different positions to make sure there are no high spots. In this case, the new (finest Tesco A4) gasket gave a very respectable 4 thou so a very light smear of sealant is put on the pump facing: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/oilPumpSealant.jpg) Fit the gasket and put a similar light smear of sealant on the gasket face. You don't want a thick layer of sealant increasing the clearances, nor do you want sealant squeezing into the pump when you do it up! Place the cover in place and do up the 4 nuts (with shake-proof washers) evenly - as with most things like this, work across the diagonals to be sure it pulls down flat: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/oilPumpFitted.jpg) To fit the fuel pump, put a smear of sealant on the engine block face and a smear on the spacer block, then fit a new gasket to the spacer and fit the block. The block has a small boss on it's "engine" side which is a very close fit in the hole in the engine. By fitting the gasket to the spacer you can make sure that it's edge doesn't get trapped between the boss and the engine block - if it does then the spacer won't fit! ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/fuelPumpSpacer.jpg) Smear the outer face of the spacer with sealant and fit another gasket, then lubricate the pump pushrod and fit it to the spacer with the "short" end going into the engine: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/fuelPumpPushrod.jpg) then smear the fuel pump mounting flange with sealant and fit: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/fitFuelPump.jpg) This is the point where you discover the deliberate mistake you made when reassembling the pump after cleaning it: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/fuelPumpMistake.jpg) So take the top of the pump and do it right this time....... ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/fuelPumpFitted.jpg) That was it for today, except for stripping the distributor ready for cleaning and painting. Have also checked the condenser and it's showing a nice healthy 0.28 microfarads with no leakage after 40 odd years - they don't make 'em like they used to ![;)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/wink.png)
|
|
33grinder
Likes DAFs
CHPD* sufferer (*Compulsive Heap Purchasing Disorder)
Posts: 2,905
|
Post by 33grinder on Feb 3, 2011 21:55:33 GMT
Another great report Joe, well done! ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) On a personal note it's come at just the right time to cheer up a very dreary week! Have you considered having an extended break in Essex? You can travel light (gaskets don't weigh much ![;)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/wink.png) ) and I have a broken engine you could play with and even try to find some of those extra horses! ;D Otherwise I'll just wait for Paul to carry out his threat of kidnapping you!!! Seriously though, much respect for just cracking on with it, you'll have the results soon and can feel rightly proud of your endeavours. ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) One thing I should mention; when Snowdrop's engine was installed Matt didn't want to fire it up as the exhaust wasn't connected and he says the aircooleds don't like running without an exhaust...
|
|
Bob Scrivens
Likes DAFs
Ex owner of the green machine
Posts: 534
|
Post by Bob Scrivens on Feb 3, 2011 21:57:02 GMT
Super job Joe, and I must admit I found the air cooled Daf engines one of the best engines to work on, and no really specials tools needed. That condenser is in excellent condition for its age!! Keep up the fine work.
Bob.
|
|
spunkymonkey
Likes DAFs
Currently waltzing Matilda
Posts: 3,482
|
Post by spunkymonkey on Feb 3, 2011 22:50:32 GMT
If it's prepped right then I'm sure we can sort yours in less than a day on the next Essex meet, Pete ![;)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/wink.png) As for running without the exhaust - they will run but lose a little of their legendary smoothness and are very loud. But Matilda's exhaust is falling off anyway so I'll just bolt the silencer on the back anyway (which reminds me, must get some exhaust gasket sheet!) Really hope to hear it running within a couple of weeks cos time's catching up on us if they're all going to be ready for Henblas in May! Cheers, Bob, it wouldn't be going anywhere without the barrels and rocker cover you came up with! Hopefully it'll be worth it when it's done. I'm a tiny bit concerned about the big-end shells because they'd suffered a little bit of acid attack from the oil over the years - nothing too serious except for one spot on the l/h "upper" shell which had been sitting opposite the oil hole in the crank and has a nice neat circle of the copper base exposed as a result. Still, they'll either last or they won't and there's only one way to find out! And of course I pay attention, Mac - although I did have a gentle try at removing it as the book says before deciding that they'd been smoking something again ;D
|
|
Bob Scrivens
Likes DAFs
Ex owner of the green machine
Posts: 534
|
Post by Bob Scrivens on Feb 4, 2011 9:54:53 GMT
Yep been there, done that, and worn the T shirt, good idear of yours Joe to split the casing with the oil pump. Them big ends are a fair size for such a small cc engine, and with the oils we use these days, should be good to go for many years Joe.
Bob.
|
|
|
Post by Patrick on Feb 4, 2011 15:54:09 GMT
Being a "Where did I leave that....." type of bodger who's given up taking things to pieces because something always spins off into a corner somewhere I'm positively jealous (and fascinated) by all this. Brilliant and very educational. ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png)
|
|
spunkymonkey
Likes DAFs
Currently waltzing Matilda
Posts: 3,482
|
Post by spunkymonkey on Feb 4, 2011 18:21:16 GMT
Cheers everyone, it's certainly getting there with the latest push! Had to get on with some of the slightly less technical stuff today - cleaning and painting bits to go back on. Not my favourite job in the world but has to be done! The front pulley was pretty dire so spun it up in the lathe and wire brushed it within an inch of it's life and added some engine enamel. While I was at it I made a small change to get round one of the few things I've found annoying about these engines. Any of you who know the early aircooled will know that the timing is set by using the TDC mark on the pulley and positioning it "4mm before the carnk case joint". That is damn near impossible to judge so I toot the chance to add an extra mark 4.5 mm ahead of TDC (in fact, correct timing works out at 4.39mm but the mark's wider than the difference. The mark was cut with a junior hacksaw blade after the paint dried so it should show up nicely under a strobe light: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/timingMarks.jpg) It was then time to paint and reassemble the distributor. I must admit I like these early Bosch units - they really are made as precision instruments rather than down to a price! When reassembling the distributor it's a good idea to set the points gap. It's easy to turn while it's out of the engine and saves any "why isn't it firing?" moments later on! I've also coated the base with a very light smear of copaslip because they tend to get a little tight over time which can make timing adjustment awkward: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/fitDistributor.jpg) ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/distributorFitted.jpg) Don't forget to fit the clamp to the distributor before fitting, but you can't bolt the clamp to the engine just yet because it's held on by the front dynamo bolt and the dynamo is still a mess! So, off comes the pulley. The pulley nut is tight and there's not a lot to grip but a handy tip is to wrap an (old) fanbelt round it and do up as tight as you can in a vice: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/undoDynamoNut.jpg) Use an old belt because you will damage it! Once the nut's off and the pulley persuaded off the shaft they can be cleaned, wire brushed and painted: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/dynamoPainted.jpg) I haven't bothered actually stripping the dynamo because the bearings feel good, the brushes are moving freely, and it's easy enough to remove in service if needed. Seeing as there's still plenty to do, saving an hour or so by trusting it seems a fair gamble. The rest of the cowling pieces were next to get a blast of paint. Certainly not "factory fresh" but look respectable enough: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/paintedCowlings.jpg) At that point I decided it was getting too cold and windy so packed up for the evening, but not before getting together the remaining bits that need cleaning up: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/bitsToDo.jpg) That's a much smaller pile than this time last week! Apart from the starter motor it's all cosmetic stuff which is tedious but sensible to do while it's all out of the car. There's also the clutch and bell-housing but they're not looking bad at all so will just want a quick brushing and some grease on the clutch pivots. That was that, so headed home and was just about to start typing this when I got an email from her old owner saying that they've found the original receipt and will get it to us sometime. Bonus! ;D
|
|
33grinder
Likes DAFs
CHPD* sufferer (*Compulsive Heap Purchasing Disorder)
Posts: 2,905
|
Post by 33grinder on Feb 4, 2011 21:37:33 GMT
There's only so many times and so many ways of saying 'another excellent report Joe'. Ooh, I've just found another way! Seriously though, all praise well deserved. Mucho respect for cracking on at such a pace. At this rate you'll have her ready and be twiddling your thumbs waiting for Hemblas! ;D
Great result on the paperwork too!
|
|
spunkymonkey
Likes DAFs
Currently waltzing Matilda
Posts: 3,482
|
Post by spunkymonkey on Feb 4, 2011 22:11:50 GMT
Won't be any thumb twiddling, Pete.
Once Matilda's ready Betty is booked in for some metal replacement (window surrounds, rear arches and backs of her front wings), paint and mechanical fiddling (investigate a few noises, engine out, hone bores and fit valve stem seals), then Sheila's MOT is due the week after the show (some welding to o/s sill and all new suspension bushes to the front), and I've heard a rumour that there's stuff to do on Isabel as well. As some point Sheila also needs her gearbox rebuild while I can still (just about) select all her gears.
Good job Sian hasn't got any decorating planned for me..... ;D
|
|
spunkymonkey
Likes DAFs
Currently waltzing Matilda
Posts: 3,482
|
Post by spunkymonkey on Feb 5, 2011 19:10:31 GMT
Seems I spent the day today painting and decorating after all. At least it wasn't walls: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/paintedBits.jpg) ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/starterMotor.jpg) Also checked the starter (quick flash across a handy 12v battery) and it seems to fire up properly so that's another bit sorted. The carb is now soaking in paraffin ready for stripping and proper cleaning (probably tomorrow) - it was just too caked in crud to take apart without a pre-wash! That's it for the day I'm afraid but should be some meatier stuff on its way soon ![;)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/wink.png)
|
|
33grinder
Likes DAFs
CHPD* sufferer (*Compulsive Heap Purchasing Disorder)
Posts: 2,905
|
Post by 33grinder on Feb 5, 2011 19:35:38 GMT
[/quote] author=thebear5454 board=pictures thread=1599 post=19146 time= DON'T give Sian any ideas Joe. : It is bad enough there are now three of us involved with plasterboarding, sanding and decorating...WE DON'T NEED FOUR OF US DOING IT!!!!!!!!! ;D ;D ;D ;D John[/quote] I make you right there John!!! ;D More good work Joe. Matilda's engine is fast becoming a work of art. ![:P](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/tongue.png) Keep up the good work mate! ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png)
|
|
spunkymonkey
Likes DAFs
Currently waltzing Matilda
Posts: 3,482
|
Post by spunkymonkey on Feb 9, 2011 21:52:57 GMT
Had a trip up to Manchester yesterday, which I've mentioned elsewhere, to meet Johnjenks and his blue 33. We were intending to pick up some useful bits off his spares car but seem to have come back with a little more of it than we expected. Haven't had a chance to unload the trailer yet - apparently women need to visit something called a hairdresser occasionally and, since Betty is sort of off-road with a cracked heat exchanger at the moment, Sheila and I were the designated transport. All I'll say for now is that I now have everything needed to get this engine running, and stay tuned after that for some innovative (and hopefully successful) bodywork surgery ![;)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/wink.png) Meanwhile, we got back to find an email suggesting that Matilda's engine saga (mainly the intransigent piston) has been amusing the staff at a certain magazine. I think it must have been the bit about setting fire to it....... edited to add: as for the engine, seeing as we're hoping Steve will be here this weekend to inspect her, expect the stops to be pulled out to have it fired up before he arrives ![;)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/wink.png)
|
|
33grinder
Likes DAFs
CHPD* sufferer (*Compulsive Heap Purchasing Disorder)
Posts: 2,905
|
Post by 33grinder on Feb 9, 2011 23:19:18 GMT
That's excellent news Joe, and nothing like a fixed date to focus the mind! ![;)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/wink.png) Judging by your rate of progress thus far I have every faith in you accomplishing this, with or without the Daf gods present! ;D
|
|
spunkymonkey
Likes DAFs
Currently waltzing Matilda
Posts: 3,482
|
Post by spunkymonkey on Feb 10, 2011 23:36:30 GMT
Can now confirm that we have two good, matched (within 1 gram of each other) pistons from the engine out of johnjenk's spares car ;D
Quite lucky to really seeing as both top rings had broken (one in half and the other in 3 pieces) but had stayed in their grooves and not damaged the lands at all - don't like to think what might have happened if we'd run the engine though!
So the next round of assembly and photos should be along shortly.......
|
|
spunkymonkey
Likes DAFs
Currently waltzing Matilda
Posts: 3,482
|
Post by spunkymonkey on Feb 11, 2011 21:37:56 GMT
There was some progress today, but a lot slower than I'd hoped because of a late start, constant interruptions and trying to remember how best to do things without a couple of specific Daf-suitable tools. Still, one piston, cylinder and head is (sort of) fitted and I finally got to play with my new hone ;D The first job was to hone the bores using my new toy: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/hone.jpg) These should never be used dry - there's a risk of scoring the bore with a dry hone because there's nothing to flush any debris out of it's way. Oil the bore well before use! When using one of these you need a nice, low speed, drill so I borrowed the landlord's cordless with variable speed because my single-speed mains one was just way too fast! ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/honing.jpg) Run the hone at a slow speed while working it in and out over the full length of the bore. The aim is to get a cross hatched pattern with the lines at somewhere between about 30 and 45 degrees to each other. You also want the lines to be an even weight in each direction, so aim for a steady speed down the bore and then the same speed back up. Don't let the hone travel too far out of he cylinder at either end because the stones will tilt and chamfer the corner if you do. This is something like an acceptable finish: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/bore.jpg) Once you're happy with the finish, test fit the rings by easing them into the top of the cylinder and pushing them down part way using an upside-down piston. That will ensure they're sitting square in the bores. Use a feeler gauge to measure the ring gaps as a (hopefully final) check that everything's ok: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/checkGap.jpg) The book for these engines specify a ring gap of between 12 and 24 thou - this one was a nice comfy 13 thou so well within spec. A too-small gap is potentially more serious than too big because excess gap will cause oil burning but not enough can cause the rings to close up as the engine warms and seize it solid! Before fitting the rings to the (used) piston it's important to clean out the piston grooves of old carbon build-up. The layer of carbon behind an old, worn, ring can be enough to cause a new ring to bottom-out in the groove which is not a nice thing to happen! You can get groove cleaning tools but, unless you're doing an awful lot of engines, a piece of broken piston ring is a perfectly good alternative. Run the edge round the groove as a scraper, being careful not to twist the ring (which can damage the groove edges) until you're not scraping out carbon any more: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/cleanGrooves.jpg) ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/carbon.jpg) With the grooves clean, check the ring side gaps in the grooves with feeler gauges: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/checkSideGap.jpg) The book for this says between 2.5 and 3.6 thou for the top ring and between 2 and 3 for the second. I'm not worried about the oil control ring because the set I'm fitting have multi-part oil rings with an expander strip but, if you're fitting single piece oil rings, the clearance should be between 1 and 2 thou. In this case, the top was 3 thou and the second was just under 2, so that's fine. Slight excess clearance here can pump oil past the rings, making the engine a little smoky, but isn't the end of the world given that the cure is a new piston (and we've been there enough lately!) Once you're happy fit the new rings to the piston. No photos of fitting them (it's a 2 handed job) but the two top rings on each piston will be marked with the word "top" on one side. make sure that "top" is facing the top of the piston! In this case, the top ring is "stepped" - it has a small step cut from it's outer edge which is designed to prevent it from hitting any wear ridge there may be at the top of the bore. If you're using stepped rings it's absolutely vital that the step is upwards - a ring hitting a ridge will shatter and probably destroy the piston and bore! ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/ringsFitted.jpg) ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/stepTop.jpg) When fitting rings aim to spread the gaps out around the piston so they're not all in line with each other. Once you're happy with the bore and the rings, oil the barrel well and drop the piston carefully into the top of it so it rests with the bottom ring against the top of the barrel. Fit a well oiled ring compressor around the piston so that it also sits against the top of the barrel and do it up tight enough to be sure the rings are pressed fully back into their grooves - there should be no gap at all between the compressor and the piston. Once it's done up, lift the piston back out of the barrel (with the compressor still on it) and make sure that the rings are fully compressed. Trying the next step with any part of the rings outside the piston will probably shatter them. Place the piston back in the barrel, making sure that the arrow on the top points towards what will be the front of the barrel once it's back on the engine: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/pistonFront.jpg) and firmly (but not like a loony) tap the piston with a wooden hammer handle (or similar) so that it slides out of the compressor and into the barrel: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/fitPiston.jpg) If it doesn't move with fairly light taps then stop and re-check that the rings are fully compressed. Once the piston fully enters the barrel the ring compressor will come away showing this: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/pistonFitted.jpg) You now need to continue tapping it down the bore: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/tapPistonDown.jpg) until the gudgeon pin hole is completely clear of the barrel base. Be careful not to go so far that the bottom ring comes out of the barrel or you'll have to start again from the top! ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/pinHole.jpg) Apply a light smear of sealing compound to the step at the base of the barrel and fit a new gasket: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/cylinderGasket.jpg) then apply another light smear of sealant to the face of the gasket. Now fit the circlip to the rear end of the gugeon pin hole and make sure it's fully seated in it's groove: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/fitFirstCirclip.jpg) Oil the gudgeon pin and the holes in the piston and fit the pin from the front until it's just sticking out inside. The idea is to leave enough room for the conrod to go in, but enough pin exposed to "feel" when the conrod small-end is lined up with it: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/partFittedPin.jpg) Oil the small end bush in the conrod, Double check that the arrow on the piston is pointing to the front and slide the barrel, with piston, into place on the engine. Find the small-end bush with the gudgeon pin and slide the pin through. This can be a little tricky because it's a very close fit so any misalignment will make it too tight to move but lots of oil and steady thumb pressure are the key. Once the pin has slid through the bush it will probably be too tight to slide all the way home into the other side of the piston. Autodata show the use of a specialised gudgeon pin press tool but a 3-leg puller and some creative rope-work will do just as well (also works for removing them in the first place!): ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/pushPinIn.jpg) Now don't forget to fit the second circlip: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/secondCirclip.jpg) Slide the barrel down and seat it against the block: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/barrelFitted.jpg) And start to fit the head - make sure it's the right one. Also fit the push-rod tubes, which should have been stretched slightly on their corrugated parts so that they can seal as they compress again: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/headAndTubes.jpg) Align the outer ends of the tubes with the holes in the head: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/alignTubes.jpg) and push the head on as far as it will go by hand pressure. Fit sealing rings to the two lower head studs: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/studSeal.jpg) and fit the pushrods through their tubes: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/fitPushrods.jpg) Now slide the rocker assembly into place as far as you can: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/fitRockers.jpg) Fit the 4 head nuts (without washers or the engine lifting bracked for now) and tighten them down, evenly and progressively, while guiding the pushrods into the cups on the rocker arms: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/rockerAndPushrod.jpg) As you do this, keep an eye on the gap between the head and the barrel to be sure you're pulling them down straight: ![](http://www.dafmobile.ournet.org.uk/pics/matilda/engine/tightenEvenly.jpg) Next, get a text through from home and decide that you've had enough for the day. Go home and eat......
|
|
|
Post by dafdaffer on Feb 11, 2011 23:03:13 GMT
great report SM....only thing that gets me is fitting the rings to the piston, do you fit them from top and bottom then wind them on? i tried one a broke a good ring on my honda 90 ![:o](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/shocked.png)
|
|