"Percy" the 1976 Volvo 66

[johnsaab]

Hello all.
I'm John and my Girlfriend is Sarah.
I have several classics, most are SAAB V4's but I also own a 1966 Volvo Amazon and a Hillman Avenger. The Avenger is a long term project and Sarah hates driving the SAABs because of the column change so we went hunting for something old for Sarah to drive.
Sarah wanted a classic Toyota but they were either rotten or over priced.
A few weeks passed and we couldn't really find anything but a brown Volvo 66 caught her attention..it was 16 miles away, had MOT and the price looked OK so without even seeing it I made an offer..the owner said "yes".
Some of you already know the car as there have been a few threads on the forum about the car.
The car drive OK but has a few issues. Brakes are all or nothing. The gear selection is hit and miss (the connecting rod from the gear lever to rear seems to have lost it's rear bush) there are a few body issues and several parts missing..passengers side mirror, chrome ring around spot light, chrome strip for sill and a seat adjusting "knob".
Apart from the issues we are really pleased with the car and all going well we will take it on a 6 hr trip to Norfolk next weekend..off to my mates "Super Dooper 70's car show.. www.facebook.com/SuperDooper70sDay
I'm sure I will be back with a few questions and will keep posting as we get on with the work.
I will add pictures when I can..I think because i'm a new member i'm not allowed to post pics yet?

[johnsaab]

Oh..I forgot to mention..the name Percy has nothing to do with me..Sarah names all of her cars and that's her name for this car.
Attachment Deleted

[johnsaab]

Todays jobs..adjusted the handbrake..it was a LONG way off. With the cable tightened to the last thread (i'm guessing I will need a new cable in the future)the handbrake holds well but there is still a lot of pedal travel before they bite..the shoes are almost new and the wheel cylinders are newish and working..not sure if the automatic adjusters are working. I will have a look at the front end tomorrow.
The gear linkage was flapping around at the rear so i took it apart..it's either very worn at the rear end of the selector rod or there is a bush missing. I made a nylon bush but it would be interesting to find what should be there.
Jobs still to do..replace all the CV boots..find the play in the steering..replace the shock absorbers.

[33grinder]

Welcome John.

Well done on your purchase and defecting to the world of DAFs. The rack can be 'tightened' by loosening the bolts on the rack cage (should be wire locked but unlikely) and tapping the adjuster round, then re tightening.

If that doesn't cure it then the play is most likely the nylon bushes. You would need to remove the adjuster plate from the steering rack and remove the metal plates. That will then enable you to withdraw the pinion having disconnected it from the column (you might need to loosen the column at the top to help swing it out of the way. I believe you can get replacement bushes from the Netherlands, I was lucky as Joe Horner reamed me a set on his lathe. If you know the dimensions and have access to the tools then it's an option. Then repack the pinion shaft with fresh grease, and reinsert/rebuild the steering cage. Trickiest bit is getting the pinion in at the right angle to get the steering straight...bit of trial and error. Much, much easier than removing the rack.

I have done this job on my own 66 and so long as you have the replacement bushes to hand you should be able to do it within a couple of hours.

[johnsaab]

I found a little time to get a bit of spanner work in today.
Adjusting the handbrake has made a huge difference to the cars braking but the hand brake is still weak. The drums look tiered and the shoes look like they are starting to craze.
Fitting the bush in the selector rod has transformed the gear selection.
The front calipers look good, the discs are OK but need to be used as they have a little pitting.
My biggest issue is starting to move off and when you stop..the car feels like the brakes are grabbing (but they are fine)...pulling away involves bringing the revs up higher than expected and then it launches in fits and starts until you are up to 5-10mph..beyond that it drives superb, moves up to higher speeds well and drives smooth...slowing down is fine until you are almost at a halt and then it kangaroos..makes no difference if you are simply dropping down on the throttle or braking.
I have very limited experience of the Variomatic but I know that something is wrong with belt system..new-ish belts, the cones look fine..a little oil on the box but the belts are dry...any comments on possible causes would be more than welcome..we have a very long drive in 4 days and i'm hoping I can solve it before Sarah has to drive it for 6 hrs there and 6 hrs back.

[Nick the man with a daf....]

sticking clutch plate would be my guess, unlike the air cooled dafs that have a centrifugal clutch shoes the 66 has a proper pressure plate that is operated by magic, the drag at slow speeds is normal, theres a fair bit of resistance in the belts, jerkiness though isnt normal, is the car show anything to do with Dave TRoughton as that sounds like something he would dream up !!

[johnsaab]

Dave is going..in the Sunbeam Rapier he bought off me a few months back.
"Comrade" Paul is the creator of the show..and i;m told there will be 3 other DAF's there.

[johnsaab]

I think the carb needs a little looking at judging by the plugs..

[Nick the man with a daf....]

ive seen this before in the humber, its using cheap additives to replace the lead and in the wrong quantities, plug nose colour also indicates shes been running lean, so maybe check the vac hoses (including those UNDER the car on both drive pulleys at the front) for any leaks

[johnsaab]

Running on unleaded as it's had a UL head fitted. As you say Nick the plug colour indicates it's been running lean.
I have found some of the vac hoses are loose..not off or split but they could be a better fit.
Hopefully I will get a bit more time on it today..the "big trip" is tomorrow so I have plenty to be getting on with.

[swissdave]

That show looks fun, I'd like to attend but the Mrs wont wear two shows in two weekends.
It'd be good to see the two Volvos side by side at a show, we must try to organise it.

[Nick the man with a daf....]

for what its worth John, I regularly do weekends away in my daf (air-cooled 850 though) and will cover 500-600 miles in the weekend, and it never misses a beat, would get in it tomorrow and drive ANYWHERE if I could afford the fuel

[johnsaab]

Not a great start to the day. Went to move the car and tried to select "D"..it resisted so I switched it off..turned it on and tried again, as the lever was pulled to "D" the top popped off the gear lever..bits everywhere. I managed to get it all back together and it worked fine but the cap doesn't feel secure..out with the insulating tape..that's going to please her as it's a baking hot day...the suggestion she wears driving gloves was met with silence.

[mattsdafs]

This looks a good show,might have to add to the number of Dafs there tomorrow,anyone else attending?

[Nick the man with a daf....]

3 1/2 hr drive for me

[Richard DAF Webmeister]

I've noticed that the gear selector lever on the V66 is decidedly delicate. I think the combination of plastic, the thumb/push button along with the intricate microswitch and other electrical gubbins, spells potential problems.

I've often wondered whether it is possible or indeed worth it, to "de-Volvoise" the selector mechanism and turn it back into a proper DAF forward to go forward, back to go back lever. Somehow, I suspect not (without an awful lot of other work)

Something is not quite right with mine, because unlike Volvo's design mod intended, I can start the engine even when the lever is in R or D. Almost proper DAF-like!

[johnsaab]

I fixed everything back together and I couldn't select D or R...took the cap off and dissconecded the wire and it selects D and R great..the driving away is much smoother and it drives fine until you slam the brakes on..it winds down, there is a big THUNK and it stalls.
My homework for tonight is to read the Haynes book of lies and get an idea of what it all does. I have a feeling it's a combination of clutch needs shimming and everything being set up properly. I also have a feeling that the servo pulling air from the same place as the change down system may be affecting the way it works. Once off it drives well but it's the stopping that need further work.

[Nick the man with a daf....]

John, when you put foot on brake it should also be activating the valve under the bonnet that is also your "hill descent" (green thing that lights up) just a simple test but sat with ignition on but not running turn ON the switch, it should light up green, now put foot on brake the lit switch should go out until you release the brake, this simply confirms that it is working correctly,
I would agree it sounds like the clutch needs some work as it should release long before she stalls

[johnsaab]

Cheers Nick..the switch makes no difference in any position..no light so I will chase the power..that might be the starting point on Saturday morning.

[johnsaab]

It's been a while!
Percy was used a few times towards the end of 2014 and then the tax/MOT run out. With something like 15 other "projects" keeping me occupied i'm afraid he was pushed into the "naughty corner" after the hand brake failed.
Now it's next on the list and i'm going through it with new spirit...a few days after "he" turned 40 years old.
Jobs done over the last week.
Rear CV joints stripped, cleaned and new boots.
Drive train dropped.
Fuel pipe replaced.
Brake pipes replaced with copper.
New rear wheel cylinders, handbrake cables, brake shoes, flexi hose.
Welding in the N/S rear arch (rear spring hanger area)
Underseald at rear.
Drive train has been overhauled in the past but had a leak..turned out to be the fill plug needed tightening...re-fitted
New exhaust fitted..the home made effort was blowing like a piper.
Jobs to do...carb rebuild, front shock gaiters to fit, overhaul calipers and brake master. Re grease steering.
The plan is to have it ready for a show in 9 days time..and I also have another car that needs about the same amount of work..i'm taking that and Sarah will take the 66...if they are ready.

[johnsaab]

The list of work needed has come close to the end. MOT day tomorrow.I will do a full run down of what has been done later...it's been a challenge but I now have working brakes, it runs well, doesn't stall on braking like before. The cooling system bodges have been binned (but it still need further work.

[johnsaab]

MOT PASS!!! failed yesterday on a sill full of filler so worked into the night to sort it.
Now I need to look into why it sometimes refuses to go into R or D...just grates. Switch off and push the lever all the way forward and back..into N then it works..guessing it's a sticky relay or contact switch.

[Richard DAF Webmeister]

Excellent!

Well done.

[steviebeez]

Top Form, always a good feeling to pass the Mot after so much work, happy belting!

[swissdave]

Great news! With regards to your gear shift problem, have a look at your clutch servo and check that it is operating when you press the button on the gear lever.

[johnsaab]

There seems to be a ignition switch issue that is connected to the gear selection issue. Sometimes when the ignition is switched on the dash lights come on..the car starts and you can select gears. Occasionally when you turn the key the dash lights don't come on but the car still starts and thats when the issue occurs. 1st job tomorrow is to have a look at that..the ignition is stiff (lack of use) so thats my next move.
Sarah (it's her car) took it out for a drive and loves it.
The new sill arrived from dafhobby today and i'm not impressed..very thin gauge steel (0.65), bent and the profile isn't great. The door aperture isn't wide enough and it could have done with proper front end. With postage it works out quite expensive for such a poor panel.

[andrejuan]

The Dafhobby sills are a good starting point, not perfect but a decent job can still be done with more than a bit of fiddling.

I was lucky to find some genuine Volvo sills and wings for my 66, an absolute joy to work with.

[johnsaab]

May 20, 2016 17:57:55 GMT andrejuan said:

The Dafhobby sills are a good starting point, not perfect but a decent job can still be done with more than a bit of fiddling.

I was lucky to find some genuine Volvo sills and wings for my 66, an absolute joy to work with.

I'm also working on my 1966 Volvo 121. The "aftermarket" panels are superb. The floor 1/4 panels are pressed from 0.95 steel, are a perfect fit and cost about the same as this sill (I make most of my own panels but when they are "off the shelf" it's usually easier to take that option).
I'm tempted to use this as a template and make my own sill.

[johnsaab]

This thing is doing my head in. I took the gear lever out and cleaned all of the contacts (it was filthy). Re installed the earth cable into the gear lever top...and it won't start...dead on the key. Disconnect the gear lever earth and it starts first time. Whats that all about??
Another issue...the key has been stiff and occasonaly the dash lights don't come on when you are starting the car so I removed the ignition barrel, cleaned it up. The electric switch at the base was dirty so that was also cleaned. This made no difference to the dash light issue...it's not the end of teh world but it isn't right and that bugs me.
The show we are preparing for tomorrow is looking like it may be wash out. Ho hum!

[johnsaab]

Wasn't expecting that...Percy went and won "peoples choice...most admired Volvo of the show" at Swedish Day 2016
Suddenly all of the hard work seems worth while.