DAF 33 Van project

[starider]

Hi,
After my posts reference sale of Daf Van by Little Belter and my subsequent purchase,I need to begin a thread with the purpose of keeping everyone up to date with progress.
The first thing I have done is to remove the rear windows ready to re-panel it back to a van.  I was given a factory/dealer Parts Catalogue with the van and looking at the VIN Plate details which confirmed[after checking the one on the van] that as I suspected it is a 3305 the designation number for a van[the Combi is a 3306].
I have put it on the 4 poster and intend to get it running properly,sort out the seized brakes,road test and then give it time to dry out before I remove all the engine,suspension and transmission parts for cleaning,inspection and rebuilding before sorting out the bodywork.
It will take sometime as I have the small holding, animals,several tractors and some forestry to sort out[plus clearing space to put the van to work on!!].I'm sure there must be others of you who have access to a factory parts catalogue but if not drop me a PM and I will gladly look up anything/information required............starider

[starider]

Hi, The van has very odd rear lamps,so back to the Parts catalogue,and the parts picture shows that one of them is correct[although faded].A short search on ebay found some new lights complete,which turned out to be classic Britax and readily available[one box ticked]......starider

[starider]

Hi, just purchased from the club stock of spares a set of drive belts,contact breakers,condenser and ignition coil.The previous owner had fitted an alternator which meant the fuel pump had to be removed,blanked off and an electric pump[from a mini] fitted.As is usual with SU pumps,lack of use tends to render them temperamental,luckily I have a new one in stock, so once the ignition is replaced and the pump fitted I will be able to have it running.
If anyone is looking for a 33 boot lid I have one[in maroon] at a sensible price.I will also have a bonnet once I've decided which one to use. PM if interested..................starider

[starider]

Hi, sorting out the seized brakes,have purchased the tool for fitting the wheel cylinder retaining clip.What a pain even with the tool,a tip, I found it so much easier taking off the back plate and fitting the new cylinders on the bench......starider

[andrew]

Jan 10, 2020 17:05:25 GMT starider said:

Hi, sorting out the seized brakes,have purchased the tool for fitting the wheel cylinder retaining clip.What a pain even with the tool,a tip, I found it so much easier taking off the back plate and fitting the new cylinders on the bench......starider

I've used one of those tools and they're a real pain in the neck! We used to use them on Minis and as Daf brakes are identical to old Mini brakes I can imagine the grief you're going through. As you're gong to bleed the system when it's all back together you might as well take the back plate off & ensure the cylinder's fitted properly BEFORE bolting the plate to the axle stub. Your method sounds a more reliable one anyway!

[starider]

Hi Andrew,Like yourself we used to fit these clips to DAFs,Minis and a whole raft of vehicles back in the 60s and 70s.I tried using the tool whilst groping around behind the backplate while it was on the van,the clip went on OK, but because of the "stretch" on the clip it finished up loose and I wasn't satisfied,so off it came[very easily].We used to fit these clips without a tool way back when, so once on the bench I'll have a go without the tool.Not really had a good look but may be able to fit the new shoes and springs as well and fit as a unit back onto the strut.Will report back.................Starider

[starider]

Hi,looked at the fitting tool and thought the taper on the part of the tool which the clip slides up, seemed too sharp an angle,so looked on line again and found another at half the price with a shallow angle,this works perfectly.So it's not always the expensive "stuff" that's the best.
One front brake assembly finished,just waiting for the new back plate Allen cap screws,nuts and washers to arrive.
Have fitted and wired in the new rear lights so that once the braking is sorted, I can road test for mechanical problems before removing the engine for a clutch check and to paint the engine compartment.
I realise I have promised pics.but I do need lessons from the "Boss".Will do soon as..............starider

[andrew]

Is this a 6 or 12 volt van and, if it's a 6 volt one, will you be converting it to 12 volts?

[starider]

Hi, Luckily it's been converted,plus an alternator.Had it running today nice quiet engine,needs tuning, carb needs cleaning and timing etc,setting properly.
Been stripping out the carpeting and lining material which has been fitted, before beginning to fill in the panels, now the glass has been removed.
A bit previous, but have had the Daf Dark Blue paint delivered today,early I know but my prefered motor factor spent a lot of time sorting colour codes etc.They have one of the best paint mixing services in the South West.
Finished the front brakes,just the rears then a road test before taking out the engine.
This model has the removable floor section over the transmission,So I am considering making a clear plastic/perspex cover once finished.
Exhaust on the way from Danny...............starider

[starider]

Hi,I am putting feelers out for some spares:- I need the rear spring rubber pads, where the spring sits on the swing arm and the 12 volt starter could do with replacing.PM me please if you can help.Many thanks.......starider

[gromsound]

<<So I am considering making a clear plastic/perspex cover >>
sure? when a belt breaks the smash to the floor is very very hard. will probably scatter the perspex and since there is no rear seat to cover it that might not be very safe... i would advise at least 1 cm polycarbonate as used for screening off metal testing machines at my work (to catch free flying chips).

[bobdisk]

My 33 had a new exhaust with it, It was cut in half, I believe for ease of transport from Holland, and a sleeve to join the two parts supplied. It was badly welded (another present from previous owner!) leavng leaks. Do please do a better job than this-

[starider]

Hi, Sure looks like a mess,the exhaust received from Danny is excellent,believe me I know,I have seen some horrors/bodges,when working on 33/44s I would always refuse doing any repairs to exhausts.My own cars always had Redex added to petrol,it usually removed the necessity for major decokes and very lightly coated the inside of the exhaust system, prolonging the life. Redex is also useful for freeing off piston rings[an egg cupful in each cylinder,and leave standing for a week or so].It's a bit smokey when re-started, but usually does the job.Also good if a vehicle[petrol],is to be left for any length of time a dose of the afor mentioned will keep the upper end of the engine free.

Ref. the floor section, obviously I have enough experience of belts breaking to realise that the clear material needs to be man enough for the "job".I wasn't being specific when I mentioned "plastic/Perspex".There are many high impact/shatterproof plastics around which when needed will be investigated...........starider
.

[bobdisk]

Did you get the pipe in one piece, or was it in 2 sections?

[starider]

Hi,
it came in two pieces,Danny explained it is too long for shipping and presumably would incur extra shipping costs.There is no joining sleeve,both halves slide together in the centre perfectly.The problem with long lengths of exhaust has always been the chance of damage in transit.
I wouldn't hesitate to order again from Daf hobby................starider

[starider]

Hi, brakes sorted, carb. stripped and cleaned, ignition parts replaced.Engine tuned and carb adjusted.12volt starter in the post.Tomorrow,if weather OK a road test to check for any mechanical problems.If OK will begin the body work. Will also begin photographic record............starider

[starider]

Hi, the road test went quite well, the first problem is the clutch, which will need attention,the van struggled up the slope from the farmyard, but the clutch was slightly better once warm.After a couple of miles at a junction the engine cut out and after a few minutes found the new contacts had closed.Once mobile again and after a couple of hundred yards the dodgy looking generator belt parted.
Matt[Essex Dafs] has supplied me with a good 12 volt starter, so when I've finished re-panelling the sides [where the non-factory fitted windows have been removed],it's out with the engine and look at the clutch, fit the 12 volt starter,reset valves etc. while it's on the bench.Have started taking pics.
Does anyone know if there was/is an electronic ignition conversion for 33/44/46??................starider

[newwy66]

would love to see some photo's of your project Starider

[starider]

Hi,

Work progressing well despite helping to put central heating in our holiday cottage,fitting carpets,boxing in pipework etc.etc.The braking system is replaced,both rear window openings have been panelled in and are ready for rubbing down and priming[It looks like a van again].
I am in the process of removing the fuel tank[it's prefect and like new on the inside,what a relief!!] to allow me to fabricate and weld in a new rear cross member.Once the tank is refitted, the engine will be removed and then there will be a 2 day clear up in the barn to make room for the van for body work.Still a lot to do, but all will be photographed for future publications.
We still haven't got round to putting some pictures on these pages,but will still keep dropping hints to the"Boss".I'm useless to all but simple computer operations...........starider

[starider]

The van arrives home................

[starider]

PS Hope no one thinks I towed without strapping down the van.Used all the correct straps etc.Note the rear lamps! the nearside is the original although faded.Already located[and fitted] new lamp assemblies............starider

[starider]

Removed the fuel tank yesterday, bit of a pig to remove,luckily my friend who had a screen fitting business was around to help.I can now fabricate a new rear cross member and weld it in.
If any of you have removed a 33 tank you will know it is held in with windscreen "s" type screen rubber. Re-fitted with cord,he informed me[so he's got the job!]............starider

[andrew]

Feb 20, 2020 11:00:44 GMT starider said:

Removed the fuel tank yesterday, bit of a pig to remove,luckily my friend who had a screen fitting business was around to help.I can now fabricate a new rear cross member and weld it in.
If any of you have removed a 33 tank you will know it is held in with windscreen "s" type screen rubber. Re-fitted with cord,he informed me[so he's got the job!]............starider

I changed the tank in my 33 car; quite an event and it involved considerable effort. By the way, the 33 van didn't have a petrol gauge (well, mine didn't!) so the tank will have a sensor in the side, to indicate when gallon or so is left. While the tank is out, have you thought of fitting one with a float, allowing gauge to be fitted?

[starider]

Hi Andrew,.None of the vans we sold from Benstead & Pidcock caused any problems to the owners with not having a fuel gauge.The vans had the same spec.as the Confort[very basic]..Before I removed the tank I drained it,the orange light came on OK, slowly put in a gallon,at just under the light began to dim and at just over the light went out.I always keep my vehicles well topped up, as I believe the less air space in a tank the less chance of corrosion.
The inside of the van tank is absolutely rust and debris free.The only corrosion is on the front to rear fuel pipe which I am replacing.Took a while to locate some 6mm Cupro nickel pipe[should arrive Mon. or Tues.]. I'm about to go into the workshop,clean the outside,apply rust converter,then apply a good coat of self etching primer,then either Hammerite or tractor black..................starider

[starider]

Hi, the van is progressing quite well,still trying to fit it in with all my other jobs.Have fabricated one side of the rear cross member and fitted it in.Tomorrow I hope to fabricate the other side, fit it and then weld them both in.Both the areas behind the rear wheels need sections welding in once the filler has been removed. Once those areas are sorted I need to replace the front to rear fuel pipe,re-fit the fuel tank[resplendent in two coats of tractor black],then it's out with the engine. The next big job is to clear space to put the van in the centre of the barn for the body work to be prepared for spraying...............starider

[starider]

Hi, work is progressing well,have almost finished the welding needed on the bodywork,just the top rear of the o/side front wing,to cut out the rust and through the hole left, fabricate and weld in the "A" post re-enforcer before making and welding in the patch. Then it's out with the engine to check the clutch and paint the engine bay before preparation for a re-spray.Sounds easy, but still a huge amount to do.I won't be posting many pics. as I've agreed with Richard to let him have all the pictures when finished so that it can all be published in the magazine..............starider

[swissdave]

That sounds like great progress. Good luck with the ongoing project, great to see such a rare vehicle being brought back to life.
I agree with the magazine first approach as I employ it myself, then forum second and social media last. In order of their importance obviously.😷

[starider]

Hi swissdave, I agree with with your comments re-order of publication, but for myself social media is a no no!. Tony[starider]

[starider]

Hooray! just managed to re-fit the tank and it only took about 20 minutes. My mate couldn't be around so I managed myself.I fed some cord around the slot in the rubber and after some thought, used WD 40 as a lubricant[Fairy Liquid is corrosive],The tank slid in easily and I started to pull the cord which initially popped the rubber over the tank lip, when I reached the first tight corner the extra force needed began to pull the cord out of the slot on the next bend/corner,so I pulled the cord right out and with a blunt screwdriver gradually worked round flipping the rubber lip over the tank rim without any problem.One more job done.Next spray on under seal on the newly welded areas and make and fit a new front to rear fuel pipe.
Took the drivers door off!! what a state the bottom is.Under the filler the door skin is badly corroded and the door bottom is non existent,so it's out with the disc cutter,make up a new panel get the joggler out and Mig the panel onto the skin, avoiding heat distortion,then re-make the door bottom and weld that in.At least I can do the work on the bench. At least with isolation I have plenty of time!! PS Had a thought,if I make the new bottom edge deeper[further up the door], I can spot weld.....starider

[starider]

Phew!! After fitting the tank the next problem was replacing the front to rear petrol pipe.Having sourced several metres of 6mm Cupro Nickel pipe the next problem was bending the new pipe to the old.Having first put the tank connector on one end and swaging the pipe end,it very soon became obvious that it was like wrestling an Octopus,when suddenly the light bulb moment happened when I realised the solution was small cable ties.It was then quite simple to bend to shape approx. 8" to 10",then cable tie the two pipes together,then bend the next section to shape,cable tie,then the next section and so on:-A bit fiddly[small cable ties] but took around half an hour cut off the cable ties.Fed the whole length from the back over and round the transmission,then left it to hang whilst I connected the end loosely into the tank,then from the tank clipped the new pipe into the body clips working towards the front[15 mins].Tightened the tank union,connected the tank earth and sensor wiring,re-fitted the large filler pipe and connected to the pump,put in about half a gallon, checked orange light was on and fired up the engine. No petrol leaks anywhere. Job done.....starider