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Post by starider on Mar 30, 2020 19:48:11 GMT
Hi, took the engine out this afternoon,so will begin the strip down to look at the clutch,,hadn't removed an engine for many years,but it all came back and even remembered to disconnect the short earth cable underneath the clutch. I hope I've still got enough strength to lift the engine on the bench,for apart from the clutch,I need to give it a good clean,repaint the heater cowls, get the wife to polish the rocker covers,set the valve clearances,replace the broken generator belt and fit a 12volt starter motor.Whilst the engine is out,I'll remove the relevant parts to allow me to paint the engine compartment.............starider
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Post by starider on Apr 1, 2020 13:02:05 GMT
Hi, had a "light bulb" moment and used the mini digger to lift the engine onto the bench. Looked at the clutch through the holes in the drum,segments look OK, but have decided to fit new parts. I've found in the past that cars that haven't been used for years and stored in a damp atmosphere,have problems with the friction material separating from the metal shoes[plus I've never refitted a worn clutch to any engine].I suspect that as the metal shoes rust the developing rust/corrosion action breaks up the adhesive........starider
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banda
Likes DAFs
Posts: 59
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Post by banda on Apr 5, 2020 7:14:50 GMT
I wish I had had a mini digger starider but the good news is that the engine for my 66 has now been rebuilt. Apart from sourcing and supplying all the parts....pistons, rings, liners, gaskets, filters etc.the only part I played was lapping in the valves.
The bad news is that as we are now locked down here in France I have to wait for the big day as the car is here at home and the block about 50kms away at the mechanics.
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Post by starider on Apr 8, 2020 21:30:39 GMT
Hi, More work done today,spent most of the day painting the engine compartment,I didn't fancy removing the wiring loom,so brush painted which took hours with several sizes of paint brush and must admit it all looks good.With the engine on the bench I've pulled off the clutch housing, both clutch segments and drum are servicable but knowing the van has stood for years,I don't trust that the linings won't lift off so I'm waiting for the new segments to arrive. I've repainted the tin work around the engine. Having a slight problem with finding a alternator belt as the 33 belt doesn't fit[too short].Measured the outside length needed and ordered online.
It's great having the engine out as it's then so easy to adjust valve clearances accurately.As soon as the new rocker cover "O" rings arrive,I can refit the now highly polished rocker covers.
Hopefully Matt at Essex Dafs will be able to find time to sort a couple of good doors and the bits I've ordered,as it's nearly time for the body work[my least favourite part of any restoration].I have realised I probably have no chance at the present time to get the wheels to my powder coater,so will probably get my mate locally to bead blast them,under coat and spray silver for now.....starider
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Post by starider on Apr 13, 2020 10:04:58 GMT
Hi, hoping some of the spares I have ordered arrive this week,the engine is sitting on the bench waiting for a clutch and drum plus generator belt,once fitted the engine can go back in with new exhaust. Talking to our postman on Saturday who said they hadn't sorted any letters because they had so many parcels they had to clear the sorting office to make room.He said they were busier than any time last Christmas!!!...starider
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Post by starider on Apr 18, 2020 10:06:37 GMT
Hi,work on the van has ground to a halt, waiting on several couriers for key parts.I know couriers are having problems with deliveries due to the huge increase in online shopping, many reporting being busier than at Christmas, also many delivery drivers being off work.
Still,plenty of other jobs to keep us busy.......starider
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Post by starider on Apr 22, 2020 18:05:39 GMT
Hi, clutch arrived yesterday,all fitted today.Next problem is that an alternator had been fitted by the previous owner and when the drive belt broke on road test,it broke into several pieces, so finding the size was difficult as the standard 33 belt was far too short.Used the string round the pulleys method still produced the wrong belt.An email to Bearing Shop UK[Ashford,Kent],prompted an email with how to measure,I supplied them with the measurements they asked for,with a phone call and within a few seconds told me which belt I needed and should be with me as and when the post office have time to deliver.
I thought this was excellent service as they are working from home.If anyone wants the measurements required before they contact Bearing Shop UK.drop me a PM.........starider
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Post by swissdave on Apr 22, 2020 18:38:12 GMT
How did they suggest you measure the length for the fan belt? I've just ordered a fan belt based on a measurement taken from a string but it was far too short when it turned up, that was a 925mm, I've just ordered a 975 to see if that's any good.
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Post by starider on Apr 22, 2020 23:25:54 GMT
Hi, they asked for the outside diameter of the main pulley,the outside diameter of the generator pulley and the distance between the centres of the pulleys.The guy I spoke to said the string method doesn't work it always leaves the belt issued too short.I suggest you give them a ring,they have access to hundreds of belts etc.....starider
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Post by swissdave on Apr 23, 2020 10:51:35 GMT
Ahh ok, thanks for that. If the other one I've ordered doesn't fit I will certainly give them a call.
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Post by andrejuan on Apr 23, 2020 17:40:15 GMT
The string method is dubious as the string sits much deeper in the pulleys.
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andrew
Likes DAFs
Posts: 1,101
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Post by andrew on Apr 28, 2020 13:38:13 GMT
In view of the paucity of jobs left to do on my 33, I popped round to my lock-up this morning & measured the diameter of the main pulley on one of the 33 engines I have. My Vernier only measure in inches (hence why it was thrown away!) but the internal diameter (the furthest into the "V" I could place the jaws of the Verniier) was 4.225 inches. Using 2.54 as the concession factor, this gives 10.73 cm. The pulley on one of my dynamos measures 2.45 inches, or 6.223 cm. I hope this helps in deciding which belt to buy!
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Post by starider on Apr 29, 2020 19:50:07 GMT
Hi, got the engine back in today.all running well[and quietly thanks to the new exhaust].Just need to make a new bracket for the rear exhaust mounting as when I welded in the new rear cross member I could not position the bracket as the other had rotted away.If it's not raining tomorrow I'll give it a quick 100 yards dash[no front panel,doors or bonnet]. I've decided to do as much body work and spraying as I can, but awaiting the time when I can get delivery of the pair of good doors.
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Post by starider on Apr 30, 2020 18:39:03 GMT
Hi, chickened out of running the van down our road,very little traffic but would have been just my luck! We have quite a long "roadway" to one of our fields so ran up and down 1/2 dozen times.Everything works fine and found the electric vacuum valve isn't working, so need to check that out.Next jobs are to spray underseal and then fit the new drive belts.
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Post by starider on May 2, 2020 12:12:31 GMT
Hi, undersealed and new drive belts fitted another "road" test,engine cut out and found fuel pump was sucking air,a new length of rubber pipe cured the problem. Just the belt covers and under tray to fit, then bodywork!!!!**!!
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Post by starider on May 6, 2020 20:23:59 GMT
Hi,almost finished welding in new metal in place of the large areas of filler,mainly the bottoms of both front wings[front and rear corners], the bottom of N/Side hinge panel and the top rear of O/Side wing.I'm going to apply filler over the welded areas,then have a week or so away from the van to get our polytunnel cleared and planted up with veg.I intend to finish the bodywork then prep,respray what I can until I can get the good doors delivered.
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Post by starider on May 12, 2020 23:30:09 GMT
Removed the tyres today and wheels were collected this evening for bead blasting,priming and spraying in silver.As soon as they are returned our local tyre company manager will pick them up on his way to work and return them in the evening with new tryes and balanced.I was going to have the wheels powder coated, but the powder coaters are a fair way away and not too sure how soon they could do them,so for now,painted.
Once the wheels are fitted I'll cover the van for several weeks, while more work is done around the farm.
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andrew
Likes DAFs
Posts: 1,101
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Post by andrew on May 13, 2020 6:58:23 GMT
Congratulations on finding a tyre balancing establishments that can balance 3 stud wheels with no centre opening! I've also tracked one down, together with a "mature" member their staff who can operate the machine!
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Post by starider on May 13, 2020 9:18:29 GMT
I've used this local tyre company for almost 20yrs.I buy all my tyres from them for my bikes, ATV, tractors and cars.They have always repaid my loyalty with excellent service,skill and special pricing. When my tractors have needed new tyres fitted, they fit them on site FOC. Yes there are cheaper tyres on line etc.but they still have to be fitted.They have all the latest equipment, but still retain bits of equipment from the past so that they can,for example balance wheels with no centres.
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Post by starider on May 14, 2020 19:32:52 GMT
Forgot to ring for a collection of the wheels for new tyres,too busy building a raised base for a new bunded heating oil tank!
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Post by bobdisk on May 15, 2020 5:15:33 GMT
Hooray! just managed to re-fit the tank and it only took about 20 minutes. My mate couldn't be around so I managed myself.I fed some cord around the slot in the rubber and after some thought, used WD 40 as a lubricant[Fairy Liquid is corrosive],The tank slid in easily and I started to pull the cord which initially popped the rubber over the tank lip, when I reached the first tight corner the extra force needed began to pull the cord out of the slot on the next bend/corner,so I pulled the cord right out and with a blunt screwdriver gradually worked round flipping the rubber lip over the tank rim without any problem.One more job done.Next spray on under seal on the newly welded areas and make and fit a new front to rear fuel pipe. What is the connection at the tank? If its a new one, where did you get it? I dont have one, and cant find what it is. Andrews pic makes it look like a big brake connection, of 11mm. There is already a new copper fuel pipe, but no connections at either end. The front is no problem, a rubber pipe to the fuel filter, but I am having a problem at the tank. An alternative to the correct one is to drill it out, and tap in a new thread for a connection I do have, but I dont want to do that. I have to fit the tank when the connection is sorted. |
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Post by starider on May 15, 2020 9:32:23 GMT
Hi,the problem is that DAF used a mixture of Imperial sizes and Metric. I really can't remember the thread size or thread form[could be BSP]on the tank connectors. I just used the one that was on the van. The problem is that it can't really be drilled and re-threaded beccause the pipe end needs to be flared[like a brake pipe end] so that when the threaded end is tightened the flare forms a seal on the seating in the tank. When I measured the original pipe O/D it was a 1/4" and the spanner to undo the connection was A/F. I suggest you contact Essex DAFs and see if they have an old tank and let you have the tank/petrol pipe connector.
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Post by starider on May 25, 2020 21:06:24 GMT
Done a little more to the van,the new tyres and re-furbished wheels fitted and looking good,still loads to do around the farm so have slowed working on the van, still messing around with the alternator see "any suggestions"......starider
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Post by starider on Jun 4, 2020 19:21:38 GMT
At last I've sorted the alternator,it took some time as it's critical where the unit is mounted,too far in one place and the belt rubs on the oil cooler pipes, the pulleys must align and the adjuster must clear the distributer. I spent hours tacking together brackets then grinding the welds when it didn't work out, but eventually today I got the bracket spot on and it all works fine.Just need a final check and refit the cooling fan and grill.Then it's back to re-furbishing my farm trailer,fit a new diesel lift pump on the Fordson Major and fit those rear lamps I've had kicking around for 10 years.Got to drive the DAF off the lift as the wife's Connect van needs a new right hand drive shaft! It's always flat out here.
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Post by bobdisk on Jun 5, 2020 4:47:18 GMT
Hi,the problem is that DAF used a mixture of Imperial sizes and Metric. I really can't remember the thread size or thread form[could be BSP]on the tank connectors. I just used the one that was on the van. The problem is that it can't really be drilled and re-threaded beccause the pipe end needs to be flared[like a brake pipe end] so that when the threaded end is tightened the flare forms a seal on the seating in the tank. When I measured the original pipe O/D it was a 1/4" and the spanner to undo the connection was A/F. I suggest you contact Essex DAFs and see if they have an old tank and let you have the tank/petrol pipe connector. Found the tank connection! It is 7/16 UNF, and 1/2 AF spanner fits the fitting. . Automec, who do custom brake pipe parts and fittings did a length of 1/4 inch copper pipe with a flare on one end to fit the tank. The other end connected to the pipe from the front with a short length of rubber petrol pipe. |
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Post by starider on Jun 25, 2020 8:45:17 GMT
Van on hold at the moment,far too much to do around the farm,but as soon as the weather changes I'll be back on it. Next job is to fit sound deadening material to floor and rear inner panels[before lining rear with ply].Then it's flat out[apologies for the pun] on the body work.
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Post by starider on Jul 3, 2020 18:49:27 GMT
Finished fitting the insulation,the rubber mats and the seats. Came up with an idea when fitting the seats,instead of refitting using 10mm nuts, I used wing nuts,saves having to look for a 10mm spanner every time.
The fuse holder for the electric petrol pump I found on-line, super design, you cut the cable in a suitable location, feed each end into the ends of the fuse holder, fold down the top and squeeze together[as is done with Scotch Lock wiring conectors]fit an appropriate fuse, job done.
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Post by starider on Jul 17, 2020 21:54:27 GMT
Just re-fitted the rear floor and painted wheel arches etc. Next job is to fabricate a new bulk head behind the seats as the original had been butchered. I really must start the rubbing down and priming, but still have a mass of work around the farm. Have just finished 60+ feet of wood fencing across the front of the house. I also have hundreds of metres of ditch's to clean out with the digger and the forestry pond to de-weed,the polytunnel to finish clearing out. Still the lock down has really focussed my efforts into the property.
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Post by starider on Aug 6, 2020 9:37:49 GMT
Hi, not much movement on the van, still working outside, started cutting logs for drying yesterday and the refurbished farm trailer is back in use with the log splitter on the Major working fine.
I have just replaced the HT leads on the van.I bought these off Ebay and are well made,the only problem is they are a little too long. I've been in touch with the seller who replied instantly and said he had got the lengths from a Lucas catalogue. I did offer to send a set of old leads but he feels he will stick with Lucas sizes. The plug leads are at least 6" too long and loop up towards the bonnet. I did point out that he was wasting materials, but that was when he stopped communicating. You can lead a horse to water but you can't make it drink!! Good quality though.
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gromsound
Likes DAFs
Everything Must Work
Posts: 82 
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Post by gromsound on Aug 14, 2020 15:26:57 GMT
super design, you cut the cable in a suitable location, feed each end into the ends of the fuse holder, fold down the top and squeeze together hmmm, just remember that one when you (inevitably over time) run into troubles with that electric fuel pump. Look at that crummy connector first, saves you a lot of searching!
believe me, many many restorers before us have had endless troubles with those snap-to-quick-fit-without-tools-and-skills-half-cutting-the-cable connectors that former owners liked to use for audio installation or bodge repairs... first things you throw out when sanitising a newly aquired project car. personally i think these contraptions should be banned :-(
Reliable electric connections are (i.m.o based on 40 yrs exp) made using (in decreasing order of quality) 1) soldering 2) screwed connectors 3) standard car terminals (spade and counterpart) with the original crimp pliers.
Whrever i can i will solder cables directly together, then insulate with crimp tubing.
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