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Post by triumph66 on Mar 7, 2017 21:44:59 GMT
Tidy work there. Be great to see a video of the engine fired up!
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Post by swissdave on Mar 18, 2017 13:01:14 GMT
I've made some good progress this week, I still have the tensioner pulley mounting to finish when the spacer has come back from cutting to size and a few bits of fuel pipe to sort out but that's about it. The carb has had to be modified to suit being drawn on by the supercharger. All of these downdraught webers use a "power valve" which is a device to make the mixture richer under acceleration, it is the piece between the float with the long spring on it. This is held open by it's spring until high vacuum in the inlet manifold causes it to close, this way the valve is only open when the engine is running if there is an open throttle and low vacuum, not enough to close the power valve. With the added pull from the supercharger there is likely to be a high vacuum in the inlet most if not all of the time and the problem is that this keeps the power valve shut all the time and can cause the engine to run lean at high throttle openings. I needed to make it read vacuum from the inlet plenum after the supercharger as this will give a more realistic vacuum signal to the power valve. Drilling a hole in the side of a new carb is a bit nerve-wracking but went ok, I chose 5mm brass pipe to make the stubs for the hose to connect the carb to the plenum and sealed the original signal hole in the bottom of the carb with s grub screw, everything bonded into place with JB Weld epoxy.
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Post by swissdave on Mar 21, 2017 18:44:31 GMT
The drive belts and tensioners are all sorted at last, next thing is to spin it on the starter and see if it all works ok and no belts fall off. The oil cooler sandwich that fits below the oil filter has now stopped the alternator being adjusted to it's correct position. After a brief search I found that the Renault 5 GT Turbo used a slimmer filter, about 25mm less height and the same thread as my B14 Volvo block which should allow the alternator back where it belongs. The Volvo oil filter, The 5 GTT filter next to it. By the way, the original Daf engine is the same oil filter fitting as the Mk1 Renault 5, if you needed a slim one of those it is equivalent to TJ Filters model no FB5405.
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Post by swissdave on Mar 26, 2017 15:18:03 GMT
Well it runs! I have a strange sump oil leak that I need to investigate and the tensioner pulley for the supercharger belt was chattering on its small mounting spacer and destroyed the belt in about a minute of running. But the engine sounded really sweet, it fired after two pumps on the throttle and about two seconds on the starter and was very smooth. I held it at about 2000 rpm for a minute or so until the belt started jumping as the spacer was moving but considering that the carb is jetted for a 3.0 Ford Capri it was astonishing. Back to re making the tensioner mounting this week and taking the sump back off to fix my oil leak but I hope to drive it next weekend and to find out what I need to fix next. ;-)
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Post by swissdave on Apr 21, 2017 6:56:40 GMT
Well the engine ran again but after a short while it started making a tapping noise and after stopping the engine I discovered oil in the coolant! So it needs to come back apart to investigate but I am taking a break from it over the summer. Video of the second start up.
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Post by swissdave on Jun 24, 2017 13:19:13 GMT
I finally got back out in the garage last night, I have been avoiding it since the last time I posted, except for occasionally piling more boxes and junk on to the poor little car. My irritation with it is back down to a workable level so I now need to find out why it failed. I took the head off to see if I could find the source of the oil in the coolant and to start investigating the knocking noise. The head is held on my 10 long bolts and as I released the tension on them I noticed the head shift slightly on the block to the exhaust side of the engine. I think the supercharger has pulled the head slightly off centre and the knocking sound was protruding crown of no1 piston touching the edge of the combustion chamber in the head. The touch must have been slight, thank goodness it happened when it did and not when driving as I was able to shut it off immediately I heard the noise. Damage is thankfully nothing to worry about, limited to a tiny mark on the head, the shiny bit on the edge; There is also the slightest mark on the piston on the edge of the exhaust valve cutout but I can't get it to show on a photo. I'm hoping the piston hitting the head was enough to cause the head gasket to allow high pressure oil into the coolant, I can't imagine where else in the engine that a leak like this could happen. So I will try another route with the engine, I'm just very relieved that I didn't find anything awful in there.
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Post by jeroen on Jun 24, 2017 13:59:26 GMT
Cant you make the head bolt thicker at the block height (for positioning gasket)and fit tight in the head (for positioning head)
Then you have 3 points of centering 2x bolt and one original bush The top of the liners is less diameter to fit the gasket? Thsnks
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Post by swissdave on Jun 24, 2017 17:46:32 GMT
Hi Jerome. That would help keep the head in position, I agree. The liners are stepped at the top so that a standard head gasket can be used despite the larger diameter pistons.
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Post by jeroen on Jun 24, 2017 18:33:04 GMT
I had 2x turbo camshaft that salvatore at power torque is going to gind for me to fast road Hopefully no brexit for the mainland in coventry
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