spunkymonkey
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Currently waltzing Matilda
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Post by spunkymonkey on Dec 18, 2008 23:15:12 GMT
Ok, Onne, sorry if the pics aren't completely clear but I couldn't find a torch to aim the camera with The throttle cable connects to a 3-way bellcrank sort of thing which has the return spring and a link rod fitted to its other two arms: The other end of the link rod is connected to a plate on the throttle spindle, which also carries a second rod going to the 3-way vacuum valve: The choke cable comes in on the rh side (as yoou look from the front) and is connected to a plate which acts as a cam for the fast idle and the choke flap: When the cable is pulled, the plate rotates anticlockwise (in the photo) around the large bolt. Because this is off-centre, the left side of the plate acts as a cam against the roller on the main throttle plate and opens the throttle to give fast idle. At the same time, the pin near the top moves right-to-left between the fork formed on the choke-flap plate. As is reaches, and starts to push, the left side of the fork it closes the choke flap. By this time, the fast-idle cam has already started to open the throttle, so you always get fast-idle before choke just as you should! The screw you can see in this photo just below the "bare" part of the choke cable is the idle volume screw (nearest you have to a mixture adjustment!). This is the one that should have an initial setting of 2 1/2 turns out from "fully screwed in". Two other small points that I'd forgotten which could easily cause your problems: 1) a vacuum leak (or incorrect piping) in the transmission system. To rule that out, for now, disconnect and plug the main vacuum pipe that goes from the bottom of the carb - just visible above the short control rod in that third photo (mostly hidden by the mounting bracket for the 3-way valve). Disconnect it at the top end and plug it with whatever will fit. 2) The idle cut-off solenoid valve IF YOUR CAR HAS ONE FITTED I believe it was only fitted from about July 1971 onwards, when they made changes for emission control: It's the (out of focus) metal cylinder with a blue wire on it. This MUST have a positive feed to it whenever the ignition is switched on. If it doesn't then the engine won't run. That's what it's there for - to cut the internal fuel flow in the carburettor as soon as the ignition is switched off. If it's feed is faulty then it always thinks the ignition is off and always blocks the fuel flow inside the carb! The other end of its wire should be connected to the 6v +ve terminal on the ignition coil but, to be sure of a feed while testing, you can always jump it straight to battery +ve with a bit of wire. When it's connected, you should get an audible click from it. The valves themselves are pretty reliable but the wiring has a bit of a reputation..... Hope some of that helps track the problem! Joe
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Onne
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Post by Onne on Dec 20, 2008 12:22:13 GMT
I managed to get her running for about 5 minutes today! This was after disconnecting the vacuum hoses and blocking these off. She isn't running smoothly just yet, but I haven't touched any carb settings as yet. The fuel in the tank is a definite no no though, it's gone off, so I'll have to get a jerry can, drain and fill her up with fresh. Also fixed the play in the steering column. Battery is quite flat now though, she will not even turn over
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spunkymonkey
Likes DAFs
Currently waltzing Matilda
Posts: 3,482
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Post by spunkymonkey on Dec 20, 2008 12:43:42 GMT
Well done and, I'd imagine, a bit of a relief for you! 5 mins under her own steam is a definite success and the hardest part done. It's always easier to get a running engine smooth than a non-running one started in the first place
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Onne
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Post by Onne on Dec 20, 2008 15:14:29 GMT
Absolutely.
Still need to work out the vacuum pipes though...
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daf44
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Post by daf44 on Dec 20, 2008 22:46:41 GMT
hi.
onne. just take it one job at a time and you will be up and running before you know it.
keep up the good work.
paul44
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Onne
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Post by Onne on Dec 20, 2008 23:03:07 GMT
My intentions in a nutshell. Just for everyone's info I have so far done: Bought a new battery Exhaust refit (not perfect but good enough for now) Got the engine running (but not on the fuel in the tank) Re-felted the steering column mount Changed one of the original Michelin ZXs tyres for something new (and only 20 pounds including fitting!) Removed washer push as it has disintegrated (anyone got a good one? I have got a spare but that is missing a pipe at the back) to do: Change front sidelight bulb and rear brake/sidelight bulb Fit the lovely vacuum hoses correctly Buy battery charger (around 35 quid for a nice one) Adjust brakes al round. TEST DRIVE I'll try and takes some pictures tomorrow.
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Onne
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Post by Onne on Dec 22, 2008 21:26:22 GMT
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Post by veeruk on Dec 24, 2008 13:04:05 GMT
Aldi are selling them again from the 28th for £12.59. I bought one last year and had no problems with it. I can't find it now, I think I might have left it in one of the DAF's. They charge 6V and 12V batteries. 6V is for motorbikes at 0.8A. Car is 12V 3.5A.
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Onne
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Post by Onne on Dec 26, 2008 22:09:41 GMT
The battery has charged nicely over Christmas and should bring her back into life tomorrow. Need to get a gallon or two of fresh fuel first though..
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Onne
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Post by Onne on Dec 27, 2008 13:55:59 GMT
I got some nice fuel for the DAF this morning, and she now starts up instantly, the vacuum hoses are connected, lights are working, grille is on as is the bumper. Just need to adjust the brakes now, and find someone to give me a hand with the exhaust. I can't seem to seal it on the left cylinder. TO DO list: Adjust brakes Clean contacts on O/R light and N/F light Get the exhaust gas tight Come up with cunning plan to replace washer squirter (or find another one) MOT/tax Enjoy Also she is suffering from a squeaking belt, but only in reverse. Is this normal after a long standstill?
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Onne
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Post by Onne on Dec 27, 2008 22:39:43 GMT
That is good news then She only does it in reverse, so as long as I pull away in first (oops I meant forward I'll be ok I hope to have that exhaust fixed tomorrow, and do the adjustment on the brakes. How hard are these cars to bleed brake wise? I'd like to renew the brakefluid after 2 years of standing. What sort of brakefluid is used? DOT 4 ?
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spunkymonkey
Likes DAFs
Currently waltzing Matilda
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Post by spunkymonkey on Dec 28, 2008 0:40:01 GMT
Betty makes some truly terrifying noises from her belts on the first few reverses of the day. Seeing as where she's parked means that first movement is always backwards, followed by a 3-point turn 100 yards down the road, we just have to get used to it! As John says, they disappear within half a mile or so, but it's always nicer when no-ones about to hear it Brake bleeding isn't a problem from my experience. Start with rear left, then rear right, front left and front right (basically working furthest to nearest to the master cylinder). The only real "gotcha" to look out for is the tiny resevoir - don't risk more than (literally) 2 pumps before topping up or you'll be starting again from scratch! And DOT 4 is fine.
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Onne
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Post by Onne on Dec 28, 2008 14:25:58 GMT
I'll get some of that then Done today: Engine mounts with correct nuts Exhaust fitted up properly (with added Gun Gum exhaust assembly paste) Fixed bonnet release Adjusted the brakes (but haven't yet done a road test) I will now need to refit the wiper switch, and replace the manual washer with an electrical item, unless I can find another one. So a good day today
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stefan
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If it isn't broken fix it till it is
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Post by stefan on Dec 28, 2008 16:42:52 GMT
You are moving along nicely now it starts. you will be round at my house in it in no time
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Onne
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Post by Onne on Dec 28, 2008 22:07:28 GMT
That's the plan
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daf44
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Post by daf44 on Dec 29, 2008 23:14:49 GMT
hi.
i was always told that dot 3 and dot 4 could be changed and mixed the same way you would with 10/40 and 20/50 engine oils with no problems. obviously the correct one would be ideal but i have never come across any problems from mixing dot 3/4 brake fluids, or 10/40 20/50 engine oils.
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Onne
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Post by Onne on Dec 30, 2008 17:45:01 GMT
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Onne
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Post by Onne on Dec 30, 2008 17:52:10 GMT
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Onne
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Post by Onne on Dec 30, 2008 17:53:44 GMT
Forgot this one:
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Post by Richard DAF Webmeister on Dec 30, 2008 23:06:06 GMT
Aha... More YouTube DAF footage. Coool!
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Onne
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Post by Onne on Jan 1, 2009 0:33:50 GMT
Could I please have some honest opnions on how she is running now you have all heard her run ? Happy New Year to all! To a rust free 2009!
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spunkymonkey
Likes DAFs
Currently waltzing Matilda
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Post by spunkymonkey on Jan 1, 2009 0:41:53 GMT
Haven't heard her yet, Onne, cos Youtube and our connection don't get on too well. Only works if no-one's doing anything else on our network at the time - 3 people (with the teenager home) on a 56k connection isn't the best for video Will try to get there when Sian takes the teenager out next but if it's sounding fairly even it won't be far off
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Onne
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Post by Onne on Jan 1, 2009 0:57:33 GMT
I'm spoilt with my connection... But rough running won't stop me getting an MOT
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Post by veeruk on Jan 1, 2009 7:30:57 GMT
Hi Onne. What I can hear on Youtube sounds just like mine. Sounds on recorders and camera's always sound different, but in my opinion she sounds pretty normal. You have done a great job so far with Isabel. I need to work on mine but it's way too cold. When I worked on cars as a mechanic, the cold never bothered me, but since I changed jobs I hate lying under a car when it is cold. Keep up the good work. Gelukkig Nieuwjaar ;D
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Onne
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Post by Onne on Jan 1, 2009 11:48:50 GMT
Dank u I'll see if I can get the idle down a bit and have some more driving today It's very cold here, so I'd better wrap up warmly!
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Onne
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Post by Onne on Jan 4, 2009 16:37:06 GMT
I had some great help today from Dafdaffer Paul and Stefan.
Found out that my brake system is not exactly up to scratch (in other words knackered) Got some new (shiny!) braided brake hoses for the front, all I need now is a set of shoes and the wheel cylinders
I have heard that Mini (rear?) ones fit, but what year, does the same apply to the shoes?
I'll try and get some more photo's on here tomorrow.
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spunkymonkey
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Currently waltzing Matilda
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Post by spunkymonkey on Jan 4, 2009 18:51:17 GMT
Shoes and cylinders are the same as early mini - technically Daf front cylinders should be the really be bigger than 3/4 inch but the 3/4s work fine - the bigger ones (I think 15/16") are still available but they cost about £45 each so I gave them a miss! Got an axle set for mine from www.ocoop.com/mini-parts-brakes.htmand their part numbers are: Product ID: GWC1102 Product Name: Rear Wheel Cylinder (Late) LW11396 Unit Price: £6.50 -------------------------- Product ID: GBS834AF Product Name: Rear brake shoe set (& early front) Unit Price: £7.50
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Onne
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Post by Onne on Jan 4, 2009 22:22:19 GMT
Excellente, Gracias señor
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Onne
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Post by Onne on Jan 4, 2009 23:20:23 GMT
Has anyone else (with a 33) got two rings dangling underneath the front cross member? Paul noticed this today: (Photo courtesy of John "The Bear")
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Onne
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Post by Onne on Jan 4, 2009 23:24:16 GMT
I will get some tomorrow I'll not tell it's for a DAF though, they'd charge more I am still Dutch
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