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Post by Richard DAF Webmeister on Jan 11, 2009 17:08:22 GMT
Yes, rather like its current owner, it didn't doesn't get out much.
Looking at its history, the last 3 or 4 years has seen it average about 900 miles between MoTs. It had had one previous owner from 6 months old (prior to that it had been a dealer's demonstrater) and I think it lived on a farm, so must have been kept in a barn/under cover.
It is just coming up to 50,000 miles in total.
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Onne
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Post by Onne on Jan 11, 2009 21:56:15 GMT
Looks scary to me... I'd better get some beers
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Onne
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Post by Onne on Jan 12, 2009 18:58:00 GMT
Her goes yet another query: Ever since I have tightened up the belts there is a grinding noise, but only when coming to a halt and pulling away slowly. Would that just be the corrosion on the secondary unit? Now for some pictures of the Variomatic: Excuse the quality of the photo's, it's not easy when the car is parked in here:
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Jan 12, 2009 20:54:09 GMT
It could well be, Onne. Betty does the same on the first move of the day but clears up after that. Her secondaries are a little cleaner than yours but certainly not factory-fresh!
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Onne
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Post by Onne on Jan 12, 2009 22:29:21 GMT
I have only done about 30 miles since the tightening of the belts, so I'll see how it goes.
I did have a feel of the belts, and they still seem fairly slack... I might see if I can persuade a local garage to lift her up on the ramps.
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Onne
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Post by Onne on Jan 13, 2009 7:32:50 GMT
What tools should I use for this job?
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Onne
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Post by Onne on Jan 13, 2009 22:43:29 GMT
No intention the repeat the factory tests I will have to have a look at all that at the weekend. Morris Minor day tomorrow, don't want her to feel neglected! (and she has a heater and choke cable that work)
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Post by jeremy on Jan 15, 2009 22:24:38 GMT
I used sandpaper with good results. Then I had to take out the secondary (see my thread on rust on the primaries) and where the rust pitting was severe, I filled it with epoxy adhesive (araldite) which gives a nice smooth surface. This is a trick used on Land Rover swivels. It's not practical to do this with the pulleys in the car as the stuff runs unless you turn the car on its side! Jeremy.
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Onne
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Post by Onne on Jan 15, 2009 22:40:27 GMT
I will see what I can do at the weekend.
I will use the car again tomorrow (if the weather is ok) and see how it goes. I am tempted to use only the DAF for all of next week to see what fuel economy I get. The Minor swallowed up 20,3 litres today, mileage 114393 (I really must try to fill that car up a bit sooner... only have 22.6 litre capacity!)
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Onne
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Post by Onne on Jan 17, 2009 18:01:21 GMT
Just to make it easier for everyone to get to sleep tonight, I filled the DAF up with fuel today:
09/01/09 MOT passed ODO 19441 17 litres (7/8s full) 10/01/09 Brassington meet ODO 19526 14 litres (full) about 37 mpg 17/01/09 Three days to work and back and a trip into Derbyshire ODO 19653 22.5 litres about 25 mpg (127 miles, 4,96 gallons) (Just for John The Bear 20.8 MPG (US))
Ouch...
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stefan
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Post by stefan on Jan 17, 2009 20:52:41 GMT
Thats quite bad mate.
I got the rest of the concrete down thanks for your help. Now its all being rained on as the tarp will not stay on in the wind, how pants is that.
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Onne
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Post by Onne on Jan 17, 2009 21:07:42 GMT
We can only hope for the best... We should have kept some of those bricks out...
I was quite shocked at the MPG. My Minor has never gone that low. I do have to admit that she has done a lot of stop, start, full throttle up very slight inclines because she has only 32 bhp.
I was quite amazed how much she hates hills today, going up a long hill ( only 1% / 2% incline) and dropping back from cruising at around 60 mph to full throttle doing only just 45 mph! You must be getting bored with me compating her to my Minor, but she flies up that hill!
For your information: DAF 33 has 48 bhp per (metric) tonne (32 bhp/660kg) My Minor has 63 bhp per (metric) tonne (48 bhp/762 kg)
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daf44
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Post by daf44 on Jan 17, 2009 22:58:35 GMT
hi.
the car needs a good tune up or something.
should be getting mid 30s to the gallon at least.
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Onne
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Post by Onne on Jan 18, 2009 9:54:35 GMT
My thoughts in a nutshell.
Is there a way of checking the static timing or will I need a strobe light?
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Post by howard on Jan 18, 2009 11:30:09 GMT
Onne,
I drove Isabel down from Lytham St Annes to Bristol (200-odd miles) and seemed to get good performance and good MPG too. I can't remember exactly how much it used, but not a lot! Presumably you fixed this petrol leak you had from the carb???! Bit of a worry that you get figures so low - my dad used to put a fiver's worth of fuel in about every month when he was using his - but then again, he only used to go to the shops and to see friends so he wasn't hammering it on the motorways. His 33 was also the best at climbing hills of any I have been in (it also did 90mph on the motorway too) so maybe it was a freak and not the norm! I'd better get that engine back in as soon as possible!
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Onne
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Post by Onne on Jan 18, 2009 11:59:07 GMT
I'll have a play with the timing this afternoon, and check that all is well.
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Onne
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Post by Onne on Jan 18, 2009 12:07:25 GMT
And without wanting to put fuel on the fire (as the DAF has used it...) the 25 mpg was on a full tank of 98 with lead additives (which include an octane booster)
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Onne
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Post by Onne on Jan 18, 2009 14:44:18 GMT
The misery continues... I'm nearly starting to lose my patience Also noticed a peculiar thing, cylinder no1 (the left one) gets a lot hotter than number 2, as far as that I can put my hand on the exhaust on 2, but instantly burnt my finger when touching no 1 Is this a standard fitment: In my limited knowledge I would say that no 1 is running to lean, or no 2 too rich. All this was after about 5 minutes stationary running, with the choke fully in.
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Jan 18, 2009 15:46:22 GMT
For what it's worth, Onne, Betty's engine mount on the driver's side is the same. When the engine comes out it'll be getting the superglue treatment - really is good for stiking rubber. Remember the old advert when it came out with some guy hanging from a piece of rubber glued with it? That worked becasue it glues rubber better than just about anything else. Seeing as it's the bonding to the plate that's giving up, there should be no flex at that point to give it problems.
The rubber bit on the inlet manifold is either standard fit, or the same person "cowboyed" both our cars, so I wouldn't worry too much about it. Having said that, Betty is running a little lean on that side (driver's side) cylinder. Perfect plug colour on the other but a bit white on that one. Could point to a small air leak at that joint.
If your exhause it actually cool enough to touch, though, I'd be wondering if you're firing reliably (or even at all) on that cylinder - that would definately explain lumpy idle and poor fuel consumption so is well worth investigating plugs / leads / dizzy cap for signs of tracking. Bear in mind that just getting a spark on a "loose" plug is no guarantee that you'll still get one at running pressures!
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Onne
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Post by Onne on Jan 18, 2009 16:20:44 GMT
I'll see if I can glue it back together then. And have a look at the plugs.
Paul did mention his dislike to my silicon HT leads, what shall I replace these with?
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Post by howard on Jan 18, 2009 18:49:38 GMT
Bits of wet string Onne, is that the REPLACEMENT engine mount that split? It looks like the same side to the one that was replaced?
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Onne
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Post by Onne on Jan 18, 2009 23:18:24 GMT
Howard, I think it is the other side, didn't you replace the passenger side? The other side is still ok, but is starting as well, but that is starting from underneath. I'll see what kind of spark plugs I have in her, I'll replace them anyway I do hope the quality of the new rubber parts is better than the ones provided for Morris Minors. Those are of questionable quality, almost as bad as the new 6 week chrome (that is when the pitting started on my bonnet hinge) I'll be taking the Morris to work tomorrow, that is for sure!
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Onne
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Post by Onne on Jan 20, 2009 22:28:02 GMT
I have an additional problem now... the fuel pump has partially given up on the Minor.
Could I still use the DAF? Is there anything I can do to temporarily fix the rubber until I get a mortgage for some new ones?
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daf44
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Post by daf44 on Jan 20, 2009 23:07:56 GMT
hi.
one temporary repair I used on beetle engine mounts was to take of the mount,grind off one of the studs on each plate so you can drill a hole right trhough the lot (rubber as well) and put a length of threaded bar right through. bolt the whole lot in place and tighten up the nuts on the threaded bar to hold the rubber tight between the plates. it will be slightly stiffer than before but not excessively so. it also will not fall apart.
may be worth a try.
paul44.
ps if the diaphragm is okay on the minor pump, get two one way fuel valves from a motor factors for a few quid each, and fit them within an inch of the pump, one on the pipe in, and one on the pipe out. these will then do the job of the valves in the pump. cheap and easy repair, can be done very quickly, and works on any pump (electric or mechanical) as long as the diaphragm is ok. the valves must be as close to the pump as possible but this does work very well.
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Onne
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Post by Onne on Jan 20, 2009 23:27:58 GMT
It's the points in the pump that are giving up I think.
I can drive her, but she stutters a lot when driving. I had the RAC out, but it wasn't electrical according to the man ( as in spark side) He has a special inline thingie to check for spark, very neat!
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daf44
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Post by daf44 on Jan 20, 2009 23:59:32 GMT
hi.
points for su pumps on ebay. £4.99 for single contact. £6.50 for double. this includes postage. strip and clean them before buying new. takes about 30 mins. you need to know if they are single or double anyway.
paul44
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daf44
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Post by daf44 on Jan 21, 2009 0:06:03 GMT
hi again.
those "inline spark thingies" will only tell you if power is being sent to the plug. they do not normally tell you if there is actually a spark going across the gap, or how good it is. swap the plugs and left to right first. run the car and see which side warms up. then change the leads from right to left (mine will do this). if the right side stays cooler instead of the left you know where the problem is.
good luck
paul44
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Onne
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Post by Onne on Jan 21, 2009 0:14:12 GMT
The inline spark thingie was on the mog Which ran fine before, and does good MPG. I'll have a play tomorrow (or get a lift into work)
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Jan 21, 2009 0:31:09 GMT
It's the points in the pump that are giving up I think. I can drive her, but she stutters a lot when driving. I had the RAC out, but it wasn't electrical according to the man ( as in spark side) He has a special inline thingie to check for spark, very neat! Okies. This is an awful lot easier with the engine in front of you, and with a few tools. A vacuum / low pressure gauge in particular would be useful - but no worries if you haven't got one. Put one on your wishlist, though, they're a godsend First things first - inline spark testers generally only show that there's a spark voltage being sent to the plug. They can't tell what's happening to it when it gets there. For example, a plug with a cracked insulator could be sparking inside the metal body - it's still a spark, so it's still shows as ok. The best way to tackle anything like this is to start at the absolute basics. With the Dafs, the first part of that is to disconnect and seal the vacuum feed from the manifold to the transmission system. Don't just take the pipe off at the valve and plug it - remove it completely so you can check its condition, then refit it to the engine and plug the open end. Also, remove the vacuum feed pipe from the distributor and plug that as well. You now have an engine that has nowhere to draw air except the carb and any leaks in the manifold or its joints. If you've got a vac / low pressure gauge then check the fuel pump by connecting it to the pipe between the pump and the carb using a t-piece. Start the engine, and you should read between 1 and 2 psi fuel pressure. If you haven't got a pressure gauge (yet) then disconnect the pipe at the carb and direct it into a jar. Crank the engine and you should see steady pulses of fuel. Not sure of the delivery rate on these engines, but 60 mph at 25 mpg uses about 30ml (6 teasthingys) of fuel in 10 seconds, so anything over that at cranking speed is plenty! Reconnect the fuel line. Pull both plugs and make sure they're clean and gapped properly. Check the colours of the insulator noses. If she's been running happily they should be a light brownish colour. Clean white means running weak, black and sooty means running rich. You may find that they don't match each other. If you don't know their history (as in, they came with the car) then get to a local motor factors (NOT Halfords!!!) and get a pair of new ones. Gap should be 32 thou (0.8mm). That's the low end of the quoted range, which will give a more reliable spark at speed. Replace the plugs and turn your attention to the distributor. The basics here are to make sure that the points are clean and correctly gapped, and that the timing is set correctly. Points gap is 0.016 to 0.020 thou (0.4 - 0.5 mm) and timing on yours should be 4 degrees BTDC. Check the aircleaner element. If you have any doubt about its condition, either replace it (part numbers in the Parts forum - mine cost a whole £4.72 inc vat from my local factors). If it looks iffy and you can't get hold of one right now then remove it for the next bit. A badly clogged aircleaner can really mess up carb settings and a few minutes of running without won't matter - especially in damp weather when there's not much dust around! Start her, let her get warm (about 10 mins) and, if there are no actual faults (leaking joints / distributor faults etc) you should be able to adjust the carb to get a pretty stable idle. If all seems well then reconnect the vacuum to the transmission and the distributor and road test. If you can't get a good idle then you need to start looking for faults. Remembering back to the plugs - if the driver's side was running weaker than the other then that rubber joint in the manifold should be investigated for splits / cracks etc. If possible (not sure how easy it'll come off) remove it to inspect - that way you can flex it and see if there are any "hidden" cracks. Any air leaks there will affect that cylinder much more than the other. They would also explain a lot of your other symptoms, but it's best to be absolutely sure the basic setup is right before looking for that sort of thing. Trust me, I've run myself in a lot of circles in the past by not bothering with the basics If all shows up ok with that then your next step is to start looking at the distributor, but that can be the next installment if needed ;D
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spunkymonkey
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Post by spunkymonkey on Jan 21, 2009 0:39:17 GMT
Sod it! Just typed all that, then saw that the latest problem is with the moggie, not Isabel ;D
Still, the same approach applies for tracing Isabel's problems.....
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